Now, I'm not sure how well i can explain this.. But i'll give it a go.

 

With the sleeve kit going on my T18 struts the ride height will sit pretty low, and this means the factory shocks are way too long and will bottom out..

 

I don't currently want to spend 300 + some on KYB's to try and fix this as it was something i'd planned to do later..

 

 

So, my idea was.. Measuring up the front shocks, putting them in the lathe, shortening them (the actual rod not the body) and then nurling the ends down and tapping the thread on..

 

Thus leaving them shorter to keep the springs captive and they wont bottom out..

 

 

Any idea's on if this possible? I'm unsure whether the tube itself is hollow or not.. But in theory it might work

 

As i said might not be easy to understand what i'm getting at but..

Edited May 20, 201214 yr by Jono.C

Sounds plausible if they're not hollow.

I reckon give it a crack on a shit one first.

Yeah i think it could work.. Wont be the best but shouldn't be too bad.

 

I'll chop my ke70 one in half and take a look

Hi there Jono that is exacly what i did to Thomas shockers and it works just fine,the shaft is solid so no worrys turning down on the lathe so i hope this helps you out and good luck.

 

Cheers;- Stuart.

Sweet! Thanks for that

 

How did you go tapping the topping of the tube afterwards?

Not a problem at all just done it with a tap&die set but if you are geared up on the lathe then you could use that .We started with standard KE11 struts with OTTO-MOTTO coil over kit and Pedders gas comfort ride shockers ,KE30 front discs all works fine.

 

Cheers:- Stuart.

Awesome, Thanks.

 

How did you measure your shocks out? Because i'm going to have to shorten them in such a way that i can still adjust my coilover kit, and not have them top out

Hi there Jono if you want to give me a call it would be a lot easer to explain on the phone than writing it out,my mobile is 0428574248 or home 0350376708.

 

Cheers:- Stuart.

Thanks for that, I'll try and give you a ring later on in the week if that's alright?

 

Cheers

Did consider this method just remember those shafts are hardened so you might have to cut the thread with a bit on

a lathe rather than use a die and the top section is usually profiled ie has a double d step which locates on the upper hat

to stop it turning when tightened up or removing the nut. If you have aftermarket hats then you could keep it round

and use a rattlegun but I rememeber there was some problem with adjustable dampers and using a rattle gun so keep

that in mind.

Did consider this method just remember those shafts are hardened so you might have to cut the thread with a bit on

a lathe rather than use a die and the top section is usually profiled ie has a double d step which locates on the upper hat

to stop it turning when tightened up or removing the nut. If you have aftermarket hats then you could keep it round

and use a rattlegun but I rememeber there was some problem with adjustable dampers and using a rattle gun so keep

that in mind.

 

Some adjustable shocks have the adjusted in the top of the shock ram (ie Koni EXTERNALLY adjustable). Using a rattle gun could damage it.

I've herd of it being done before the main thing i would worry about first is if you will even have enough travel from the top of the strut tube to the top hat this is the problem i had with my ke20 struts the actual strut body is too long to run a low ride height i had an inch of travel between the the gland nut and and the bump stop.so any shortening the shaft could be pretty much useless.