Hey

I had my 4age running ruff but running .... And I come back the next day turn it over nothing, foot flat too the floor a little splutter of life. So I check the timing by turning it over its out. Getting it close by hand -5 deg, move the dizzy the slightest and it gone way off the grid. There is uncovered metal on my rotor down the face of it

What does that last sentence mean?

hope this helps

is it possible that i might be in diagnostic mode ? how do i stop this happening ?

Timing-

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/36541-whats-the-ignition-timing-on-a-16v-4age-supposed-2-be/

 

Although the one I was working on the other day felt flat at 15deg, so I put it back to 25, where it had been.

 

You will see any sparks jumping around the dizzy cap at night, or spray it inside and out with WD40 or CRC556 and that will stop any escaping sparks for a while. If it does short out around the damage in the center of the cap just buy another one.

Installed new rotor button and cab today and changed the timing between -15 to -20 still no luck. I'm trying to start it on start ya barstard. Or should I just be using fuel ? The car has no exhaust ? And the motor has been sitting for about two and a half years

harry, how technically minded are you?

I ask because an honest answer will help us construct our replies to get your motor up and running.

Have you personally had this motor running in the past?

Are you sure you have the plug leads in the right firing order, 1,3,4,2.

This is my first engine conversion, I have done a fair bit of reading before I started and during the conversion. I'm a pretty fast learner. Getting sick of turning the car over by hand though :( yeah sparking order is 1342

Ive just realised, you have been stating negative (-) timing numbers the whole time.

This is your problem. It should be positive 12 ish.

 

Or perhaps you are simply using the '-' symbol when you should be using the '~' symbol???

Positive as in clockwise of tdc ?

no, should be counter-clockwise. as in before TDC.

Are you looking at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley with a timing light for these figures? If not, you should be.

Yeah I am I have had the timing all the way from 25 btdc to 15 Atdc, going in Intervals of 5 deg. But I have had the car running ruff but running around 10 btdc. came back the next day tried to start it and it wouldn't start. So I moved the timing and since then about 5 days ago I can't seem to get the car close to running.

I also don't have a check valve on my vacuum line would this be an issue ? Other then that 99% sure vacuum lines are correct. Most are deleted

I have cleaned and flow tested injectors, have put a light (not a noid light but acts the same) and there is injector pulse there.

Where the coil is mounted it is a tad lose due to bad thread

 

ok, definitely just put the timing to 10 BTDC and leave it there. Set and forget. It can not be wrong unless somethign in the distributor is loose and throwing itself around when turning. (advance springs, rotor head, reluctor, bearings etc)

Take the main high tension lead from the coil, and rest it up against a part of the engine with the metal about 3 mm away from the nearest metal grounding point. Don't hold the high tension lead while you do this next step, it will really piss you off, make sure it is wedged somewhere where it can't move and will maintain this ~3mm gap.

Have someone crank the engine and watch the spark that jumps from the lead to the ground point. It should be nice and bright, ideally blue.

If it is, then you have good ignition and can move on to other things.

 

Next would be to actually pull an injector out and try start the car with an injector spraying fuel all over your garage. Its fkn dodgy, but it answers the question, am I actually getting fuel.

The fact you had the engine running shity previously suggests something temperamental, perhaps you've simply run out of fuel hah. has the fuel tank been sitting open?

Or maybe the fuel pump is not turning on at all. All this will be evident if you just try that simple yet dangerous trick.

Please make sure you have the high tension lead securely fastened again when you do this. better yet, disable the coil for this test, unplug it and make sure no wires are hanging close to metal.

 

If all is fine and you have fuel, suspect your camshaft positions in relation to the crankshaft. You can miraculously start and engine that is off a tooth or two and have it run like a pig, if you have a good starter motor and a good battery and good harness and some start ya bastard. Possibly this is how you got it running in the past if this is the underlying issue.

 

Leme know how all these test go, and please don't die.

Set it too 10 btdc and it ran woohoo, but not for long it died It sounds like the fuel is surging ?

So This is my fuel setup, I'm running a fake Bosch 044 I got off eBay it was advertised as real one but it's not ... And then just the standard ke55 fuel lines to stock 4age fuel filter

Oh and the fuel was closed air tight in the fuel tank for about 2 years I added 15 liters of 98 to it 2 days ago