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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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keep up the good work Matt. :y: :y:

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  • altezzaclub
    altezzaclub

    In 16 years time... "The Girl's AE86"

  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    This is really really cool, thanks for sharing!   So 2.4 capacity, as light as a 4ag. Cheap as to buy. :hmm:   What are the factory powers numbers for the model you are using?

  • actually the second strongest method of clamping a crank is level with the edge of the block like that, pending how much metal is on the other side, have a look at a deisel or an F20C, they have a spl

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  • Author

You bet!

 

I purchased some clear hose and some fittings today to hook up my catch can. Its going in sideways on the passenger side. Once I get an air box it can be deleted as it will just plumb into that, but for now I need something to connect the top cover to. I'm going to have a drain tap in the car so no need to unbolt it to clean it out if it gets any oil inside. I prefer clear hoses so you can see what's being expelled and get an idea what's happening without opening up the can to see.

  • Author

Dropped the spare diff off for the spacers to be made today.

 

Will have em sometime next week.

 

Charging my laptop today and will install the Adaptronic USB Driver, and maybe even upgrade the OS as well then Ill install Wari 14 to talk to the ecu, then I can look at loading up the map and confirming all the outputs and settings.

 

I'm tempted to crawl under there and connect the reverse lights so I can get the rwc all completed on Tuesday. Should be the only thing stopping it from passing so I better get it done.

 

Not a big job but I have to fit some new shockys to my work ute today as well. I hope the rain ʞ©$ɟs off. Just cheesy Monroe GTs but should be fine for the stock truck. Darn thing also needs a timing belt and tyres all at the same time. That's going to be another 1300 for both.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

I fitted the catch can system today and I filled it with oil again. I may cry if it leaks. I'm pretty stoked with the catch can. Its stainless.

 

Drain:

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<a href="http://s206.photobucket.com/user/mjbogan/media/20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb235/mjbogan/20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg"/></a>

  • Author

Yes I read the NCOP about 7 years ago before it was implemented and banked on it coming through at some point during the build, and it did, thank ʞ©$ɟ!

 

For those playing at home I've spend about 26,597.50 according to my spreadsheet with another grand or so to go on rego, diff adapters and dyno tuning.

 

8fcec505-f38e-46ae-a270-fbab1f20c318_zpsu6ff7stc.jpg

Nice, go for a drive and enjoy it :) . Just examining the pricetag, could you share what were the several largest expenses in the build?

Jes

  • Author

Wheels are the single most expensive thing I bought. Ecu. Diff Building and components. That was lots of small things that adds up or maybe the car as a whole to begin with was the biggest thing. Fabrication didn't cost much because of knowing great people and having great friends, the Manifold added up to over $650 in expenses, that was the single most expensive fabrication endeavour. Oh the headers and exhaust were all custom as well. They were up there in price but not a lot for what they are.

Any update? Ive been checking here everday and I think this is the longest time we've heard nothing :) , whens the dynotune happening?

Hope everything is going well,

Jes

  • Author

Not driveable or dynoable yet.

 

It needs these adapters fitted which I've just collected from the machinist.They adapt and locate the control arm bushes to suit the larger mx diff brackets. Been a bit of a thorn in my side, in truth Ive had em made twice but the fabricator lost em once after I gave them to him. If you want it done right...

20150722_131744_zpsqsgked9y.jpg

 

So once they go in it, I've got a final brake bleed to do. Then I've got to put power to the wideband and calibrate.

Then prime the fuel system and surge tank. Then load up the map with the laptop and make any changes to get the idle control, purge solenoid, tacho and whatever else we messed with to function.

 

Once that's done I can try to start it and get it drive able. Once driving its going to become pretty annoying pretty fast that my rear wheels are poking out of my arches. I need probably to borrow some 15x7 between Zero to plus 10 offset so I can actually drive it without a flare kit.

 

Once it runs Ill send it for dyno tuning, but on the way it will need to be dropped at the exhaust shop to fit the pipes as they need a tiny adjustment to bolt on now after working on the headers.

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