Yep, the RA40 one does as well, and a mm thicker in diameter is a noticeable change in hamdling.

Yep, the RA40 one does as well, and a mm thicker in diameter is a noticeable change in hamdling.

 

Well thats good to know, gonna have to keep my eye out for one at the wreckers.

So I finally found the time to finish my exhaust today, and it sounds real nice, has a nice rasp to it at about 3500rpm and onwards but not too loud so hopfully won't attract to much attention.Also fitted my steering wheel but needed to modify the boss kit to fit properly as the self cancel and horn contact did not line up (even tho the ebay seller said it was for a ke70) looks to be off a seca or somthing.

 

 

 

Oh I almost forgot, I done the points gap on the old girl aswell and what a difference it made runs 10 times better and acutely pulls from idle now, before it had no bottom end power and was easy to stall not to mention trying to do a hill start "forget it" but it's really fun a zippy now, I'm very happy with the way it runs now :D

Oh I almost forgot, I done the points gap on the old girl aswell and what a difference it made runs 10 times better and acutely pulls from idle now, before it had no bottom end power and was easy to stall not to mention trying to do a hill start "forget it" but it's really fun a zippy now, I'm very happy with the way it runs now :D

 

Well well, things you learn! Now do the rest of it- set the tappets, check the timing and tune the carb... You might be surprised all over again!

 

I reckon they're a fun car to drive.

Well well, things you learn! Now do the rest of it- set the tappets, check the timing and tune the carb... You might be surprised all over again!

 

I reckon they're a fun car to drive.

 

Funny you should say that, I was just thinking about doing the tappets and may aswell check the timming while I'm at it.The last owner (of my wagon) was a mechenic for NRMA and said he recoed the head and put a carb kit through it (still have the box for the carb kit in my glove box) so I beleive it had been done, as for the head I can't say for sure but I did a compression test and it read 150psi, 152psi, 151psi & 147psi so it may have been done, either way seems to be in good heath for a 30 year old engine.

My rims finally arrived yesterday, now to get some wheel nuts to fit them and some new tyres.Test fitted one and they sit right out in the guards, may need to flare the guards not sure yet.

 

Edited February 18, 201412 yr by stu84ke70

The compression test is an indicator of the health of the rings, not the head.

The valves are in the head, and if the valves arent sealing properly, then it will show up in a compression test.

The compression test is an indicator of the health of the rings, not the head.

 

Yep, what ke70dave said.

If the valves were burnt out it'd run like shit.

What about if one valve is burnt? I had that once, and it was causing a bit of a misfire on that cylinder. And it showed up on the compression test that that cylinder was low on compression.

 

The wet and dry compression test can be used to get an idea if the low compression is caused by rings or valves. You do the test like normal, then you put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder and test it again. If you get a drastic increase in compression then you deduce that the oil is making the rings seal better, if there is no drastic increase then you can deduce that it is a valve that is still not sealing properly. (or the headgasket is blown across either the water/oil gallery or another cylinder, at which point the head has to come off anyway)

 

150ish across all four, you gotta be happy with.

Edited January 7, 201412 yr by ke70dave

Nice explanation - fair enough, I may have jumped on that one prematurely. I guess my point was there are other symptoms to those particular problems - misfires, oily or bubbly water, watery oil etc.

 

I just see so many mis-diagnoses here.

 

Heck last week one guy replaced his timing chain because the white paint on his fan belt was jumping around under a timing light.

Edited January 7, 201412 yr by Mechanical Sympathy

I just see so many mis-diagnoses here.

 

yeah we try and keep a lid on mis-diagnosis as much as we can, but not always easy to catch it all. Be sure to let the mods know if you find stuff that is blatantly wrong and we can delete.

Got myself a pair of xt130 struts for the ae71 the other day, tierod ends, and some steering arms but have not got xt130 LCA.I will modify the steering arms myself to get my lock back and as for the LCA's I don't see why I need them as I don't want negative camber, and once lowered it should take out any positive camber.It has been a bit of mucking around getting them in and I still haven't finished yet, I will post photos when it's done.I also did not know you had to flip the spring and use the ke70 top hat/spring retainer.

Edited February 18, 201412 yr by stu84ke70