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1975 Ke20 "rally Rolla"

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  • Author

hmm I'm thinking to just add it after the factory regulator, that would be fine i hope? I just want drivable fuel pressure, can't rally drive it with 8 bars, you can hear/smell its running really rich and i don't have a heart to rev it with wrong fuel pressure...

 

hmm didnt belive a FPR had so much to do with the response?...

 

and another question, why does not the factory FRP keep the pressure down to what it should? the pressure i'm running is just too high for it to handle?

 

it's not so easy to build a car when you know nothing, but you know its possible in some way, you just don't know how or don't know anyone who can explain it to you, felling so stupid for asking all these questions but I'm 19, and have no mechanical education and English is not my mother tongue...

 

anyways, picked up my welded TA60 axle now, will start to disassemble it as soon as i can :)

Edited by SM Hunter

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  • oh and this after

  • Awesome work bro. Gonna be too good to rally soon.

  • Plastic sheet between 1mm and 3mm thick is easy to find, it just has to be big anough to cover one cyl. drill a 5mm hole through it & seal it with grease around the edge.   25ml graduated burett

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The vacuum diaphram pretends to be an accelerator pump on the stock motor, so it has a lot to do with response. When you have high vac it sucks the regulator open and lowers fuel pressure. When you boot it and the vcacuum collapses it closes the diaphram exit and the high fuel pressure puts extra fuel through the injectors.

 

If you put in a much more powerful pump it will over-whelm the regulator.

 

You'll need to measure the fuel pressure really, the stock setup figures are around on web, something like 50psi. I'm not sure the usual VL pump setup is working like the AE86 original, no-one seems to measure it and everyone just uses it. See if you can find flow rate for the Bosch pump and compare it to yours.

  • Author

ahh that makes sense! yeah i have a Nanometer plumed in so ill be able to see aht pressure i have :)

 

i guess i have a lot of else shit to do now..

the parking brake faile on the crown today, ʞ©$ɟ

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Noo! Not only a lovely Crown bent but the neighbours will be upset too!

 

That's bad luck!

  • Author

luckily my insurance covers the damage on her property, the crown is almost as new, i thing the fact that is a chassi on top of a frame saved me... if it was a monocoque car like the corollas the damages would have been much greater...

 

anyways.. since i'm unsure if i want to register the 4age, the 1600 on the valve covers have to go..

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brought out a set of fresh valve covers to work on.. going to swap the cams in my engine so i have to take them off soon anyways :)

shaved off the "1600"

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a coat of filler

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and look at this beauty.. a Toyota Liteace, 1.8 diesel

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1C engine, never heard of..

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Edited by SM Hunter

  • Author

New parts, Malpassi 1:1 RRFPR, Datsun 240z brake master

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the thingy in the rear of the brake master fits with some modifications

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KE20 brake master 11/16

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240z master 7/8

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Awesome build thread, great to see it resurrecting! In case you need some restoration parts for it, check out this link We have a pretty wide list at CARiD store.

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Edited by CARiD

You'll have to put the Malpassi in instead of the stock FPR, not after it,

 

If you have high pressure now with the stock one it just can't flow enough fuel through to drop the pressure, or its not working correctly. So if you leave it in place you will still have that high fuel pressure pumping into the injectors. Definately fit a pressure gauge while you set it up.

 

Tried the brakes?? You might have to go to the gym to build up big leg muscles! You'll need nearly 30% more push to get the same braking.

  • Author

havent tried the brakes yet, bleed the front and ill wait with the rear till the new rear axle is in :)

hmm the pressure seems fine judging by the exhaust, before it was all back and the idle was like a rotary..

took it for a test, seems fine

took in inside and jacked it up..

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axle out

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TA22 axle with welded diff going in

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swapping the gearbox for a ae86 one, instead of the old TA22 one i had, it was leaking and the 3rd gear was kind of hard to get into, had to go to 2nd then 3rd...

so i have to make a mount for the tailshaft support aswell, and possibly shorten it, its a AE86 tailshaft

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  • Author

AE86 Gearbox in

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had to move the shifter hole backwards, much better possision now!

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Ae86 tailshaft fits in perfect lenght i think! ill have to dubble check, now i need to possision the axle and weld it to the KE20 axle mounts

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  • Author

AE86 Tailshaft fits!

 

now onto the engine, started taking the head apart

 

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266/260 dur 9.5/9.0 lift

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back together

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bought a ITB manifold, can't wait till i get it :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

diff welded in

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got the rest finished

test drive below!

 

  • Author

chainging the headgasket for a TRD 0.8 one, the old one was blown anyways

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i think ill find a huge glassplate and some sand paper to remove the rest

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cleaning up the wiring now that i know what i need and not

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My cams and the headgasket

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good to have multiple intake possibilities

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i think I'm going to either remove the stock FPR like you said altezzaclub and put the malpassi in instead, but i need to find a block off plate then..

and I'm unsure if I'm going to remove the tvis or not?

Your funny.

 

Have a look in your box of bits that came with the FPR. It's simply a small aluminium plate about an inch long with two bolt holes to locate into the fuel rail. On side is a prong with from memory an O ring, that inserts into the rail. On the other side is a barb you connect a hose to which goes to the remote mounted FPR.

 

Like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbosmart-FPR-Adapter-Toyota-Subaru-/111856717603?hash=item1a0b2e0f23:g:GZoAAOSwUdlWejLM

 

If buying this one, you need to make sure you get one designed for a bigport 4AGE rail obviously

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