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Betsy - The Little Ke30 That Knew She Could


Robski

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Sorry guys and gals I went over my calculations and found that the original rim was in fact 13x5. So I re-measured and re-calculated and the numbers above should be now correct. Personally I am leaning towards running 15x7 (ET12) at all four corners due to the numbers showing that it is as close to stock positioning, as well as keeping within the original guards (without rolling).

 

As stated above just need to check the full lock measurements to see if there is room to move up front with the 15x7s.

 

Although I also need to check the distance between the rear rim and the leaf springs (or anything else that may foul it). For, as long as I have the room, I can get the diff cut down to accommodate the width of wheel that I am wanting to run. HMMMMMMM may have to look at that tomorrow. :hmm: For thicker rubber at the back will allow more power to be delivered successfully to the ground.

Edited by Robski
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Chasing 270 is a nice number for a light corolla I managed dipping into the 11's with exactly that power sleepercorty managed it with 240ish but his 30 was lighter than my 55. There was a slippery centre and 4.11 on eBay for $200 a few days ago when I got my 3.45s to swap out for my 4.11. You have chosen well going 4.11 it made my corolla a very snappy little beast.

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Chasing 270 is a nice number for a light corolla I managed dipping into the 11's with exactly that power sleepercorty managed it with 240ish but his 30 was lighter than my 55. There was a slippery centre and 4.11 on eBay for $200 a few days ago when I got my 3.45s to swap out for my 4.11. You have chosen well going 4.11 it made my corolla a very snappy little beast.

That's very encouraging to hear Shane, seems as though I'm on the right track then. Thanks for the support . So your power delivery must be pretty decent, if you don't mind me asking what sort of suspension setup do you have on your Rolla??

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Rear : Koni adjustables in the rear reset leafs with a thick helper spring (stops tramp) Front: unknown shock and king spring super lows

 

I now use ET Streets for rear tyres before I used Falken RT series tyres which I thought had good grip till I bought the ET's

Edited by OKE055
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Did all the measuring and looks like there is around 45-50mm between the wheel and the leaf springs at the rear. This means that if I go to a 15x8 (ET +25) at the rear I should still have plenty of room between the wheel and leaf springs, it will push the wheel out by 54mm (setting the wheel inside the original lines of the car) and give me around a 75mm dish. Where as I will still stay with a 15x7 (ET +12) that will once again push the wheel out by around 52mm (setting it inside the original lines) and again give me around a 75mm dish.

 

That ROCKS, enough said!!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

What brakes and diff you running in it mate? those tramp rods look hardocre... but guess youll have a shit load of power. Do you need to cut the tunnel to do the sr20 conversion?

And how did you work out the above measurements?

I got a 71 rn25 hilux diff in my car but am struggling to ft bf facon 16x8s on it (keeping in mind rn25 diff is the same width as the ke30 one). I got bout 10 mm tub clearance, bout 5mm leaf clearnace and 9mm guard clearance with the 35 offset falcon wheels, this is with 215/45r16. You gunna run flares?

 

post-16294-0-40786900-1391427452.jpg

 

post-16294-0-27336800-1391427477.jpg

 

Just think you being a little too ambitious with your wheel offsets unless you tub it. But give it a go anyway :)

Edited by maccat01
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What brakes and diff you running in it mate?

 

I'll be running a cut down R31 diff with 4.11 Borgy and LSD. Haven't had it cut down yet, but if my calculations for the offset are correct I will just make it the same size as the original diff. Brakes (Rear) will be the R31 discs and calipers etc. (Front) will be a Hopper Stoppers kit, 290 or 300mm.

 

Do you need to cut the tunnel to do the sr20 conversion?

 

I am not sure if I have to yet. I'm running a SR20DET with a RB20 gearbox (brings the shifter 50mm further towards the engine bay).

 

And how did you work out the above measurements?

 

The calculations are on page 2 and the start of page 3. Feel free to check them for this is my first time working out offsets so it would be good for a second opinion.

 

You gunna run flares?

 

Nope, no flares. I am hoping to fit everything within the original guards. I have no objection to rolling and lipping the guards, however I would like them to look as stock as possible.

 

Love your build by the way Dave and always value your feedback. I always have the option to run 15x7 (+12) at all four corners (which I have been told from a few people gives a good flush look) but would love for some fatter rubber at the business end.

Edited by Robski
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Build Update

Hey Guys and Gals,

It has been a while since I have had time to get out in the garage and do some work on Betsy, but today I was finally able to get out there for the day. There are a couple of other Items that I have obtained and filed away for later use as well.

 

Item No. 1:

The R31 Diff that I managed to pick up from a friend of a friend for $100. This will be shortened with a 4.11 Borgy and LSD. As well as this it came complete so it also has R31 discs/calipers (Rear brake upgrade), panard bar (that may be able to be modified to suit, & handbrake cable.

 

post-16959-0-30616600-1391502609_thumb.jpg

post-16959-0-83890800-1391502675_thumb.jpg

 

Item No. 2:

RB20 gearbox. This will be coupled with the SR20 Bellhousing to bring the shift position around 50mm closer to the engine bay.

 

post-16959-0-74662000-1391502706_thumb.jpg

 

Item No 3:

SR20 Bellhousing, to be used with the above item.

 

post-16959-0-84248900-1391502738_thumb.jpg

 

Now all I need is the engine to go with these items. :bash:

 

Today I decided to begin the cleanup of the aftermath that was the front windscreen, LOL, yes it has been sitting there for that long. As can be seen from the photos I had a couple of cans of Rust Converter and Super Etch Primer lying round so I utilized these and cleaned up the engine bay as well as the front interior and rear seat foot wells before I ran out of the Etch Primer. If it is any indication about the lengths I am going to go on the rest of this build I dare say it is going to be very very clean, lol. I say this for as can be seen in the photos ....... I even cleaned up the rubber plugs that go into the front driver side floor, but I must say under all that dirt and grime they were in surprisingly fantastic condition.

 

post-16959-0-54444700-1391502771_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-65769400-1391502799_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-07013300-1391502830_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-85995200-1391502856_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-19406200-1391502879_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-62399600-1391502938_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-49806800-1391502985_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-70869400-1391503035_thumb.jpgpost-16959-0-41730900-1391503083_thumb.jpg

 

Will be more to come so stay tuned.

Edited by Robski
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Looking good bud.

If you getting the diff cut down to identical size as ke30 dif then I can't see you running 12 offset. I posted above some pics and my measurements. When my discs are on the car thay will push the wheel out another 10mm caus of rotor mounting face so ill have to roll the guards and maybe flare them out a little. But that will give me an extra 10mm clearance to the tub and leaf springs. I'm pretty sure with the right offset wheel you'll get 9 inch tyres under the rear end :-D. Not real wide but with a good set of yokohama advans or similar should have plenty of grip.

The stock falcon tyres are on there atm so are a bit tall but are still a pretty good indication of clearance. My rear end is also dropped three inches as well which was a miscalculation on my part haha.

Edited by maccat01
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I just checked your working on ya rear offset.

My wheels are 8 inches wide so check the above pics if your offset is 12 then youll deffo need to flare the guard as they will be 23mm out further then mine. And the above pic is without the discs mounted too. When its out the extra 10mm then the Guards will need rolling on my car. So if you go 13mm out pass that then youll need a small flare job. Although I recon they look good with the rear flared out abit as it matches the front better and gives it an extra line below the rear doors. Classly stuff :-)

Edited by maccat01
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Yeah I have been talking with a few people and I think my measurements or calculations are out somewhere. I will have to go back and check them again. However a couple of people have told me that 15x7 (0) front and 15x8 (0) rear will work. I'll have to look into this further.

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If you want 0 offset and huge dish then your diff will need to be 35mm a side shorter then normal. Or flip side you can run 35mm flares. My rear is sitting flush with body at +35. If you want I can get some better pics for you to show clearance. Just let me know.

Are you measuring to the hub mounting surface inside the rim. I also made a mistake measuring first up but then measured rim width and halfed it then drew a line mid way around inside of wheel to see 0 offset. I did try 0 offset globe wheels off a bathurst gtho and couldnt lower the car over the wheels lolol. Would have needed two inch flares... like a torana slr hahaha

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I really like that the r31 diff comes with a panhard bar. Should really stiffen up the rear end. I was just too cheap to get a diff shortened lolol. Do you know if the nissan lsd is clutch type?

 

To tell you the truth I haven't looked into completing the diff yet, sent a few emails to get some quotes and stuff but not much more than that at the moment. More focused on the bodywork currently (when I get the time). But it is on my to do list LOL. As for the LSD I am not 100% sure if it is clutch type or not.

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