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Manual Conversion And Now...problems.


popandwar

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So two days ago a mate and I did an auto to 5 speed manual conversion on my 82 ke70...

 

it all went fine, used a new clutch, aligned it with a alignment tool, box fit straight in, everything bolted up nicely. was a really easy swap.

 

too good to be true, so today i was driving along and i gave it a bit of a rev in 2nd, it started to shake and splutter, almost like bunny hopping...i shifted to 3rd and it kept doing it under revs. i took my foot off and put it back on and it was fine...

 

it was then fine for the rest of the drive to work...after work it was really bad. spluttering and like cutting out, a bit of backfire and bunnyhopping. this was mainly in 1st (taking off) and 2nd. 3rd was ok...

 

all the gears shift fine.

 

now i've had issues with my points in the past similar symptoms...nothing this bad though.

 

it's also inconsistent...

 

iv'e searched on here, car diagnosis sites. so far I've seen "replace spark plugs". but if it was missing it would have done it before the conversion...

 

 

thank you to anyone with any advice :)

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I've adjusted it a little but if i give it any slack the pedal is really soft, so I've kept it at what i think is the right tension...

you're right though and considering my points issues in the past I'm counting on something totally unrelated and ridiculous to be wrong haha.

 

if it helps I set the points myself and didn't reset the timing...

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Hi Logan,

My guess is it is related to fuel, and not to gearbocx mechanical, or an ignition problem.

 

Did you do the conversion with the engine still in place ? If so you would have had to tilt the engine back down. There is an electrical wire on the carby of the far side. This wire is always powered when the ignition is on, and opens a solenoid in the carby to allow fuel to flow. It's purpose is to cut off fuel as soon as the ignition is switched off, so the engine cannot run on. However if there is an intermittent connection between carby and inner guard panel "green" connector, you can get a symptom, similar to what you are describing. This wire, being connected to the engine, vibrates, & if there is a bad connection, could easily be intermittent. I trust it is just that, because it's a very easy fix.

 

Cheers Banjo

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Did you fit a spigot bearing? I'm dying to find out what happens when someone omits that...

 

Have you got a timing light?? If not, they are a good tool to have, along with a dwell meter if you plan on sticking to mechanical points rather than changing to electronic. Maybe too much advance would make it bunnyhop like that, although you should hear it pinking if that is so.

 

If it is only on booting it, you might check the operation of the pump jet on the carb. Easy enough, just look down the throat. That can kill acceleration and misfire it from being too lean, but is OK if you accelerate slowly.

 

The backfire part suggests carb or dizzy.

Edited by altezzaclub
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yeah it seems to run fine when accelerating slowly...it starts fine giving me the impression the points are fine for now, spark plugs are clean too.

 

forgive me for this next response...it's my mate who is the more mechanically gifted and i don't know what a spigot bearing is :hammer: . i remember replacing the thrust bearing..haha.

 

would upgrading to electric dizzy be a smart decision then?

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i don't know what a spigot bearing is

A $7 bearng goes in the end of the crankshaft. Autos don't have them, but manuals need them to hold the nose of the gearbox input shaft.

 

Otherwise I would expect the clutch to shudder and bunnyhop for a short while until the gearbox input bearing fails, but I'm not sure. One day someone will forget it...

 

The electronic dizzy out of the 5K is a good buy, but it has a lousy advance curve as it is an industrial unit for forklifts. So if you want the car to go like it does now, but be more reliable, you have to change the springs inside the dizzy. Read through The Girl's KE70 build sometime, its all in there.

post-7544-0-16112900-1357967236_thumb.jpg

Edited by altezzaclub
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Yep, called my mate and he said "I knew we would forget something". Tomorrow morning the box is coming back off and spigot put in. I just hope it's not too late. It had a slight shudder yesterday on its first big drive and last night was horrible. So I'm hoping the clutch and box are still all good. I'm guessing that once the box comes off and there is metal shavings or bits of clutch or something I've screwed it, but if not should everything be ok? Should I remove the plate from the bottom of the box and check teeth? Thanks for your help guys!

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Turn the box by hand in each gear and see if it makes a funny sound. I doubt if it has stripped teeth.

 

So, it will be interesting to see if this solves the problem. I figured it would let the input shaft and the clutch plate wave around in the breeze a bit, so it wouldn't line up with the pressure plate as you let the clutch out, and cause it to shudder.

 

Anyway, make sure the clutch plate is lined up perfectly with the spigot bearing, as now the error in putting the box on the motor is only 1mm or so. A fraction off center with the clutch plate and the gearbox won't want to go on the last 20mm. I've had some titanic struggles over the years...

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