May 27, 201511 yr Author comment_697434 Attended to Gatebil last weekend... :) https://www.facebook.com/camillast?fref=ts Report
June 3, 201511 yr Author comment_697625 Got my gasket kit! Head is ready, shimmed 1mm, stiffer valve springs, regrinded valves and new valve guide gaskets! cleaned the surface of the block soon no more leaky sump i also got hold of a weber adapter plate from tally ,so now i need to get hold of a weber carby preferably a 32/32... anyone here that has one? Report
June 4, 201511 yr Author comment_697660 Guess what? 2xSolex 40mm... hmm what is usally in the other end of 2 solex's? yeah , a 2tg! but this is rather special, its actually a 2TG-EU... but, its in parts.... 2TG TRD oil pump, how much is this worth? T50 gearbox fits right into stock tailshaft TE27 snacks Tachooo!!! and celica steering wheel MASSIVE whiteline swaybar! the car also has a sway bar in the rear and a Phantom grip "lsd" diff! the head he was plannig to put 265/45-16 in the rear haha street slicks! 4 off theese massive fender extenders 2tg fly KE20 shortned and with AW11 rear dampers for more stiffness and less travel... = more low a box full of suspention pars all new! some techo toy etc... :D a new brake pump ducktail chin spoiler some celica stuff i got loads off stuff, still have not unpack all I'm excited! iv never seen a 2tg before and now i got one completly disassembled... hahah this wil be fun... oh and i got engine mounts that fit the KE20 :) got it all really cheap! iv got it for the price of the street slicks! Edited June 4, 201511 yr by SM Hunter Report
June 5, 201511 yr comment_697671 2TG for the win! I look forward to seeing what you do with this one. Report
June 5, 201511 yr Author comment_697680 I'm planning to use this 2tc Block with all the 2TG gear.. but iv read that i have to use the tg pistons and that i have to block off something in the cam? hmm i have the TG dummy cam but what else do i need to do? 2tc from my carina :) head off Cam out test fitting new head need LOTS of ther parts :) i just love theese! Report
June 5, 201511 yr Author comment_697684 atleast not a TG! started to clean test fitted to the body i got with it :) can anyone tell me if i can use the TRD oil pump for street use? says "for racing only" or something like that on the box.. Report
June 10, 201511 yr Author comment_697825 TRD oilpump WHOA! all this for 1500 aud! the car, the engine gearbox, all this, streetslics for 1000$ spacers from 4x110to 4x100, wide 4x100 wheels pistons out, rod bearings are great! 2tg to the right, 2tc to left... started cleaning shorter cam, need to block off the 3 rearest bearings! need to take the bearings out, then turn them so the oil hole does not line up with the one in the block... iv been able to take the cam bearings out , this was my tool, now the oil pressure is preserved! iv also painted the valve cover polert trompeta rensin av ventiler og sliping, fikk bare slipt 3 da.. Report
June 11, 201511 yr comment_697845 Looks identical to the 18RG really. So, don't skim the head unless you really have to for a small warp, the compression is all done with different pistons. Don't mix TG and C rods. We used mixed rods and they couldn't be balanced as the weights were so different. Get it all balanced if you can. The 18RG was a growly tractor motor that didn't like to rev easily so we had it all balanced. One pair of G cams didn't have the plugs in the rear, so didn't build up oil pressure as they should. Some cam grinder forgot to put them back in. The sump is prone to oil surge (which is how Steve spun the bearing & wrecked the motor) so overfill the oil as a lot gets left up in the head when its running. We changed the dipstick setup to read full with an extra half a litre in after we had checked how deep the crank dips into the sump. You can weld extra baffles in the sump if you're going to thrash it on tarmac, gravel doesn't build up a lot of lateral G forces.. No drifting or doughnuts on tar! Some guys measure the tappet gaps without any shims in, put in the ones they can and then have the valves ground at the top to get the right gap. The official way is to order exactly the right size shim to give the right gap. As you grind the valves you will make the gaps smaller. Setting up the cam chains will drive you mad the first time- just keep practicing & make sure the cam timing is right. We had adjustable gears on the 18RG. If something doesn't seem dead right then do the plasticine check on top of the pistons to see how well the valves clear. The oil pump should have longer vanes in it to pump a greater flow. I can't see why you wouldn't use it on the road. It will be good to see how you go. A massive step up from the K motor! Solex twin carb Tuning Tips.pdf Report
June 11, 201511 yr Author comment_697859 Thanks alot! will sertanly look into baffles in the sump or something, i was starting to learn to drift with the orginal 3k so with a 2tg i can't imagine it will be easier to drive normal... aftar all it is a rally car with road tires! Then its time for rods, i will not mix rods and pistons, but i will mix rods and crank no wonder why this was suffering from rod knock... oil holes did not match.. changed to the 2tc bearing, new valve stam seals cleaning and grinding the valves got the pistons in everyone here knows it... toyota is the best! Edited June 11, 201511 yr by SM Hunter Report
June 12, 201511 yr comment_697867 no wonder why this was suffering from rod knock... oil holes did not match.. Ouch! Someone missed something important there! Report
June 12, 201511 yr Author comment_697890 made my own tool to remove valves :) takes about 30 sec each valve when you are 2 persons... you need to be strong tho... and now for something thechnical.. iv monted the bottom chain, mached the bright links in the chain with the marks in the sprockets... then i just do the same with the others? this is just placed out for illustration but its this "simple" right? atleast in theory Report
June 13, 201511 yr comment_697901 yep- I think you'll find you need the timing chain cover on before the head, so be careful not to drop the chain (or anything else) down the hole. I kept a length of wire through the chain links when I had it open. Ours leaked between the head and the timing chain cover before we had it apart, so use sealant around there. Also, put a rag in the hole to catch the joining link if you have to take it off to move a cam gear. You'll need the cams and chains organised such that the joining link is accessible at the top. We had on the edge of the exhaust cam gear. Our valve spring compressor was similar, but we mounted it an old drill press for extra leverage. You will see how similar the motors are, 18RG & 2TG. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30 Report
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