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Ke11 Tracking With Road


shaun1200

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just brought my first ke11 and noticed how bad it tracks with the grooves in the road, is there anything to help this or is it just something you have to get used to???

at the moment its running 13x175mm meshies but i was hoping by throwinging the 12in stockies back on and doing the idler arm bush as well as the rear shackle bushes it would help cut it down a bit

any ideas???

cheers

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The problem is theres no castor adjustment with the ke10's.... datto 1200's do it aswell as you can't adjust the castor until you thread the castor rod more and add an extra nut and wind some castor into it... as soon as you add abit more castor they stop tracking so bad. As everybody else has said tyres aswell shaun. :) Have fun...... remember to do your wheelnuts up lol

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If there is a range for toe measurements in the specs, have them set it towards the toe-in end of the range rather than the tow-out end. Toe-out makes it track more.

 

The Altezza specs are total toe +0.8mm (min -0.7 to max +2.3mm) So anywhere from toe-out 0.7 to toe-in 2.3 is considered fine. However toe-out crucifies the tyre's inner treads on those cars, so we always aim for 2 to 2.3mm toe-in.

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Per Toyota

 

Tire inflation 18psi (!)

Toe in unloaded 2 - 6 mm (0.08 - 0.24'')

Camber unloaded 10 30' - 2030' (see below)

Caster unloaded -15' to 45'

kingpin inclination unloaded 60 - 70

Turning angle: inner 37 - 380

outer 32 - 330

 

 

Interestingly, in the supplement it notes: To prevent abnormal tire wear, the wheel alignment is changed in camber as follows by modifying the shape of the steering knuckle arm.

 

Camber loaded 30'

Camber unloaded 30' - 1030'

 

Production effective

KE10-290392

KE15-103923

KE16-169001

stationwagon

KE16-170000

delivery van

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