OKE055 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) I believe the LSD centre is a cone type, as I'm running an falcon centre I'm not sure if they are all they same but would assume they are. they can be shimmed up so they are tight. I think KAAZ does a clutch style option for the BW78. If any of that helps Edited February 9, 2014 by OKE055 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Got a couple of hours today so I finished cleaning up the inside floor and primed the rest. Got to try out the new spray gun. Worked well and is so much quicker than using spray packs. As well as the boot area. And here is another pic of the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indelible Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 is there a reason you etch primed inside before modifying the gearbox tunnel for shifter hole? just curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1414 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 is there a reason you etch primed inside before modifying the gearbox tunnel for shifter hole? just curious He is going to use a rb20det gearbox. Will come out in the stock position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indelible Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) He is going to use a rb20det gearbox. Will come out in the stock position. are you sure about that? position wise coz i'm 99% sure it wont be in stock position Edited February 14, 2014 by indelible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 He is going to use a rb20det gearbox. Will come out in the stock position. The RB20 Gearbox brings the shifting position back around 50mm towards the front of the carfrom that of the SR20 Gearbox. This will still need modification and cutting. is there a reason you etch primed inside before modifying the gearbox tunnel for shifter hole? just curious However the reason for the Etch Primer on the entire flooring was due to not knowing how long it will take to get to the engine/gearbox. Presently I am going to be focused on bodywork and do not want any unnecessary rust coming through the flooring (which is still in great condition for the age of the car). So the Rust Converter and Primer is more of a preventative measure while other things are on the go. Maybe some people see this as a unnecessary step but I see it as protecting the investment of a great condition car. Thanks for the feedback guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I never doubted you. Good work :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maccat01 Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Looking good rob. Do you know what colour you going to be painting it at this stage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Not 100% sure yet. I could go one of two ways. Option 1: Choose a colour that is the modern version of the original but has a metallic finish (I know the BF Falcon had a similar colour). Option 2: Celestial Blue (a Mazda colour) I am leaning towards Option 1 however I would like to know what your thoughts are. I am also open to any other suggestions at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maccat01 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Yeah looks good mate. Go well with plenty of chrome :-). Hows the body work coming along. I dread bodywork... last thing I'm doing lolol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maccat01 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 I finally got my crossmember back so can now mount engine and box and weld floor in. Then ill be in the same place as you. Are you gunna be using dynamat or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maccat01 Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Did you work out wheel offset yet or you too busy with the body work? Do you know if you gunna two pack it or acrylic it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Did you work out wheel offset yet or you too busy with the body work? From what I have been hearing and the calculations I have made. I believe that 15x7 (ET 0) front and 15x8 (ET 0) rear should fit. Do you know if you gunna two pack it or acrylic it yourself? As for the paint. I have very limited funds so I'm considering doing a Japanese / Rat Rod style (this is only an idea at the moment) so that I can allocate more funds into the other (more important) areas like suspension, engine and drive line. If I do go for the Japanese / Rat Rod concept then it WILL be bold and a love it or hate it car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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