SM Hunter Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 (edited) you guys really sure my head can cope with a 10.96mm lift cam? cause i have theese stupid valves where the retainer sits in the second notch... the upper notch got a rubber ring that i don't see the point off...? soo i cleaned the rocker stuff and put it on the head Closed the valve, adjusted the rocker so it sat tight on the valve, then dropped the valve to the max ( till the retainer hit the guide, as shown in pic) and meassured the distance the rocker moved (where the pushrod hits it) and it moved 7,5mm... the cam can only have 7,5mm lift... ? i Just dotn get this?? orginal lift on a 4k is 9.0mm ec and 8.5mm in... what the f***? and my cam is 10.96mm? Have i missunderstood the meaning of lift? in other words the pushrod can MAXIMUM move 7,5mm upwards from a closed valve till the retainer hits the guide...? This is lift right? the blue distance? or is it the red or blue together? Edited December 14, 2014 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Tojo2 solved the problem for me :) I mixed CAM lift and VALVE lift :) the max cam lift i can have seems to be 7.5mm before the retainer hits the guide, my cam is has 7.4mm lift :) i think the original is 6mm :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Talked to a guy now, i will end up with 0.15mm clerance between the guide and the retainer, he advised me to machine down the guids like 1.5mm to get some more clearance, is this a good idea? my first though was to machine down the retainers but then he suggested the guides, i don't know whats a better idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Hoping the Retainer sits high enough to not make the springs coil bind aswell, thinking om going for a catch tank, my brother got one left over, then i need to get a AFM aswell.. I'm working 24/7 between xmas and new year so can't get anything done after xmas evning :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 X-mas came early New lifters Trying to get the block clean New ignition system, Condensator, distributor cap, Rotor, plug leads and breaker points! put everything together fast, no bolts etc just for storing through x mas since I'm working.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 OK, I'm back online after being away doing a 4AGE conversion with someone. So, the valve spring/guides sorted?? A workshop would dip the block in solvent after taking out the oil gallery plugs, so if you are cleaning it yourself don't forget to take out the allen plugs and clean the oilways inside the block. You don't want the 40years of shit built up in there to go through your new bearings, or reduce the oil flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Allen plugs? do you mean the "plugs" on the side where you can pun in a block warmer for the winter? Great to see you back! how many hours do you guys use to swap in a 4Age in a k-series? annyways sorry for not beeing on here but I'v had a lot to do lately, worked from chrismas day til school started... :( got my cone filters while beeing away Crappy phone pic of the filters installed, had to cut the silicone hoses 20mm ish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Ah.. took us days and days... Reorganised stuff like the fuel system as we did it. I can't find a clear picture of the back of a K motor, but here is the gallery plug. It opens into a drilling right along the motor where the oil is pumped up from the filter below and fed to the crankshaft main bearings from the gallery. here's some info about them- http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 I'll take a look for the plug next time in in the garage :) My plates have arrived! Need to run a vacum to the catch, just popped a filter on it for the looks for now :) Brought the head and manifolds home, dad is going to drop them off at a local shop for machining :) guessing 1mm will do it , yeah i know you guys are telling me to meassure but .. if its to high/the head have been machined before, then ill have a HIGH comression engine--> more hp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Do the head ports match the inlet manifold pipe diameter? They just look a bit smaller in that last photo, and you wouldn't want a step-down in diameter for the ingoing air to hit. Its easy to machine out the port entrance while you have the head off, just a cutting burr in a drill, as we discussed on page 8. If there was a step in the inlet wall it wold ruin the airflow and stop the cam working efficiently. Edited January 11, 2015 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 The ports and the head match like 99% :) ill take a further look when i get the head back :) anyways, here is a video of some footage i had from the summer, when it had the orginal engine... revs pretty high, I'v read that the orignal valve springs makes the valves float at about 6,5k in my ears this sounds like more than 6,500 ? I'm impressed by this litttle 1,166, pulls strong and revs high from factory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I'm suprised what a boring Friday night can lead to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 yet another Buut time to get serius Cam is supposed to arrive monday :) I neeed new spings, are the king 30mm low spings stiff? i want really stiff springs.. any idea? whats the diameter of the orignal springs? 130mm? anyways took my springs out and added my lowering blocks in the rear.. new rims would have been nice aswell, but there is no 4x110 rims here.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 No, you don't want stiff springs... you want springs that will hold the car at the height you want it, (tall) and then shocks that are stiff going downwards to stop the car from bottoming out. Then the shocks need to come up easily so the car doesn't get dragged down low and held there as it crashes into all the bumps and rocks. This is the opposite to what road shocks do, which is why they are no good on dirt cars. This is why Bilisteins are so popular. They are tipped upside down so the main body of the shock sticks up out of the strut and the larger diameter is stronger. Meanwhile the thinner shock shaft is tucked away down inside the strut so it can't bend. They are easy to get re-valved if you don't like the characteristics they had when you bought them In use, the springs should not be badly marked from coil-binding when the struts compress all the way down, but showing a few marks from it is good. That means you are using all the travel you have. The shock must never bottom out before the springs coilbind or you will smash the shock internally. Then you need a long preogressive bumpstop to absorb the force just before the coils bind. The ride height should be higher than normal to give you lots of downwards travel when you land after a yump. A static height of 2/3 up the strut travel. The front needs longer LCAs or adjustble cambertops to get negative camber to make it bite and turn in too. If the springs are stiff the car will skate across the surface of the gravel. You need body roll to throw weight onto the outside wheel and make it bite in. So you need long soft springs and strong shocks. You need it overall softer in the back, as the squat you get from the nose lifting and the tail sitting down will give better traction under acceleration. The rear doesn't hit yumps and hollows like the front does. Get long soft progressive rear bump stops too, and use all the rear travel you can. The rear springs are softer than stock too. That will keep you busy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks alot! searched a bit but could not find any part number for anything that fits the KE20 struts... even found out a norwegian company has 60% off bilstein products! i would guess upside down dampers would be quiet expencive... i don't want to mess with the LCA's so ill start looking for cambertops aswell! anything Toyota fits? Gas is the way to go? not twin tube? i don't know anything about shocks.. as you may have understood i really don't know a shit about anything :P i'v just learned from my own experience... iv tried pushing the front end of a Rally Volvo down once.. it felt like it was on jack stands... this is all because of stiff shocks and not stiff springs? soo i can use the orginal springs if i get a propper set of shocks? EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-70-75-Monroe-GT-Gas-Shock-Absorber-Cartridge-Front-KE20-KE25-/121029933031 Edited January 25, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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