so i used the 20 at 10 o'clock, it has a V with three dots above it and a line.

 

car off was 13.16

car idle was 14.43

car off was 13.34

 

was i meant to test the battery when it was cold?

how about engine at 3000rpm?

Ok, from the test, did you get the printout? what was the SLV (simulated load volts - what the voltage drops to under load ie starting the car)? if above 10V, then battery good.

 

I believe your issue is around the alternator regulator. if the charge light is off, then the brushes are in contact, and the alternator is working. however, when the engine is turning over, and the charge light is on, check the voltage again. this will indicate if the alternator is the issue. unlike a battery, the alternator either works, or doesn't. there is no middle ground, or gradual degradation.

 

so i used the 20 at 10 o'clock, it has a V with three dots above it and a line.

 

car off was 13.16

car idle was 14.43

car off was 13.34

 

was i meant to test the battery when it was cold?

 

In terms of your above data, this just shows that the battery was taking a charge. however a fully charge battery will only show 12.6-12.7v (theoretically, @3.2V/cell, a battery is capable of 13.2v - but this isn't achievable in normal wet cell batteries). any higher will be residual charge in the system. to get an accurate result, wait 5-10 minutes, and test again.

Edited September 7, 201214 yr by Bowler

Honestly, I've had more alternators fail than you've probably cooked dinners.

 

OK maybe not.

 

Alternator probably cactus. They'll often give you niggly little problems for months on end until they finally die. My money is on alternator.

Edited September 7, 201214 yr by philbey

Car doesnt have a tacco, so i have no idea when it's doing 3000rpm.

 

They didn't give me a printout so i have no idea on that bit.

 

So looks like i should be ringing up some auto elecs asking for prices on fixing the alternator, this car really likes to ʞ©$ɟ around with my wallet. this stuff about the regulator sounds pretty likely though.

 

if anyone close by would be willing to give me a hand though, that'd be pretty awesome.

My last alternator cost me 150 change over. i changed it in the car park of the auto electrician.

 

from logan priest auto electrician in wynnum but thats a drive away from you.

i'd happily part with only 150 and have this drama over with. and it's only a 25 minute drive.

 

so what'd you do? take out the alternator for him to fix, then pop it back in yourself?

You give them your old one to reco and they give you a fresh reco'd one. Cheaper than new but just as good.

Edited September 7, 201214 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

sounds like a good deal, supercheap have them re-conditioned for double that price.

How far are prepared to travel??

Max at "Queensland starters and alternators" in Nerang is good. I've got an alternator in my car by them and it hasn't let me down for over 4 years.

bit far for me, all good though. when the charge light comes on again, i'll have it tested to make sure it's the alty playing up, then look into going over to wynnum

Any decent auto elecy will do it for you, no need to drive across town.

well i finally got around to getting an auto elec a couple weeks ago (bloody dodgy prick he was). had the alternator rebuilt and charge light was still coming on. after he fixed something else he ʞ©$ɟed up and blamed on me he said it was the fan belt. i did that myself though, but the charge light is still coming on about 70% of the time.

 

battery hasnt gotten to the point where it cranks really slow in a while though. so i guess is that the 30% of the time when the light is off, that's charging it enough. Or the wiring to the light is just playing up.....

 

I've had a few battery tests, they all say its good

 

any thoughts?

how old is the battery? when you say the battery is good.. before you mentioned it was 68% but still said good? i would have replaced the battery at that stage. with a reco'd alternator it is probably the only thing left other than wiring gremlins.

The most obvious solution is usually the right one.

the battery is under 2 years old, and it's a good one. I'm gonna call up some auto elecs now and see if i can get a diagnosis done.

bet it's the bloody wiring gremlins