demotorsport Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 decided to go with the ca18det and not an sr20 gonna make my own mounts and id love to see or talk to people that have done this before. few questions.. 1.how would i go about making the mounts and can the standard ca engine mounts be used with custom mounts on k frame? 2.have ke70 disc on fron..will they be enough? 3.can the stock ca gearbox cross member be used? 4.what clutch pedals can be used in a ke20? 5.will i have clearance issues with a ke70 booster and a clutch master? cheers guys.. I'm sure ill have more questions 1ce i get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 hey mate tried to answer below: 1.how would i go about making the mounts and can the standard ca engine mounts be used with custom mounts on k frame? A welder, a few hours, a bit of plate steel, an angle grinder. and instructions from your local authorised mod plate engineer. 2.have ke70 disc on fron..will they be enough? i highly doubt it, to the point where i would almost say definately no, refer to formentioned authorised mod plate engineer 3.can the stock ca gearbox cross member be used? probably, but not without serious modification. you would use the rubber bit, and make the metal bit bolt into your car 4.what clutch pedals can be used in a ke20? you will have to get creative and somehow fit a hydraulic clutch setup to your ke20, nothing will bolt it. 5.will i have clearance issues with a ke70 booster and a clutch master? no idea, someone will know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demotorsport Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 pretty basic answers there.lol.would like a little more detail by some1 that has done it before.thanks for your reply though. i can't find any detailed info anywhere.ive done engine mounts and crossmembers before for different conversions but i spose i want to get my head around it so i don't have to do things twice and no big suprises. but cheers for the brake advice..ill look into somethin a little better then what i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 ive done it before but in an ae86, and thats how you do it, being creative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUZ440 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 And thats how you get these engines in most small cars, It is simply not possible to just drop a non OEM engine in there, CA and SR are tall motors so they need to sit quite low and the steering box setup makes it easier as opposed to the rack and pinnon types as the sump sits forward If you angle the plates on the crossmember the right angle, it is almost a simple fit, but when you got to look at clearances from the firewall, trans tunnel, and gearbox mount, you will be quite surprised how easy they are to get in their, I don't like the look of CA block mounts, even go to mad dat and source their mounts and a way to mount it on the crossmember There are alot of braking options, master and booster, clutch setups, How good are you at cutting and welding, or how deep are your pockets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 I pulled my pedal set out of mine and put in a 27 set I got from Jap. 27 had Hydro set up from factory. 20 engine bays are tight. I went the 27 set-up because it pushed everything over to the side more to give more clearance. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/7663-redwarf-rebuild-v40/page__st__30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 hmmm forgot about the te27... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/71724-ke20-ke25-t50-hydraulic-clutch-conversion-options.html post number 6 shows what i had in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demotorsport Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 the funds shouldnt be a problem.but i enjoy ddoing all the work myself so just wanted some pics and detailed advive by some1 that has done it before. i don't like the looks of stanard mounts either but i think I'm going to try use them and play with the k frame to suit them if its possible. the s13 pedal bolts to firewall and don't require a complete pedal box so was gonna try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 sorry i was a bit harsh in the first few posts.....i hope this makes sense, difficult without alot of photos, but you get the idea i think. for engine mounts what we did, was we just basically created a new version of the standard item, but the angles changed becuase of the different engine and also the position of the engine in the bay, we made the engine as low as possible. basically we used 5 or 6mm plate, made a plate that bolted onto engine itself (on the CA i think it was 3 or 4 bolts). watch out for things that you might have to undo with engine in the car (oil filter, oil pressure sender, i think there is a knock sensor down there too?) we then bought gineric engine mount rubbers from repco, basically we just walked in and said "can we have the simplist looking engine mounts you have in stock". they were a solid round bit of rubber, with threads coming out either side. i have a feeling they were from a gemini, don't quote me on that. was like 4yrs ago. they looked something like this. we bolted the rubber engine mount onto the original cross member cut another bit of plate for the rubber bit to bolt to, placed that on the rubber mount (that was bolted to the chrossmember). we did this on both sides. Then we lowered the engine and gearbox in (with the formentioned plate bolted to the engine ready to go) and made sure that the engine was sitting flat and as low a possible, and not hitting anything. then we just needed to make the 2 plates that connect the 2 other plates together (the one on the engine, and the one attached to the rubber mount on the cross member) it ended up looking something like this: (image i found on the net, ours looked way better!) now for the gearbox xmember: this will be probably be very different for your car (ive not worked on a ke20 before), but all we did was use some 25x25 SHS, and a bit more of the 6mm plate above. got a nissan rubber mount, bolted this to a bit of SHS, and then figured out where to weld the plates on either side, drilled a hole in it and bolted it to the chassis. looked something like this: which came from this thread, where a guy put a ca18 into some sort of ke35 thing, probably similar to your car: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48657-pozmans-ke55-hard-top/ infact PM that guy, I'm sure he would be willing to take some photos of what he has done. basically we just tacked it together first time around. and then got the engine running and driving (carefully!), and once we knew the engine was in a good position and all the ancilaries worked, we pulled the mounts out again and welded them up properly. worked a treat! i hope this helps out a bit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUZ440 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Those rubber mounts look similar to Ford 250 Crossflow units, Repco sells them for about $150 for a pair, and they have a metal shim/washer on either side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demotorsport Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) ke70dave thanks for your time to write all that up.i appreciate it. removed motor today..that will prob end up in the bin. lowered ca in just to see whats happening. 1st prob i come across is the bar underneath.it hits the sump so can't lower engine down to even have a look. but i kinda see the the bellhousing has to clear the steering and the hump on sump has to clear the k frame and bar.so it can only go in 1 way as far as how forward or back engine sits..and the height i was going to get as low as i can without touching sump on k frame. the pics and details kedave posted are great..it has me thinking because i found that maybe the easiest way was to leave the standard ca mounts and rubbers and modify the standard mounts on the k frame to suit..so cut them off and make them shorter with the correct angle. so not sure what ill decide to do atm. Edited December 20, 2011 by demotorsport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUZ440 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 That would be the way to do it mate, I used the standard silvia mounts, and just made angle plates to suit, there are many variations, post some pics up so we can get an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demotorsport Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 That would be the way to do it mate, I used the standard silvia mounts, and just made angle plates to suit, there are many variations, post some pics up so we can get an idea the angle plates you made.. did you cut originals off and make some fresh angle plates up? or modify the original ke20 1s? and u even used stock rubbers ye? just thought would make life alot easier.. also did u have to drop that sway bar down?cause it hits. what should i take pics of exactly??? cheers for replies.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUZ440 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Yes cut the standard crossmember mounts off and made up mounts at a 45 degree angled plates, I can't comment on the 20, was more so giving a guide as to getting the engine in their, same principal yes Just pics of how it looks sitting in there, and where things are close, Stasil has an SR20 in his KE20, could PM him with regards to the sway bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demotorsport Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Yes cut the standard crossmember mounts off and made up mounts at a 45 degree angled plates, I can't comment on the 20, was more so giving a guide as to getting the engine in their, same principal yes Just pics of how it looks sitting in there, and where things are close, Stasil has an SR20 in his KE20, could PM him with regards to the sway bar today got engine in to sit there. had to take steering and sway bar out but 1ce in bolted back up. very tight fit between bellhousing and steering. not much gap between firewall. instead of making angle plates i got angled rubber mounts and are real close to bolting up without much welding or cutting at all. never been that lucky with conversions before.usualy have to make complete mounts up..thats why i asked cause sometimes there are little tricks that saves alot of work..gearbox lined up exactly inline with old crossmember so going to try use the borgy mount on ca box.hope i can pull it all off..time will tell i spose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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