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Project Ke70


zeph_KE70

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Cleaned the wheel arches spotless, and there was so much dirt and grime on the rear shock, after a good cleaning, it was actually blue :blinks:

 

Uploading more photos tonight.

 

Good work mate, Looks like a good clean base! Keep scrubbing you'll be suprised how much actual paint is under the dirt/grime. If you have a gurney and some carstands, on the level ground steam clean the undercarriage. Youll be amazed and cleaning bug will kick in :y:

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Beaver panel is a piece of piss, few bolts. Nothing major.

You could probably pick up a good one for $20 bucks.

Pretty sure you can take it off without taking off the bumper, only time ive taken it off the bumper has been off so not 100%

 

EDIT : Didnt notice you had a slanty. Pretty sure its all the same.

 

THat's not the beaver panel btw.

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Correct Spencer, That is the more or less the front beam which links both front chassis rails (Which is covered by the beaverpanel) Take off the front bumper, headlights, grille and beaverpanel so there is plenty of room to play with and clean it up. If you have a welder have a go at welding it up first and painting it black. Bog will only make it pretty but not as strong:y:

Edited by Ben-89
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Correct Spencer, That is the more or less the front beam which links both front chassis rails (Which is covered by the beaverpanel) Take off the front bumper, headlights, grille and beaverpanel so there is plenty of room to play with and clean it up. If you have a welder have a go at welding it up first and painting it black. Bog will only make it pretty but not as strong:y:

 

Thanks for all the info. I was trying to get the grille off for ages, how do i get it off the easy way?

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Bog will only make it pretty but not as strong

 

Yes, think of how the castor control arms will flex and wave about when you're giving it a hard time if you have a rusted, twisting chassis crossmember.

 

(also any trees or power poles might not stop coming through the engine bay as quickly as they should!)

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Arc is not normally recommend on cars but in this case you might be lucky due to the thinkness of that metal.

1) First cut out the infected section, normally in a square shape with you angle grinder. Cut out a little bit more than the rusted section.

2) IF you have the same type of metal with a simliar thickness great, if you don't go down to your scrap metal dealer he should be able to get you something to suit.. shouldnt cost more than $10-20

3) Take that square you cut out and trace it onto the new metal and cut out the new metal, cut as close as possible.

4) Weld a peice of metal,bar tube whatever to the face of the new metal so you got something to hold onto when trying to place the new metal in the hole.

5) Weld the new peice in , make sure you using the correct arc rods and amperage( can get this info from the google :happy: )

6) Grind to clean up the welds, treat metal with anti rust stuff then paint.

 

edit : OR just buy a new 1 from a wreck

Edited by Spencer
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Arc is not normally recommend on cars but in this case you might be lucky due to the thinkness of that metal.

1) First cut out the infected section, normally in a square shape with you angle grinder. Cut out a little bit more than the rusted section.

2) IF you have the same type of metal with a simliar thickness great, if you don't go down to your scrap metal dealer he should be able to get you something to suit.. shouldnt cost more than $10-20

3) Take that square you cut out and trace it onto the new metal and cut out the new metal, cut as close as possible.

4) Weld a peice of metal,bar tube whatever to the face of the new metal so you got something to hold onto when trying to place the new metal in the hole.

5) Weld the new peice in , make sure you using the correct arc rods and amperage( can get this info from the google :happy: )

6) Grind to clean up the welds, treat metal with anti rust stuff then paint.

 

edit : OR just buy a new 1 from a wreck

 

Thanks for all that, Now i gotta choose the best option. Bogging, or weld.. :bash:

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