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Dustin's Ke70 4Age 20V


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You can run the J160 box with a Niteparts adapter plate, its only $700 odd... The Leen is nice but it costs thousands.


The T-series box will do, but if I were you I would price the gearbox rebuild and see how it compares to an imported Altezza box for about $700 & a Niteparts plate for the same. The Altezza ratios are far far better than the T-series, especially in the 3rd to 6th area.


Here's a chart of the revs drop between gears for the K50, T50 & J160. I left 6th gear off, but you can see how much smaller the revs drop is when you change gear in the J160.


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The Leen is nice but it costs thousands.


agreed... this isn't for everyone..... but for $3400* you get a bolt in ready 6 speed - adapters, shifter relocation, clutch disc and J160 - all included.


* - $3400 also includes shipping from Ireland to the USA, shipping to other places may change the cost.


As you stated, the niteparts and the J160 sets you back $1500 and doesn't include the shifter relocation, nor a properly spline 200mm, or 212mm clutch disc, nor shipping. One question - Does the Niteparts plate necessitate a input shaft extension? The LEEN does, and it, along with the input shaft bearings are included.



edit - Again I do apologize to the OP for this thread diversion... (background)The AZ6 project was my idea way back in 2006, and I tried to pull it off without success(over $7000 spent on devlopment). LEEN took up the challenge, and once completed for the original client(over $10,000 spent), I got involved and have been assisting with its continued development. So when B.L.Z.BUB referred to it as a "pity" it did get my hackles up, because we have invested a great deal of time and money to bring this option to the T50 plagued owners.



As far as AZ6 gear ratios....


S15 6 spd 3.626 2.200 1.541 1.213 1.000 0.767

NISMO 2.907 1.989 1.537 1.218 1.000 0.862

RX8 6 spd 3.760 2.269 1.645 1.187 1.000 0.843

Miata 6-spd 99- 3.760 2.269 1.645 1.257 1.000 0.843

SXE10 6 sp 3.874 2.175 1.484 1.223 1.000 0.869 <---- J160

TRD(33030-SE100) 3.106 2.175 1.585 1.223 1.000 0.869

T50 3.587 2.022 1.384 1.00 0.861

T50TRD1 2.341 1.607 1.195 1.00 0.886

T50TRD2 2.630 1.891 1.384 1.00 0.861

FRS 3.626 2.188 1.541 1.213 1.000 0.767


Oh... didn't you know the GT86/FRS/BRZ uses a version of the AZ6??? Almost ALL the same ratios as the S15 version......



Some more info.... LEEN has done some experimenting.... the S15 6th gear can be fitted inside the J160 transmission. This means the O/D can be improved further... Additionally we believe... but as yet not tested, that any gear from any version can be used together.


And even more information.... The J160(Altezza/IS200) outer case is the strongest/stoutest of the lot (S15, Altezza/IS200, Miata, RX8), the other 3 (both Mazdas, and the Nissan) use a slightly smaller case.... Here is a photo showing the Nissan bell section fitted to an RX8 transmission



Edited by oldeskewltoy
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Does the Niteparts plate necessitate a input shaft extension?


No, it is a very simple system. The plate is 14mm thick, so you take the J160 bellhousing off and machine 14mm off the g'box side, then put it back on and bolt it up to the plate on the motor. That preserves the distances and you use the Altezza clutch plate spline system.


You also have to grind out the bell housing where the starter goes in, taking a curve of 10mm to zero out of the housing over about 30mm long by 15mm wide.


We were looking seriously at the Leen when Steve contcted Niteparts and they said they had one. I don't know why they haven't got it up on their site, this is the best possible solution to bringing a modern geabox with decent ratios to the 4AGE.

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  • 2 years later...

HOLY SH*T!!!!!!! its been a while since i have been on here. update since the last post last century haha still have the same gearbox issue i just learnt to live with it but i did buy a rebuild kit and another 2 T50 hopefully i can make one out of the three. on a sad note the car has been off the road for over a year as the engine was blowing a bit of smoke and all the rust i managed to find over the years :( but i still have it :). i never really did any more mods to it other then some old school hotwires and a 2 1/2 exhaust i bought some headers but couldn't fit them cause the collector was hitting the clutch slave cylinder, so they are just sitting in storage for now.

here's a couple of pics of my rig.




this is not photoshoped took me about 1000 goes to get this one shot prob my best photo i have ever taken.



so when i first got the car i took it for a roady and a tune, i drove it with this tune for about 2 years i always knew there was something wrong as it was real shitty down low over fueling and backfiring out of the throttle bodies, so had a mate that knew a little about tuning so i bought the software and cords to see what was happening. so we plugged it in went for a drive done some data logging, when we got back he was looking at the tune i got when i first got the car he had a look at the fueling map IT WAS TUNED FOR 20PSI TURBO ARRRRGGGGGHHHHH, don't know what kind of drugs they where on but must of been good stuff.

so the plan now is i'm waiting to find a shed so i can start to strip the hole car and find out how bad the rust is fix that and rebuild the engine, gearbox and diff.


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On 02/09/2017 at 2:25 PM, LittleRedSpirit said:

Holy shit I&#39;m sure it went twice as good and twice as far after that was resolved!

Mate and I did some tuning while I was driving it made it a bit better but still not there and it started to smoke to much think it could be either valves or blow by 

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30 minutes ago, LittleRedSpirit said:

 If it was that rich for that long you might have glazed the bores.  Try some thicker oil see if that helps the smoke.

I gotta do major rust repairs so while the engines out I'll break it down and rebuild it then I know the engine is good. Need to try and find a stock tune for the engine but I don't think a stock ecu will work cause the vtt has been removed.

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35 minutes ago, LittleRedSpirit said:

Its pretty easy to reinstate the vvt, Its just an on off solenoid and the wiring.  If your ecu can switch a wastegate it can run vvt.  Basically turn it on at 2000rpm and off at 6000 or 6500, its not helpful above those revs.

The engine never had one when i got it.

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