Hey guys just wondering if anyone has this kit and still knows where their manual resides. I have the unit but for the life of me I cannot find the damn manual. I want to get the wideband kit for the display so I need to re configure the unit but without the manual I have no idea how to do it. I think the kit is kc-5300 or something along the lines of that.

 

Cheers!

Tried looking up Silicon Chip mag. Often a lot of Jaycar kits have been tested by the magazine and they describe them in detail.

Yeah but to view the thing costs like $8, so if no one has the manual I'll have to fork it out.

lol- I'll have it here, but now I'll have to find it!

 

.......................................

 

Wow! Brilliant filing system! Jaycar KC5300 kit, 16pages...

 

What do you want to know? Nothing mentions wide-band conversion, but I'm glad to read that "many late-model engines operate with air-fuel ratios approaching 19:1 at constant throttle", which is what I had the SUs running at up to Cairns and back. I thought it might have been too lean, but it seems not.

Edited July 31, 201214 yr by altezzaclub

I'm looking at this page http://siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_111003/article.html

and use this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5486

 

The KC-5300 is just jaycars remake on the old kit.

 

I don't think that you necessarily need to change anything physically but in the set up of the unit where you push the buttons etc.

That photo of the inside of the wide-band is quite different to inside of the narrow-band. The NB has to do an analogue-digital conversion to read the EGO output, while I expect that the controller does that on a WB and feeds the display a digital signal.

 

What are the buttons for? There aren't any on the NB.

 

Ask them if the NB will handle the WB controller. I think a WB can be used as a NB display, but the opposite might not be true.

I've called jaycar and they have no idea about anything. So I've managed to find an original wideband display kit, the last one in the state.

Just have to drive a fair distance to get it but it'll be worth it. Getting the LSU4.2 sensor should be interesting....

I've called jaycar and they have no idea about anything.

 

its a shame when this kind of thing happends.

 

half the people at jaycar ive met have never opperated a soldering iron.

 

what is the kit worth you're purchasing?

 

we purchased a widband sensor, controller and gauge not long ago for the rx7, came with a digital read out "guage" and everything. it was around $400 i belive. can't recall what it was.....came with a bosch sensor though.

 

been alot more reliable than the LC1 kit we had for a long time.

Edited August 1, 201214 yr by ke70dave

In total it'll cost me around the $220 mark all depending on how much I can get the 02 sensor for.

From the reviews I have read the kit is very good and has an accuracy of 0.1 ratios (when calibrated properly).

But they say that at more lean mixtures it is not as sensitive, that does not bother me as the leanest I will go is around 16:1 and the readings

max out around 20:1. My other option was to buy one of the Innovative wideband o2 sensor/controller display kits for about $280 or $230 for the cheaper unit

but I have had mixed reviews about it.

Dave how damped is the wideband? Haw fast do the readings skip up and down to follow the motor load changes?

 

The narrow-band is very mobile, the numbers rarely still & even on constant cruise they flick up and down a few places. I don't mind that, but I wondered if they damped the wideband meters to make them more readable to the general public.

 

Twinks you should be decelerating down at 20 to 1 and cruising leaner than 16. The accuracy isn't important really, its just the trends to make sure it doesn't richen too much on cruise or run lean under power in the rev range somewhere.

The wide-band will generally be more stable/less erratic as the voltage response curve is quite linear whereas the narrow band has somewhat of an s-curve where

the flat response of the curve occurs at 0.66v or it's stoichiometric value, sharply rising on one edge and sharply falling on the other. That is what you see on the display where

it is quite jumpy and more erratic the further away you get from stoichiometric.

 

A quick graphic (if it shows correctly, ignore the dots)

Or link here http://www.ztechz.net/id12.html

 

Narrowband:

 

------- 1 Volts

.........\

..........\ <- 14.7: 1 (0.5 - 0.6 volts)

...........\

.............------------ 0 Volts

 

Wideband:

............/ 5 Volts

........../

........./

......./ <- 14.7:1 (2.3Volts)

...../

.../

./ 0 Volts

 

So you can also see that the narrow band even has less of a voltage range to go through giving it less dynamic range.

Not saying that narrow band sensors are bad or anything it's just that I am having difficulties using mine from a bare bones

re tune on a forced induction engine.

 

The great thing about this kit is that it also outputs an s-curve to my ECU giving me wideband accuracy to an originally narrowband input, giving greater economy in closed loop mode.

Edited August 1, 201214 yr by Twinky

to my ECU

 

Ah, yes.. You've gone to the dark side, I remember now..

 

What was the rattle in the motor??

i think this is what you are trying to describe twinky

 

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161395&stc=1&d=1185512265

 

we got a Ngk powerdex afx

 

the update speed is really very good, i can't exactly remember specifics, but i do rememeber thinking that it was just right for the application.

Haha! The dark side he says! I consider carbs the dark side.

 

I haven't had enough time to strip down the 5k and look at the bearings, it could be anything for all I know at this point.

Only having a few randomly spaced hours a day to look at the motor let alone trying to re tune the 4k all gets very

hectic. My focus is to try to get the 4k in good shape till I source another 4k and build it for boost. I was originally planning this for my 4k

but the 5k decided to throw a hissy fit. Plans are for 1ggte pistons, rods, engine balancing, cam grind for boost and then add Ko4 turbo.

At my current schedule and time expenditure I see this happening in two or so years............ Tis what happens when you decide to bring

a poop factory into this world but I wouldn't have it any other way.

How do you calibrate the sensor ? Only way I can see it being done is to test along a known one on a dyno session or something like. Is there a simpler way ?