Having a bit of trouble putting back the front timing cover on a 4K with the sump on.

 

Someone has previously replace the bottom timing cover studs with bolts, so the timing cover can be removed with the sump still on. Took a bit of effort taking it off, pulling it at different angles etc. but it came out OK. Replaced the timing chain, dampener, and tensioner, since a pin popped out of the chain and made it loose, which weared grooves on the inside of the timing cover.

 

Thought I can just put the timing cover on but it has been a bit of a hassel. Initially the sump gasket below the crankshaft pulley kept pushing in with the lip of the timing cover, but I held the edge of the rubber gasket with pointy plyers and maneuvered the timing cover in.

The main problem is trying to fit the timing cover to the engine block to bolt it on. I can't seem to get both dowels through the timing cover, I can get the drivers side but not the passenger side. It looks like the water pump is causing a bit of restriction, and also the coolant drain plug thing in the front of the engine block, together with the rubber sump gasket needing to be compressed. Tried different combinations of putting in the bottom timing cover bolts to pull it down but no success. Looks like I have to drop the sump or take the water pump off.

 

Does anyone know any tricks to put the timing cover with the sump still on?

Hey Leon, I've done it before but its a bitch to do. Try removing the whole water drain tube. Assuming you're doing it in the car try also loosening as many sump nuts you can get to so you can get a little bit of downward movement at the front of the sump.

Hey Leon, I've done it before but its a bitch to do. Try removing the whole water drain tube. Assuming you're doing it in the car try also loosening as many sump nuts you can get to so you can get a little bit of downward movement at the front of the sump.

 

Yeah its been pretty frustrating. Doing it while the engine is in the car. Was thinking of removing the water drain tube but a bit afraid the threads in the block could stuff up with it being pretty old. But if that's what it takes I'll have to take it out. I'll try taking a few sump bolts out to pull it down a bit.

Been there done that ! Yes it is a bit of bitch of a job. I agree with your concern of taking out the front drain outlet from the block. They can be very corroded sometimes, & then you'll be in more trouble. First try undoing the sump bolts along the front end on both sides, & see if you can't lower in down a little. It will go in eventually.

 

Good luck !

 

Cheeers Banjo

Edited August 19, 201412 yr by Banjo

...and you can unbolt an engine mounts and lift the motor as much as you can until you can stick some timber spacers under the mounts. Another 50mm makes a big difference. I've forgotten what jams first, exhaust or bell housing.

I managed to get the timing cover on. I loosened the sump nuts. Did about 5 rows back, since I couldn't see the sump pull down off the front of the engine block. I tried anyway and the cover went on fairly easy. Probably could of got away with loosening just a few nuts. The front of the sump doesn't need to move down much, probably a few mm. Didn't need to remove the water drain. Haven't tested it yet. Just need to put back the fan and radiator hose etc. Hopefully there aren't any oil leaks.

Driven the car for a while now and can't see any leaks, so looks like the timing chain install was successful.

Was frustrating at first, but seems to be OK once you know how. Probably alright to do a camshaft swap with the engine still in the car. But would be better off to take out the engine to make it easier to get at things.

I loosened the sump nuts. Did about 5 rows back

This is what I was going to say, but you've already done it.

 

Thank the guy who replaced the studs with bolts, otherwise it would have been a full sump removal. Best mod you can do to a K motor after shimming the oil pump spring.