Depends on how big your cage is, if you can weld or know someone who can its not too hard to make one yourself thats what I will be doing with my car, just make a dummy pipe for the bends and take the tube somewhere to get bent then go for your life, also depends on how much you take out of the car as to how much extra it might add, one of my mates built a VK commodore track car striped down the whole shell and removed every unnecessary item/thing got it down to 1100kg with 49/51 weight distribution, in an old commodore with a fairly comprehensive cage.

i should be able to re-weigh my car when the cage goes in, we're halfway there.

just gotta organise seats and steering and pedal box before we can finish the front half, so give me 6 months :P and ill have it back on the scales to see just how much i put into it. gonna be a bit of a jungle gym so should be a good idea of the most a cage will weigh in a street car. basic run down, 6 point, double cross in main hoop with bar behind for harnesses, back stays tied together at base and back to the main hoop, triangulated roof and possible double bracing back stays, depending on how it all looks when we get to finishing touches, front legs tied to strut towers and strut towers tied together. everything gusseted and where possible corners braced with more tube. I'm imagining 50kg minimum.

small price to pay after twisting the last chassis...

My car with full fluids weighs 960kg and most of my interior is stripped

 

Its far too light as it is, scares me now and then

 

power to weight is awesome

mine with the 1g full fuel and spare tyre, steel rims, no coolant or oil but diff and box with oil weighed 989, by the time we have piping etc would be around 1010 i reckon, then gotta add cage. and i wanna keep it sub 1000kg, ill be getting the hole saw out if i have to, you are right carlos, power to weight FTW :)

what are we looking at in terms of original factory weight of a ke70?

920 kerb weight for a standard ke70. mines a TE72 and weighed a bit more than that

Hey, just a question to those people who have got a cage in their ke70/ae71. Is it actually a noticeable change in chassis rigidity?

Because they are already such a light car i wouldn't have thought there would be much movement there??

Someone on here will know, I am currently waiting a couple of months to see if my contract at work is renewed then I will be undergoing a 1UZ conversion on my T18. Just going to strip the shell bare then cut out any metal not needed that is not structural and put in a full cage tied to front struts, side intrusion bars, ect, ect. Still hoping to get it to around 800KG but would be happy with 900, might be cutting out the rear floor pan and make up a new one with a fuel cell.

Getting it so light I can keep the 1uz pretty much standard and still have plenty of power for the weight of the car.

Someone on here will know, I am currently waiting a couple of months to see if my contract at work is renewed then I will be undergoing a 1UZ conversion on my T18. Just going to strip the shell bare then cut out any metal not needed that is not structural and put in a full cage tied to front struts, side intrusion bars, ect, ect. Still hoping to get it to around 800KG but would be happy with 900, might be cutting out the rear floor pan and make up a new one with a fuel cell.

Getting it so light I can keep the 1uz pretty much standard and still have plenty of power for the weight of the car.

with a 1UZ you won't get anywhere near 800kg. Budget closer to 1000.

 

Stripped, caged partly lightened k motored KE25: 842 kg with 10 litres of fuel

 

Stripped, big cage KE35/55, 2TG, T diff: 940kg

 

Cage tubing is surprisingly heavy.

 

Use the right stuff, CDS is the stuff these days, and it's dear.

 

If you don't know what you're doing, pay someone.

 

I used to build them, and I still pay someone to do it.

Ah ok, well thats alright how much does a VK commodore weigh from the factory? Mate from work has built multiple cages for commodores not perfect but not far from it. Planing on running W57/8 and G series hilux diff. I will be striping the whole car back to metal inside and out, doing everything properly, only once (hopefully, haha)

You just have to make sure you use the right material. Otherwise you're just filling up your car with bits of useless metal. And get it as close to the sides and roof as you can. I have trouble fitting a feeler guage between the b pillar and the cage on my 25.

 

Oh, and say "Hi!" to your Dad for me. :)

seamless steel is what you want.

as mr dwarf says, its quite heavy that stuff, i think i budgeted 21 lineal for my cage but may not use quite that much.

 

in terms of chassis strength, theyre a flimsy old car, i sprung the join on the chassis rail on my old one with the 1g and some sticky tyres going around corners, which is what I'm trying to avoid with the cage in this car. and a squashed head when i put it on its lid :D

don't they use cro moly or what ever the stuff is called? when they reallly wanna keep the weight down, i can imagine what that would cost :blinks:

I have a chrome moly cage in the Subaru.

 

I'm thinking of pulling it out, as the cage is 15 years old. CrMo cages don't "last", and old cages have been known to fail.

 

Cold drawn seamless is the go.

Haha, ye he told me a while ago he saw you. Will see at the end of the year if the project goes ahead.