corollaTE27Fan Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Only had my KE20 a few weeks and never had one before so still finding my way around the mechanicals. Need to understand how the front brake disks come off so I can change my warped front disk and fit longer wheel studs. I can see 4 bolt heads which I assume releases the hub plate and then 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. If I remove these bolts will I be able to get the disks off? With regards to the rear drums I can't see any set screws holding the drum on and can't figure out how they come off. I can however see what look like four ribs in the very centre of the drum but again can't see how to turn this to release the drum I have a Toyota manual which has lots of great pictures of the front and rear brakes but sadly no notes on how to actually get to the discs and remove the drums. Any help/tips would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parrot Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) With the drums, back off the shoe adjustor by putting a flat blade screw driver in the slot at the top of the backing plate (on the rear side) and flicking the knurled wheel around a number of times. This brings the shoes away from the drum and you may well be able to wriggle them off. Often you can't, so you then put a bolt in each of the two threaded holes on the front face of the drum, and evenly wind them in with a spanner. This pushes the drum away from the internal axle face. Do it evenly and gradually. You may get a hell of a bang as the shoes let go. Be conscious that the brake linings may contain asbestos which will be in the dust inside the drum, so don't blow it around. If the wheel cylinders look at all like they have been leaking or the seals are swelling, replace them too (or put a kit through them if the bores are in good shape). With the front discs, unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way minimising undo strain on the brake hose. Remove the hub from the stub axle and put the disc hub assembly on the bench. Ideally you need to use an impact wrench with an air gun to undo the four bolts that retain the disc. If you don't have air tools, you may manage if you can hold the hub securely somehow and use a long bar. Use a torque wrench to ensure when refitting the bolts, that you have them tightened to specs. You will need to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper before refitting over your new discs, ensuring you keep an eye on the master cylinder so fluid doesn't overflow. Draw off about half the fluid from the reservoir beforehand. Consider getting a seal kit for the calipers. It's really easy to do. Edit: Obviously once the front disc is off, it is a simple matter to punch out the wheel studs. Wind the new ones in using a suitable spacer and a back to front wheel nut. Repack your wheel bearings before refitting the hub. The four ribs you refer to with the rear drum are actually the centre of the axle hub Edited October 5, 2015 by parrot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaTE27Fan Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Appreciate your reply Pete, just what I needed. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 For the rear drums, make sure the handbrake is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styler Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) Often there's a few brands of the same car manual, the manufacturer usually does multiple ones (motor, body and electrical) which can be expensive to get them all. The single aftermarket manual usually has the more common stuff in it from all areas but they can focus differently on areas, best get a few aftermarket ones to start off as they are cheap and more common. So if one isn't great in one area, the other may be much better. There really is so much info in manuals, its the way to go. Oh and an mains powered electric rattle gun and a penetrating spray go a long way, days of trying to clamp stuff and use a breaker bar are over, just make sure you get matching impact sockets to suit, long ones seem more useful. Good advice above, the front hubs have a press in cap which needs to be levered / tapped off gently, remove split pin and undo the nut holding the hub on. Regrease as advised with high temp bearing grease. Then retorque the nut the spec with a torque wrench, its a specific rating and has to be done to that spec. Always use a new split pin on reinstall. On the drums, often tapping the drum all round with a soft hammer and putting some penetraing spray on the hub spigot / drum hole breaks the rust that seizes them on. Then wind in some bolts bit by bit to release that drum off as parrots advised, do it evenly and slowly else they will strip out. There is a brake drum adjusting tool, made to shape and cheap, beats trying to bend the tip of a hardened screwdriver. And yeah, vac that dust out safely, do not blow it out. Edited October 6, 2015 by styler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaTE27Fan Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Thanks chaps I have found a Clymer and a Haynes manual for reasonable price in the USA for further reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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