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Hey everyone,

Just a question has anyone got a go to place/site for their carby needs for their KE10? I'm looking at one on Mikes Carburetor parts and I'm seeing if anyone has used it before and if its any good.

I have had some issues with my carby, I think the accelerator pump has one to heaven thus causing a flat spot/stumble/hesitation.

If not does anyone has any good recommendations?

I'm not sure if its allowed but ill post the link so you can see whats in the kit.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Toyota-Carburetor-Kit_p_4426.html

Once again, hopefully this can be answered which will give other members a great place to check and provide them with the information they are looking for.

Regards Fallen1

 

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7 minutes ago, rebuilder86 said:

quite a afew tags there mr taggy mctag spam

Probably not.

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Unless you are buying genuine, which isn't available, anything will likely be a compromise.

I think the local aftermarket kit was AN101.

Your best bet is often US ebay via the bulk part resellers, such as this one.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-1100-1968-1969-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-TO-4K-Royze-Carb/302584816141?epid=1361463495&hash=item467375e20d:g:JpoAAOSwP~tW35nV

But you never really know if you have everything you need till the carb is on the bench in pieces.

 

Queue inevitable follow up Q about new Chinese carbs!

 

 

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i recon its just well written spam haha. advertising the carbyparts store.

this is actually clickbait, the true definition of it, deisgned to put the website higher on google search.

Edited by rebuilder86

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I think you are losing it a bit there Jeremy.

I checked, and AN101 is the general overhaul kit for the early K carb. TO-4K is another part number used .

As you can see from the listing you posted, there are a substantial number of carbs that kit has to cover, so it is possible there may be subtle differences.  Whatever you buy, try to carefully remove the old gaskets so you can closely compare the old to the new and make sure they are the same.  Same goes for the old O-rings

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Jeremy,

Don't be flog.

Reasons why you're being a flog:

1. Complaining about TAGS

Explanation:

If you put a plethora of tags it makes searches easier so the next person wont have to ask the same question because he couldn't find an untagged thread. The tags need to be general but still directed to something someone would search for. ie: "My KE10 has a hesitation,".

2. Complaining it's spam

Explanation:

I'm from Australia, the carby store is in America, I'm asking if anyone has used it and I'm asking for referrals to other carby places local. Does this mean people who offer advice and links are click baiting. Sometimes you can stumble across things that haven't been seen before because of poor website designs and lack of the above aforementioned TAGS.

3. It's a car enthusiast/hobbyist/DIY forum.

Explanation: 

When you're on a site such as this you are generally going to ask questions and get helpful answers and better direction for your enthusiast/hobbyist/DIY project so asking if a product may be suitable for you and if there is a better one out there is completely justified. We are all in the same boat here and its flogs like you who ruin it with your salty/troll/passive aggressive/arrogant responses. Maybe someone might call you out for posting meaningless/unrelated garbage on peoples posts, just to drum up your own post count.

At the end of the day Jeremy, you might be trying to rustle jimmies but the ADMIN or MODERATORS will see it and wisen up to it pretty quickly. Keep your mind on the tools and your head under the bonnet and only post if you have some valuable input into a conversation.

Yours truly,

Fallen1 -  AKA - GeneratedClickBaitReplyMachine.exe 

  • Upvote 1

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Don't worry about Jeremy, he does that. And if he keeps doing we might have to start deleting things.

I personally have done a few carby builds over the years and have only ever used reproduction kits. Never had an issue. The needle and seat and the carby pump are the two important things. And the gaskets and o-rings are there to seal it all up which is all about correct installation. 

The last accelerator pump plunger thing i put in my suzuki was like a bit of leather on the end. looked dodgy, but it worked perfectly fine for a few yrs before i sold it. 

Do what parrot suggests and just take your time taking it appart so you can compare old parts to new before you swap them in. 

Have you tried the local parts shops? Buying a 30dollar thing from america seems annoying. 

 

 

 

 

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my apologies, but why are you offended. i was wrong. i get suspicious about first time posted with web links.
and i appreciate your use of tags, but no one does that haha thast why it looked suspicious!

please don't take offence. I just thought you were someone, something else :P

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anyway to your question,
I have used a cheap rebuild kit for this carb and ran into trouble with the accelerator pump leather plunger drying out and fracturing within a few months.
And having a look at the kit u posted (now that i know its not an ad :P), the pink colour of that plunger looks similar to the one i had issues with, now that doesnt mean that its going to be the same but take that into consideration.
However, i then replaced the stuffed plunger with a different one, form a local carby store in perth, and this one had a more brown tinge to it, and it has lasted ever since, in a car that stays dry for about 8 months a year.
Also, if that kit is exactly the right one for your carb, i am a good source of information as i have the exact carb and take it apart often, as i live in the worlds most dirty poluted road environment.
When you take it apart, be sure to have a good look at the condition of the inside of the slow jet. Its, brass yes, but when the fuel sits stagnant in them for some time, they can build up these white crystals, i have no idea what they are, but they completely block it. This slow jet is not pictured in your rebuild kit, because it doesnt usually break. but it does get crudded. so take time investigating it.

Another important and overlooked part is the power piston plunger, in the float bowl cover. It moves up and down all its life with little to no lubrication. It is never included in rebuild kits. Check it out and ensure it isn't scuffed. Scuff marks will cause the issues i had, where the vacuum was constantly leaking down the side of it, leading to a jolty kick at about 1700 rpm when booting it.

BTW all u had to say was, I'M A PERSON. :) 
I'm not a an ass hole, nor a "TROLL" whatever that is, i love to help where i can. as for everyone else,  I don't like being spoken down to tho like some inconsiderate stupid fool.
That's just most peoples interpretation of me for some reason. perhaps i need to change and stop being myself. I thought it was a light hearted response to a potential real person.
All i did was question you as a genuine first time poster.
There are far too many companies using web forums to advertise, and many forums have put in place automatic stops to fix it, but there are clever ways to get around it, by making a long post. Its just there are so many of these types of things all over the forums i frequent.
Please don't take offence. 

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