used the stock timing marks and found it was still 3 teeth out

 

 

 

 

WTF! That's a worry! Probably end up with less power than stock!

 

 

WTF! That's a worry! Probably end up with less power than stock!

 

 

thats why my old cam ran out of puff at 5000rpm. but I'm sure i used the correct timing marks. check it with the dial indicator and data card. was way off. moved 2 teeth and recheck. still wasnt perfect. jumped another and was spot on!

Where did the battery end up? Stock place, other side or inside?

 

Do you reckon Toowooba's altitude will affect things like cams, jetting, timing???

 

 

hi mate,

the battery is in a box, behind the passenger seat, currently.

and id guess the altitude might affect things, certainly, but not in a noticeable way, for me. as I'm not 'fine tuning' it that much at this stage.

i used a dial indicator and a camshaft degreeing kit to dial my cam into day.

 

used the stock timing marks and found it was still 3 teeth out (or 60 degrees)!?!

thats what I'm concerned about mate.

will borrow a mate's from up here and check it out when its ready to go together.

getting a set of crow double row valve springs from 'Wogboy' at parts for cars for $120, too, now.

so it looks like I'm a tidy up the ports, valve seat grind, at the same time.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRICKFLOW-CAM-DEGREEING-KIT-INC-DIAL-INDICATOR-STAND-PISTON-STOP-ETC-TFS-90000-/180730073446?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a145a1166

 

is what i bought. good price aswell

damn nice mate..!

I'll have to get one when i get finincial

 

and this is the timing chain I'm getting, has 2 degree increments for adjustability.

will still use a wheel also.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180697696081&ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:AU:1123

About time those rollmasters came back on the market. I was going to get one early last year

yeah mate :-)

 

and i put a post up in the mechanical section, but i might place here too, in the hopes of more exposure.

 

I'd love some advice before i buy the wrong HD clutch kit.

i have read all the guides i can on here, and they all seem to say that a 5k clutch is 200mm in diameter, and 4k is 180mm.

now, i measured up mine and its 180 mm diameter, and its def. a 5k engine.

so, i assume previous owner/s has put 3,4k clutch on it, and i get the 200 mm clutch kit regardless?

or do i order the 180mm?

any help appreciated

the old timing chain i was talking about. no marks on either side of the chain, as discussed earlier

 

the flywheel as it was, at 7.95kgs, right b4 i took it to be lightened

inside the bellhousing, prior to clean(also the reason i decided to order a new clutch)

lifted the carpet to remove the shifter, and saw this...

more to come

picked up the clutch today from parts4cars in toowoomba, for 82 bucks

 

now, with many thanks to Rob(Towe) and Luke(Ae82something, lol),

i am going the 5k solid lifter conversion.

ordered 3F lifters for $5.50 each, running 4k pushrods and rocker gear and should be sweet

much like posted here:

http://www.rollaclub...ter-conversion/

Edited October 3, 201115 yr by nerfbat

Heh looks like a real hack job on the shifter hole to fit the ke70 box.

Someone else might know more but to me that cam wheel isn't right either.

I also thought the 5k came with a double row chain not a single

Someone else might know more but to me that cam wheel isn't right either.

I also thought the 5k came with a double row chain not a single

 

nope... single. It is the right cam gear. If you can look through the glare on that image you can see the little hole. That is the time mark. There is one on the crank gear as well. Both holes should be aligned with chain at TDC.

nope... single. It is the right cam gear. If you can look through the glare on that image you can see the little hole. That is the time mark. There is one on the crank gear as well. Both holes should be aligned with chain at TDC.

i see the notches on both gears mate, but there are no 'shiny' or marked links on the chain to work off?

so i assume the chain is 'wrong'? or it just isnt there?

all the books i have on these, suggest the chains have a shiny or marked link, top and bottom to line up with the notches on the gear.

correct me if I'm wrong

i see the notches on both gears mate, but there are no 'shiny' or marked links on the chain to work off?

so i assume the chain is 'wrong'? or it just isnt there?

all the books i have on these, suggest the chains have a shiny or marked link, top and bottom to line up with the notches on the gear.

correct me if I'm wrong

 

like these shiny links to line up with the notches?

there are nothing like that on the old chain, only a 'join'