Jump to content

Toyota Ke 70 Project Advise


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, My name is kevin and I'm from south Africa. bought a Toyota ke70 we called them here baby Cressida

its a 1983 1.8gl 3t motor stock your advise ad guidance will b appreciated.


my plans



I was advise not to change as the standard 3 motor very strong.

I have done viper branches you y call them extractors..gong to put a freeflow exhaust system not sue the setup of this as the sound looking for is more muscular v8 not sure if I can get this ?

gong to put weber car no sure if I should get 38 40 45 or double carb ?

going to gas flow head ported/ and 268 cam?

40 side drafts is delloroto a good brand ?


will this give e decent power as its a every day drive but also want it quick robot to robot.

I was told to shorten the conrods and change the gearbox to 1300 because of shorter gear ratios also was told to

make the ring gear thinner for higher revs and to be quicker is this true ?

want o also drift and spin at shows will I be able or need more power ?


suspension & brakes

do I need any upgrades on diff mods brakes ?


instrument cluster

does anyone know how much globes is needed for the cluster and heater?

do they take t10 wedge globes as going to fit led repaint revs and markings with model car paint has anyone one done this

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad

Well, the T motor wasn't so common over here, but what you plan is fine. Exhaust, a cam grind, a porting job and a single side draught carb will do the job, or twin 40 Webers/Dellortos if you think fuel is cheap.


I wouldn't worry about conrods etc unless you are going to race it. Lighten the flywheel certainly, that does help acceleration. I don't know what they rev to, but the design is like the 18RG tractor motor we used to rally on, rather than the high-reving low torque 4AGE we use now. Design it to use the torque to pull cleanly from low down, rather than concentrate it all at the top end. So keep the carbs & exhaust smaller rather than larger. I'd settle for a 2.25" exhaust, as larger will get more noisey but not any more 'muscular.'


The best thing you could get would be a limited slip diff, preferably OS Giken or a Kazz etc if you can't afford it. Find a 17mm rear sway bar if you can, or an 18mm. Chase RA60 Celicas, the last T-series live axles, at the wreckers if you can find any, their sway bars are a start.


You can buy a new 4.8 crown wheel and pinion for acceleration and drifting, but it will be tiring at 100kph, the usual trade-off. You should be able to find a 4.3 ratio in the auto version or somewhere.


It will work on the stock suspension & brakes, unless you're a Kappie and love those mountain passes! Then its time for bigger struts to take bigger front discs. Chop a coil and a bit off the springs, like you're not meant to but everyone does, or buy coil-overs.


Are you in with the Box Boys??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this past weekend rev the motor to 9rmp after that when starting her up in the morning or driving and changing gears

their is a grrrr sound vibration....so if i rev no sound when the rev drops checked and seen that the fan has slight vibration

6 fin can it be the fan or pulley?


was told that if i take the fan belt out and the noise is still there than it is timing chain ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be the water pump packing up or a metal fan blade cracked, so yes, take off the fan belt and see if the noise is still there. With the belt off you might feel some play in the fan or the pump shaft. Time to convert to electric fan if it is.


A loose timing chain makes a real rattle sound usually, maimly at idle & starting up as the tensioner relies on oil pressure.


Not just some metal plate on the exhaust or somewhere??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi rolla club hope everyone is doing well.


my 1983 toyota ke70 ignition shocked me.


this car is so easy to steal. I was filling my car with gas and took out the key the car was still on.. used my house key to switch off and on and

the car started.


what can be done for best security for ignition. change to a new ignition or from another toyota ?


i normally take the rotor out if i am at a high risk area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha- which part of South Africa ISN'T a high-risk area??


Even a new KE70 would be easy to steal. They break in, smash the steering lock, cut the key wires off with side-cutters and jump the ignition & starter then drive away.


Or once inside they could open the bonnet & run jump wires to coil and staeter activator wires if they wanted to.


The rotor is the best idea, even just the coil high-tension wire.


How about a motorsports kill switch on the battery & you take the key paddle with you?? Its cleaner than mucking around in an oily dizzy. You just have to make sure the wires can't be bridged, but I can't see car thieves taking time to disconnect your kill switch. Run the earth from down on the chassis up to the switch then to the battery. Cover the bare terminals in epoxy so they can't be bridged or unbolted, but then you will have that problem in the future.


Maybe painted black & mounted in the grill somewhere so you don't have to open the bonnet to get it. The problem there is some smart-arse might steal the kill switch paddle when you park anywhere, so don't make it noticeable.


Chain through the steering wheel?? Big wheel lock bar??


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like this-




Don't be fussed about which fan to use, whatever fits, and its much easier to use a new exteral relay instead of putting it inside the fusebox like I did.


Power the relay from the ignition & earth it through the thermoswitch, so it turns the fan on at 95deg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably the best carb is the newst one! Old worn carb bleed air in and get inefficient, but you have to use what you can find.


Twin Weber side-draught DCOE I reckon give most power, but will cost a fortune to buy and to run. Don't forget you will have to buy chokes and jets on top of the carb price to get it right. Great for racing or rallying.


A single DCOE will do the job just fine, as you can see from the image.


SUs are cheaper to run, as you can see from my build threads. I could make the car quicker with bigger carbs, but under 7L/100km is nice.


Newer carbs are on motorbikes, quads Mikuni or Kehins seem to work really well. Check out Tommys KE10.


Don't use a carb that is too big, they need a good flow velocity at low speed to mix the fuel correctly, and it is a pain to drive a car that bogs down every time you push the accelerator. Having great power over 5000rpm is no good if it dies down at 2000, which is where you take off from robots and stop signs.


The stock cams can help overcome the poor airflow at low revs, but if you re-cam it later then the bottom end gets really bad. The carb should be at maximum flow at your peak revs, and a lot of people have carbs that are probably only at 50% then. That means all the potential of the carb is wasted and they have lost a lot of performance in the low and mid range.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys


So my mechanic has done a check for me and his findings are.


My starter needs replacing as its burnt out so the car does not start tried towing to start still doesnt

he says my ring gear is turning and it should turn the fan whilst car off but if he turns ring gear its turning but fan is not.


so he is saying i need to drop the motor to check? my motor could be gone is this true ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...