Iroken - yeah I'd like to stitch it up instead of fully seam welding. I'll brush all the overlaps with seam sealer before I spray the under body shutz (the textured rubber coating most cars under carriage).

I also went and got my hilux diff I'll try and use plus a ke30 front suspension setup. Now I only need a ke70 rack and column (anyone knows where one is can they let me know)

I was worried my brakes and coilover kit wouldnt fit onto the later model stuff but everything does :) I need to change the inner wheel bearing because the spindle was 2mm bigger in diameter. These luckily came with the kit when I bought it. Secondly I had to shave the length of one bolt down a couple of mm as it fowled with the strut because of the two bolt steering arm compared to the 3 bolt ke10 item.

nice conversion, a blacktop Beams wd a 6speed tranny would really rock your world. :yes:

Yeah this has been very helpful for me. A beams conversion is nothing but a pipe dream for me now. But I can get much satisfaction from watching your progress. Cheers

Cheers guys :) I am currently in Thailand until the 22nd so I'll have some more progress soon. Hopefully have the front end sorted early in the new year :) then onto the body and diff.

Well time for an update. I know its long over due but things have been hectic busy at my house so progress is sporadic and slow :(

 

The front end is coming along slowly with a few hiccups along the way. I bit the bullet and swapped to AE86 struts from the KE30 ones as I can use a shorter shock which has allowed me to lower th car to the desired height with enough travel left in the shock for proper operation.

 

I also had to swap my crossmember for a KE20 one, this gave me two advantages:

1) I don't have to use adapter mounts for the LCA's

2) I have enough room behind the crossmember to mount the KE70 rack and pinion.

 

Along with the change to the KE20 crossmember I have installed KE20 castor mounts and used KE30 castor rods with the thread machined down to the KE20 thread size to make it all fit.

I have also purchased a PWR radiator core that fits nicely inside the original radiator opening (just have to cut he end tank plates and get it all welded up).

A mate of mine has started to wire the ECU in and tidied up the engine wiring loom nicely, everything runs up and under the rocker cover then through the firewall behind the head :)

My only issue now is getting enough camber into the front end while getting a reasonable size wheel and tyre under the guard. Going with the 5 stud pattern has thrown up its share of problems with not alot of rim sizes in the offset I require. Due to the hopper stoppers brake kit I have to have 15" rims, if I had of gone the same route as Jordain (building the same car/engine combo as me here on rollaclub) I would be able to use 14" and would have way more options in rim combo's because of the 4 stud pattern from the AE86.

 

Back to the camber problem, with the camber tops fully adjusted inwards I'm still a 0 deg camber. If I use KE20 LCA's then the wheel track will be wider again and the stub axle will stick right out from the guard. I still have around 15mm before my top spring perch touches the inner of the strut tower. So theoretically I could gain a couple of degrees more camber if I could get the top of the strut inboard some more.

 

My question is does anyone have any suggestions about how to gain more camber from my setup???

mate jump on technotoytuning.com and check out ae86 adjustble lca's

Edited April 2, 201214 yr by ro11in#22

Nice build, Will keep an eye on this thread :)

ro11in#22, thanks for the link. They look interesting and could possibly be useful down the track. I can't use them now as NSW RTA regs state that all suspension components must be rubber mounted to insulate against shock loading into the chassis. After the engineering is sorted then they will probably make their way into my car :)

Okay so cambertops are no good if they're wound all the way in (adjusting from the top)

 

You'll gain more track with lca's (adjusting from the bottom)

 

Have you looked into getting the stub axles bent? This will angle the stub axle upwards thus the brakes and hubs will be angled and the wheels cambered.

 

This wouldn't have a real effect on track as it's still sitting the same, just your wheels will sit in further at the top

 

Can do you a photo if you're unable to figure out what i mean (Wouldn't be suprised) :P

Jono.C yeah I've spoken with Jordain about this to great length but not sure hwere to get it done properly and for a reasonable price. I see your in Tasmania, would you know of anyone in NSW by any chance. Also have you done this before with any luck????

Not personally, A friend had them in his ke30 sedan with no issue's, You shouldn't have too much trouble getting it done, most suspension or engineering places could do it for you

Look put it this way.... Cambertops wound all the way in, machined to wind in even more... My coilover is hard against the Strut Tower.... Can't move it anymore unless we cut it out, but I honestly can't be F*#ked to do any more chopping and welding on this car! I have an adjustable LCA.... adjusted to 310mm.... perfect fitment at the bottum.... if only the top would pull in.

 

The only way to get more camber.... is a longer control arm, but since Luke and I both would like to keep stock guards.... won't happen. Okay... 5" rim.. well 5" rim with a 165 tyre pushing around a track or street at 150k's..... not happening if I'm driving it.

 

I got a 7" rim and a 6.5" rim with +13 offset which is perfect for my set up. A 195/45 tyre sits square.... although still i'm about 20mm out. Only alternative is a set of custom made ae86 struts or RA64/something celica that gives -2 more camber than an ae86 strut standard... although the 52mm strut dia is perfect for us as we can get a TRD blue shock and many more adjustable shockies.

 

 

As we see... front pokes just a tiny bit... its only 20mm...

 

Only alternative is to

 

1) make a Jigg and Bend the struts like they use to do in Bathurst...

2) get an ae86 strut, chop the strut tube completly off, mill the cast stub at the bottom on an angle... weld new 52mm 4mm wall thickenss tubes into the cast stub..... then brace it all up for extra strength.

3) Heat it and bend it but the metal would stretch and become a mess... don't recomened that haha

 

I have spoken with K-Mac suspension today and they have told me that their camber tops are far more adjustable than standard 'slide' style tops. They assured me that compared to other competitors camber plates I should be able to get another 2 degrees of neg camber. The only drama is they are fair bloody expensive!!!!!

 

K-MAC Camber Top

Slide Style Camber Top

 

Question - Has anybody out there had any experience with these K-MAC camber tops and do they give that extra adjustment compared to 'slide' style???

Hi there.

 

I'm new on this forum. I so dig your setup, I'm currently doing the same setup but not going the extreme.

 

I'm down in South Africa and parts for the motor here are really scarce, do you perhaps no which company stocks the intake vvt solenoid?