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Ke70Daves New Euro Toy


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ah k, yeah mine is just a reconditioned OEM one.


Only other thing is that the speakers in the car are terrible. I think the front two speakers are wired out of phase, sound ok when your ear is right up to them but sound weird when listening normally. Might look at putting in some replacements. Will keep an eye on something cheap on ebays.


Oh and one other thing. Fuel pump seems to go continually when ignition is on (i'm using a different loom and fuel pump relay then before, old setup the pump prime worked and then stopped until engine started). I don't think its supposed to be on continually, but this loom and ecu is potentially from an earlier model. The fuel pump relay is where the system prime timing circuit is, which wouldn't surprise me if it was on the blink. But haltech will soon control fuel pump anyway so I'm not going to do anything about it at this stage.

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-Accelerator pedal fixed - i had the cable attached to the part where the optional cruise control would be fitted. swapped Accel cable to the other point which has more leverage, and pedal is silky smooth and nice and light.

-Headlights adjusted - now i can see at night.

-Jerkyness at low rpm seems to have been helped with the proper accelerator cable installation. dunno how, but it runs much better now, but not perfect.

-Brakes are at around 95% now. pulls up hard and straight and has some nice initial bite to the pads.

-Did find a small coolant leak in one of my radiator hoses, tightened it up which hopefully should have fixed it.

-Still haven't driven it very far from home base as the engine destruction still haunts me haha. Going to go for a long drive on the weekend, with a mate who can help push if needed! Just need to build confidence in the car.

-Car desperately needs new wiper blades - top priority!

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Well nothing too much to report form the weekend, which is a good thing!


Drove it around all weekend and drove it to work first time this morning, no issues, just cruised along nicely. Up to about 150km of driving since rebuilt.


A/C works super good, does take some noticeable power out of the engine though.


I do have a bit of a noisy gearbox it seems. "low frequency rumble" is probably the best way to describe it. Its not really that loud at all but the interior is so quiet on the car i can hear it. Based on the fact that it goes away when stopped but only when the clutch is depressed and in gear tells me its probably the lay shaft bearings. Google suggests its quite common on this box, with alot of people putting up with it for years.Gearbox itself shifts fine. I think for now i will ignore it:)


Starting to push the suspension and brakes a bit more, and revving the engine a bit. Certainly has some pick up to it, great little engine. Although i think there is more to be had with some better ignition timing. Apparently the ignition timing on the dizzy is really setup for smoothness, rather than outright power. And it certainly is smooth, but i want more power!

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New exhast fitted!


ended up putting a y-piece in down near the gearbox to convert the 2 x 1.75" into a single 2.25"with 2 mufflers. Didn't want to go any bigger for fear of drone....


Sounds alright, a bit louder than expecting, but pretty good. pretty quiet on cruise, but does drone a bit when your foot is down at low rpms. Sounds wicked at high rpms though.


I also got a wideband bung put in just at the collector. And i purchased a wideband as well. Hopefully get that in next weekend.


I've done about 600km now, no issues at all, super happy! here are some pics.




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  • 4 weeks later...

Okdokie, few weeks ago past....


not too much to report.


Was driving home the other day and the coolant temperature started getting a bit hotter than normal, rather than 1/4 where it usually sits it was up around 1/2 when stopped then would quickly drop back to 1/3ish when driving. Got it home only to realise i was missing around 3L of coolant....


Took me a while to find but there was a tiny crack in one of my heater hoses causing a leak. It wasn't until i was fiddling around with the idle for ages in the garage the other day that i found the puddle under the car. Luckily i had a new heater hose already off the other engine, so on it went. No more coolant issues it seems.


Reason i didn't pick it up sooner is cause the "low level coolant light" never came on. because it is broken. Thanks coolant light, you had one job and you failed.


I got my haltech and bosch idle up solenoid temporarilly wired in the other day. I got it to work quite well, took me a while to tune in the PID settings for the idle control. I got it to the point where i could set the idle target rpm and it would very nicely catch the rpm as it came down and hold it VERY steady. Best idle i have ever heard from the engine.


Unfortunately i couldn't complete the install as i didn't realise that the idle up relies on a TPS input to know when to turn on. And with no TPS it assumes that the tps is always at 0% and thus tries to target the rpm all of the time, which i think would stuff up normal driving of engine and might work the idle control valve too hard..I thought i could limit the idle control to only kick in under a certain rpm but unfortunately its under a certain TPS.


Issue is the OEM TPS is more of a throttle switch, it only has a switch for IDLE and a switch for Wide open throttle. I am currently trying to track down an E36 TPS as they can be adapted to the e30 throttle body fairly easily.


I am also in the planning stages of my new wiring loom. Having enough wires for full sequential injection and 10 spares for various potential outputs or other things it looks like i need approximately 42 wires going from ECU to engine bay.


The OEM wiring loom only uses about 10 wires so it doesn't help me.


One option is to buy a 100m roll of 1mm^2 cable and make it from scratch, issue with that is all the wires would be the same colour, so would need to make wire tags. I could go to the wreckers and buy a wiring loom off a straight 6 engine to get at least enough wires but i fear that may be too much work in modifying it to work. Or i could buy a universal wiring kit for the haltech, but they arent that cheap ($250ish or so).


I have purchased all theplugs i need to make the loom, i just need the wire!


Does anyone know where i can buy say 42 wires that are ~3m long that are all different colors? that isn't going to cost me the world.

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I may be onto something, My dad is an electricnian and he suggested i get a some multi core cable which is 24 cables inside one, strip out the wires and then use that. beauty is that in the multi core the wires all have printed numbers on them.


I might have to get creative in the way i do the loom, perhaps have a "main engine loom" which would be 24 wires (injectors, ignition and temp sensors) and then an "auxilary loom" for all the other random stuff. that way i can have the same numbered cable but in a different loom.


Heres the list....


Admittedly its probably a bit overzealous...but id rather have a few more wires going through firewall that i can use to run other stuff in the future. gauges etc.



Edited by ke70dave
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I like trailer wire for a cheapish wire source. Usually pretty reasonable by the metre or in pre packaged lengths of 5 or 7 metres if you look around and its 5/7 or 9 core usually. Maybe 30 bucks for 7metre lengths of 7 different colours. Catch being you have to cut it from its casing, but the casing is good and you could use 4x 7m 7 wire cables to get the correct number once cut in half. Some wire colours would repeat but you have them itemised inside different casings.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit
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ahh trailer wire is a good suggestion. I might buy some as I'm sure it will come in handy. Its pretty cheap off ebay.


I ended up heading over to dads house last night (hes an electrician) and gave me a 50m roll of 1mm^2 tinned wire. So looks like i'm going in the deep end of loom making this evening.....


Also bought 4m of microphone cable to use for my Crank sensor pickup. Potentially an overkill but it was like 12bucks from jaycar.


Also picked up my wideband, got an NGK powerdex with an NTK sensor. just gotta find a nice place to put it. it is a square box with a red digital read out.

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I sure did. Fitted it up yesterday. no pics unfortunately.


Went for a 30min drive or so, and the whole time i thought that the numbers seemed a bit lean......at wide open throttle i was getting 13s which seamed lean, idle i was up in the 15s and would even drop to 16+ (max lean reading) at times. very light cruise i could also see 16+ as well. It is a brand new NTK sensor and i calibrated it as per instructions.


After some investigation it turns out that what i thought was Exhaust gas re circulation is actually an auxiliary air pump pumping fresh air into the exhaust. You can see the pipes in the exhaust manifold below. BMW calls it a "pulse pump" or some such thing.




Fairly ingenious design in that it uses the pulse of one exhaust to push fresh air into the other exhaust via those air valves. Emissions thing to attempt to burn left over fuel in the exhaust, only on the very early m20b23 and only in Australia and Switzerland or something. After this they went to a more advanced fuel injection system which eliminated the need. Qutie a good idea, but not great when trying to read 02 readings accurately.


So next step is to block off that contraption and see if i get more reasonable readings.


I also started making my loom yesty, got most of the new wire cut and labeled. Will start soldering them to the haltech patch loom this week. Still waiting on my bosch plugs to turn up. Australia post is so damn slow these days.


In other news i also adjusted my tappets first time since rebuild (i got the engine shop to set them the first time), they all seemed a bit too tight. The manual specs 0.25mm both in and ex, mine were set to around 0.15ish or so across the board, which seemed strange. I had always thought that perhaps the they should make a bit more tappety noise, they were almost too quiet.


I set them to 0.25mm and holy dooly its a tappety tappety tappety mess now. Too much tapping. So not sure what is going on. Interwebs suggest that you can get some wear on the point where you adjust the tappets and thus you don't get an accurate reading. I might try setting them to 0.20mm and see how it goes.

Edited by ke70dave
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Soooo blocked off that exhaust thing, didn't change anything...


unless it was running at say 17:1, and now it runs at say 16.5:1 which is still 16+


Drove to work today in the blisering heat, A/C on full blast, and no overheating!


Did discover that my A/C outlet drips directly onto the exhaust though, which can't be good, might have to see about re-routing that.

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