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1975 Ke20 "rally Rolla"


SM Hunter

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i'v got possitive on both sides of the coil dunno why but can i just unhook the negativ on the negative and ground it? :)

 

No, that might short out something and set the wiring on fire.. Find out what is powering the negative side of the coil, remembering that the power flows through the coil from +ve to -ve then down to the igniter and off to earth. So if you take the wire off the -ve, you will have power at the -ve terminal when the +ve has power, but the -ve wire should be dead.

 

Check out Parrot's wiring diagram here

 

http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/ewd-ae86-1983-eu_au-parrot.pdf

 

 

 

6bar is pretty high, I thought they ran on 3-4bar. The pump I've just bought has no brand name and no specs at all of course...

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Fuel pressure at the pressure regulator at no vacuum should be 33 - 40 psi (2.3 2.8 kg/cm2; 226 - 275 kPa) - per the factory engine manual.

 

Conversion psi to bar (.0689476)

 

So that's under 3 bar at the regulator

Edited by parrot
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okay, turns out the posstive power on the negative side of the coil dissapears when i take off the possitive so you where right, nothing wrong, its just flowing through the coil... i'v been learning what pins do what inthe ECU and have printed out a wiring diagram, so ill go check if everything is right in the weekend

here is a panoramic pic for you guys :)

 

Ahh okey ill try to figure out what to do with the fuel pump then.. hmm

WTI3Rk9U.jpeg

Edited by SM Hunter
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Finally! i now have spark, turns out the fault Was a broken test clam that i used to Power the ECU, so i swapped that all of a sudden i had spark, and i can spell the injectors are working, the gas in the system is really old. Now i need to do the fuel system and then i can do a startup :D i also need to do the alternator, Exhaust and radiator :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

okay, shit just got serius, bough a set of 266/260 dur 9.5/9 lift cams, TRD 0.5 headgasket for more compression, silvertop ITB's... so I'm going to swap in the cams and headgasket, then gather parts for the ITB and when i'v got everything i need I'm going to put the ITB's and standalone on it.. soo now i need and ITB to bigport adapter and a standalone, any suggestions? :) ohh and i bought a set of nippon 0.5oversized piston with new rings for 20$, all new in box, don't need them yet but who knows :)

hoping for 150-160 hp..

btw my engine is a Malaysia import, MAP, dunno if its diffrent from the eruo spec 4ages, they got map aswell..

 

i can't get my brakes to work propperly, i'v now got AE86 front brakes with braided lines and stock in the rear and stock brake master, and i can't get the pedal hard, its just going all the way to the floor.. its not hard enough? any tips? i'v been bleeding the brakes a lot, bleed trough like half a liter of brake fluid

Edited by SM Hunter
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its just going all the way to the floor..

 

Did you bleed the master cyl itself?? No bubbles hiding in there?? The pistons in the AE86 will be bigger and need more pedal push to work, but I didn't think they would go to the floor... halfway maybe. They won't be hard at all on the first push, but a second push should bring them up immediately. Post up the diameters of the original brake pistons, the new brakes and the master cyl.

 

The solution to that is a bigger master cyl.

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  • 1 month later...

Car is almost finished but ill meassure up the pistons and the master, keep in mind that i don't have the same brake master as you guys, i have a twin circut thingy..

instaled a pressure guage on my fuel pressure and its at 7-8bars so i need a fuel pressure regulator, but i don't know what to buy, i had a china one laying arround but that was more of a on/off valve and not a regulator...

 

and my brake problem I'm thinking a 280z master, can anyone vertify that this fits its 7/8 inch so much bigger than stock... and it has the vertical bolt pattern..

 

and diff i'm thinking the TA22, i have to shorten the driveshaft and i want the AE86 gearbox so ill be using the gearbox end of a ta60 tailshaft and weld it together with rear end of a ta22 tailsahft... atleast thats the plan..

 

ITB's arrived

QkNvQWZ0.jpeg

adopted a set of thrumpets from my 2T-G, had to redrill the holes but they fit perfect

QmRCbmx2.jpeg

86 brakes and 20 brakes...

aXhvNzlS.jpeg

Edited by SM Hunter
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celica rear axle, a coupple of cm wider, i need to clean it, cut of all the mountings, weld on new mounts, paint it and rebuild the brakes then i can throw in a set of lowering blocks and go play!

cmZvam1V.jpeg

new minlite wheels, 4x114 , i just loove the look of them

VnB5REpm.jpeg

pretty many rides outside of the garage today

cG1GdStn.jpeg

Edited by SM Hunter
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cut off all the 4 link brackets of the Celica axle because everyone knows leafs are the best!

LzFFMFNa.jpeg

pullex the axlels, the splines are 24mm, so i think a AE86 zenki LSD would fit... hmm i have one in my 86 axle but i don't want to sacrafice that either.. if anyone has a cheap lsd send me a PM :) don't want to put in the welded one i have, simply because its a road car and i don't want that sudden oversteer/understeer..

aEY3aW1n.jpeg

painted it

cFhOSW9Z.jpeg

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Great work, love the pics. Have you finished the cage yet? Could be worth your time putting in a main diagonal on the main hoop

for rollovers. Harness bar you asked about could mount between rear stays to allow proper restraint without shoulder roll on impact.

If you search for the Australian CAMS manual it has a few cage designs to work off, maybe have a look for some ideas. :)

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thanks, yep i need a brace in the main hoop and a harness bar, just need some more cage spec tube :)

 

annd i'v orderd a Datsun 240Z brake master cylinder, 7/8" so i gope thats enough

i'v also bought a maplassi ajustable fuel pressuere regulator 1:1 but do the 4age require constant fuel presssure or should i conenct up the vacume line and get it to follow the manifold pressure?

 

i'v also bought a MA61 supra to swap the engine into the Crown so I'm currently low on money.. so the plan now is to take the TA60 welded rear axle i got and put the diff into the TA22 axle, then put in the ta60 brakes aswelll... all this to get it a tad narrower than the TA60.. doing this instead of welding the TA22 so i can go back to a open fdiff if i change my mind...

9a0f5c519c8bab65395408b7171f9493.jpg

 

 

and back to the Crown, i swapped the 5R and the drivetrain for a MS85 drivetrain and a 4M, now I'm planning to put a 5M-GE in it and possibly Twinturbo it.. anyone got experience with turboing 5M's here? :)

 

but first the supra will be a beater, i have to clean out the tank to get it to start, atleast i hope thats the problem... then ill be putting in a bucket seat, 4pointharness and some rally/gravel tires and use it in the fields and get some "test plates" for it so i can roadtest it aswell :D

 

currently using the Crown as a daily so a lot of money is going for gas aswell...

bGloSlBz.jpeg

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When I ran a Malpassi on my AE86, I ran it as a direct replacement for the factory regulator. It came with a fitting that bolted to the fuel rail in place of the standard regulator, and a vacuum pipe went to the regulator which I mounted on a bracket off the firewall.

 

It gave an instantaneous response when you touched the throttle, but I found it a little abrupt and eventually removed it.

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