Robski Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Getting prepared to spend a day in the garage with Betsy on Wednesday (if everything goes to plan). I have my daily booked in for a service so the mechanic will drop me off at home then pick me up in the arvo when they have finished, door to door service. So I will be without transport. However I have today gone and gotten supplies so that the clean up / rust repair / rust removal can begin. I will post more pics after Wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Hey Guys and Gals, Not much has been happening with Betsy lately, I have finished removing the wiring loom, YAAAAAY!!! As well as the engine bay is now completely stripped, and the steering column has been removed. Oh and I started on some small rust repairs. I have only taken a few spots back with the wire brush (pretty rough at the moment) plans to use the orbital sander on them later, sprayed them with the rust converter to stop the spread of any specs i may have missed and then put a coat of primer over them, just to safe guard. I have also ordered my block mounts, rubber mounts, gearbox cross member & complete bolt kit for the SR20DET through Jordanrolla. Heard a lot of positive things about his conversion kits, as well as it takes a lot of the messing around out of it (my thoughts). Can't wait to get them and see how we go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Hey guys and gals, Not so much a Betsy update but more of an organizational update. Got some more of the Garage organised so as I have more room to work. As can be seen from the photos, new shelving under the bench, a hanging board to get things up and out of the way & finally I got my engine mounts from Jordan, cheers mate they look awesome. More to cone soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 (edited) Just a small update. Lucked out yesterday and scored myself an R31 diff (complete) from a friend of a friend. Now just for a road trip to Bendigo to pick it up. As well another mate has given me a, practically new, mini spool to go with the diff. So now all I need are some 4.11 gears and a cut down. Also I was suggested by another forum member to check out a company from the US called Fortune Auto for coilovers. The distributor of them is Manon Racing Products (MRP) in NZ. So I emailed them got a quote for their 500 v4 coilovers that they will custom make for the KE30 at $900 delivered. I think it sounds pretty decent for a shinny new set of front coilovers. I have been reading a lot of revi on them (for other cars) and they seem quite solid. So I may have to just bite the bullet and be the guinnie pig. Here are some pics of the coilovers What are your thoughts?? Edited March 11, 2014 by Robski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doogs Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 On a couple of hot rod restoration sites they suggested that you don't take it back to bare metal if the original paint is still in reasonable condition. They explained this by stating that the original paint was applied under the best possible conditions in the factory therefore if you can don't remove it. They continued explaining that you should just repair any rust spots then scuff up the original paint with some 240-320 grit and then prime, undercoat and paint over the top. Now me not being as well rehearsed in restorations as some of you guys and gals would like to hear your thoughts on this. Couldn't agree more mate, that's a good way to go about it. Cool build, I have another mate with a set of those MRP coilovers and he is pretty happy with how they behave. What spring rate did you have in mind and what are you going to run in the rear end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Couldn't agree more mate, that's a good way to go about it. Cool build, I have another mate with a set of those MRP coilovers and he is pretty happy with how they behave. What spring rate did you have in mind and what are you going to run in the rear end? Thanks for the feedback, I am pretty much sold on trying these coilovers out. :thumbsup: As for the entire setup here is a rundown of the bits and pieces I will be looking at including in the suspension. - Fortune Auto 500 v4 coilovers in the front with 8k or 10k springs + radial bearing mounts - T3 Front Lower Control Arms - T3 Tension Control Rods - T3 Negative Camber Roll Center Adjusters - McDonald Bros Track (Tramp) Rods - McDonald Bros Panhard Bars - Nolothane Bushes all round - Most likely a custom sway bar. That will start us off and then it will be a matter of getting the setup correct through testing. :yes: Any thoughts??? Do you guys and gals think this will be a good starting point?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doogs Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Springs sound a bit stiff to me. You have quite a shopping list there! Must not have the same budget problems as me lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Springs sound a bit stiff to me. You have quite a shopping list there! Must not have the same budget problems as me lol. What would you suggest for the springs (I'm relativity new to this whole thing)??? I am under the realization that 'YES' things will be changed and altered on the fly but I would like to get as much correct first off as I can, so as it only needs tweaking once on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 As well another mate has given me a, practically new, mini spool to go with the diff. Been doing some research myself on the mini spool and the information that I was fed is actually incorrect. So as it lies I will be looking to go for a LSD not the mini spool just for drivability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) Moment of insanity is over, the Betsy project WILL CONTINUE!!! Edited January 3, 2014 by Robski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Small update on Betsy. As you guys and gals are most likely aware, I had a small moment of insanity and put Betsy for sale both on here and on eBay. This was due to me doubting if it was even possible for me to continue let alone complete this build. This lapse was (I think) due to the new bubs being almost here, working unheard of hours at work, and then coming home to work on the house. However after talking tonight with another mate I soon received the reassurance I required. Now all glass but the rear window is out. I tried to get the front window out in one piece but as you can see from the pictures I failed and the loud POP of the window made me jump. So I tarped the inside and out came the hammer of Thor to knock it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I had a small moment of insanity I know this feeling. I try and sell mine once a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOMMYS Ke 11 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 You need to take the locking trim out before you can remove the windscreen ( I know this is a bit late ) but now you will know for next time ;) the rear window will be the same , good luck with the build and keep at it :thumbsup: . Cheers:- Stuart ( Thomas dad ) :wave: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 You need to take the locking trim out before you can remove the windscreen ( I know this is a bit late ) but now you will know for next time ;) the rear window will be the same , good luck with the build and keep at it :thumbsup: . Cheers:- Stuart ( Thomas dad ) :wave: Thanks for that Stuart, because I will be replacing all the seals in the whole car I actually cut the inside of the seal with a Stanley Knife, so that it was only the horrible tar like gunk that they use holding it in. Next time i know not to start at the corner of the windscreen for the weight and lack of flex in it was what made it go POP!!! And thanks for the vote of confidence in the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robski Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) I have been mulling and calculating wheel offsets over the past 24hrs and this is what I have found so far (of course this is what I will be running, but may be of some help to others) Now just to set the scene this was done late at night so please correct me if I am off the mark. The original size wheel for a KE30 was a 13x5 (or at least that is what Betsy had on her) The mounting point for the wheel to car was 4 inches in from the inside of the rim therefore being 1.5inches of positive offset from the centre (0 offset). 1.5inches = 38.1mm therefore the offset of the original (wheels I had on Betsy) is 13x5 ET+38. Now the fun begins. First using a straight edge (level) and a ruler I measured the distance between the outside of the original rim and the inside of the guard, which was around 57mm (remembering this was done late at night. Then playing round with the wheel sizes as well as the offsets this is what I found. Remembering I want the new rims to sit inside the original lines (rolling of the guards or lipping them is also an option if needed). 15x7.5s (ET 6) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 64mm further out. But then I found out the rims I was after don't come in 15x7.5 :bash: So after much fooling round with the numbers this is what I ended up with (fingers crossed it is right). Front 15x7 (ET12) will pull the wheel 1mm further away from the strut and push the entire rim 52mm further out. Giving me 5mm (of the un-rolled guard) to play with. However I am still yet to investigate the rubbing or turning (full lock) to see if it hits anything. Rear 15x8 (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 76mm further out. Making me have to roll the guard to find an extra 19mm. Now if I was to go 15x9 at the rear which I am still considering (due to AWESOME factor :rocknroll: ) the best option I found was 15x9 (ET -13) for it will be in the same position as opposed to the strut and push the entire rim 102mm further out. Reason I'm leaning away from this is that I will definitely have to roll the guards to allow for that extra 45mm, or maybe even run flares (which is something I do not want). Other option The other option is to just run 15x7 all round and fill the guards out with spacers (if needed). So now as for the rim selection this is what I was looking at: Diamond Racing - Pro Street Wheel I would go for a simple white wheel and run 205/50 at the front and 225/45 at the rear so that they really fill those guards, while maintaining the original lines. I think these wheel would maintain the retro styling that I am aiming for as well. What are your thoughts guys and gals??? Also took delivery of my gearbox today. Found a nice RB20 box that is incredible and the price was great so ...... (I can already see some of you shaking your heads .... BUT) I know I am yet to acquire an engine to go with the gearbox YET!!! but when there is a good deal you have to just jump at it. I will post more pictures soon, I promise. Edited January 17, 2014 by Robski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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