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Project Q - Sams 86 (many Tech Pics)


Sam_Q

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I borrowed an electrical pipe bender from my work to do the second pipe of my strut brace, not the first time I have used one of these benders for a project. It only needed a slight bend either end and is yet to receive the reinforcing supports because I am still making them. It also still only has temporary welds holding it together for now.

 

It was far from easy to do though as the first bend I did kinked straight away, so at each end I had to bend in two close together sections. Heres how it looks:

 

 

strutbrace04.jpg

 

strutbrace05.jpg

 

strutbrace06.jpg

 

 

All in all it has been a very tricky project but so far the work has really been worth it seeing that it's rock solid and weighs under 1.5kg so far. I still have a fair bit more work to go though.

 

 

this is one of the flat sections of plate that I used to make my brace before I welded it:

 

strutbrace07.jpg

 

It took me a considerable amount of experimenting to make these pressed holes properly. Using a lathe I made up a special die and 2 punches to get the right shape. I did it with one punch initually but the force on the metal was too mcuh and it was warping the steel, so I made a starter puch that had a gentle angle. I can post some pics of this if people want to see it. To punch these holes the way that I decided to do in the end I have to follow these steps:

 

- Mark out holes 30mm apart on some steel

 

- Center-punch

 

- Pilot drill small hole

 

- Drill a hole a 13mm hole

 

- Deburr hole

 

- Place my die under the hole, and place the starter punch into the hole

 

- Using a press push the starer punch in and remove

 

- Change to the finishing punch and press

 

 

 

All this about 50 times, oh yes I am patient, but I can do it pretty quick now.

 

One of the problems I had was that I couldn't drill a 13mm hole into the sheet metal, if it wouldn't make a triangular shaped hole it would rip at the steel, try and pull it out of my hand and leave a rough hole. So what I did is regrind the tip of a drill bit to have a very sedate cutting profile on the tip, you could almost call it purposefully bluntening it. After I did that it would slowly cut through and leave a perfectly round hole without ripping at the material when it went through.

 

Regardless of how I acheived it the results I was quite happy with. During my trial peices I would start with a floppy peice of sheet metal and once I had stamped all the holes it would become quite rigid, and all while I had actually removed material from the sheet... funny

 

 

 

My strut brace is now finished and bolted up, i will have pics soon.

 

 

Also for anyone who is interested I bought my Cro-Mo from a place called Airport Metals. There are very few places selling 4130 grade steel so I thought I would post the info here for anyone else who is interested.

 

Airport Metals

26 Lillee Cresent

Tullamarine Vic

 

(03) 9310 5566

http://www.airportmetals.com

 

They also sell some other exotic materials like 6013-T4 Aluminium, Titanium and even Hastelloy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

now for something different, I did this a while back but I might as well post it seeing its related to my car and someone might like the idea.

 

When I was living at my previous place I found I needed alot more light to work on my car so I was going to buy a worklight from the warehouse. Finding that they only had high wattage hallogen fittings at the time I decided to make my own. I bought a pair of batten holders and spent some time designing something. I decided that not only would I have something that could be adjusted to light up my engine bay it would also be adjustable to fit under a car or over it. So I bought one tiny normal castor wheel and two slightly larger castors with a brake on them from Supercheap auto. I made up most of it in an afteternoon and wired the rest up later. I initually only wired up two globe fittings due to a shortage of batton holders at The Warehouse store and I also used energy saving globes for a nice white light. The next day after leaving it at my place I found my other roomate at the time using it to paint part of his car, so he obviously liked it. With the four fittings now in place it is a bit bulky but it does a very good job and I use it all the time. Also as a bonus it cost me like under $30 for everything. Heres some pics:

 

 

light1.jpg

 

light2.jpg

Edited by Sam_Q
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took a pic of my brace which I installed this morning.

 

strutbrace08.jpg

 

it ended up stronger than I expected, when I try and push it with all my weight I can't feel it flex even a few mm .

 

Also the final count for the weight is: 2.4KG!!!

 

 

 

Needless to say I am pretty happy with this.

Edited by Sam_Q
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not so much tallent as persistance, stubborness, a crazy amount of patience and a perfectionist attitude (to my standards). For anyone looking at my work and thinking its really something then keep in mind that I have been working on this almost non stop for 3 years now. I am constantly fighting my time and energy levels, its a real struggle, but I try hard.

 

casey: theres a bit of water between me and you unfortunetly. So is it true theres heaps of fun cornering roads in Tassie?

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You guys want winding hilly open roads come to beaudesert and do a ummm nice cruise. :y:

 

EDIT: By the way your quality of work is mind blowing and your imagination is not to be reckoned with.

 

Would you be interested in making another strut brace to suit a ke70?

Edited by too quick
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oh thanks, unfortunetly this strut brace took make an obscene amount of time and also I had to weld it on the car to make it fit. I think that it is such a one off that it probably wouldnt even fit on many other sprinters.

 

I really wish I had time to do work for other people for both PCs, cars and electrical but I have to decline, I am drowning in work I have to do for myself and ontop of all that I occasionally get to do a little bit of work on my car. One day I don't know how but I want my own workshop, then things will change.

 

 

I am starting now though I have decided to make a small amount of 20v rear bypass plates cheapy for people to see if they will sell. I have almost finished the jig for it at work.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I haven't been able to work on my car much lately but I have done a few smaller things on the side:

 

 

 

 

 

 

- I now have made a small batch of RWD 20V bypass plates which are for sale for $50 each. Also I will be making side plates shortly.

 

 

 

 

 

- I have continued to work on my own home-made gaurd roller. I have drilled out a huge plate for the hub and the roller is bellow.

 

 

roller.jpg

 

 

 

 

- I managed to buy a pair of Corona XT-130 lower control arms from the wrecker, i will be fully repainting and reconditioning them. I have already pushed the bushes out, ground off the steering stopers, pushed the ball joints out, cleaned + sanded + painted them, fitted new ball joints and I am working on doing the bushes. Heres how one looked when i bought it:

 

 

control-arm-01.jpg

 

 

Hopefully it will look like new once I am done.

Edited by Sam_Q
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  • 3 weeks later...

right now my sprinter is no longer running. I was doing some wiring and somehow I killed my DLI module. I dropped it to the guy who built it and he currently looking into it. Other than that I still managed to do some work:

 

 

I reran the wires for my coilpacks and also cleaned up my relay/fuse panel.

 

wiring.jpg

 

 

 

and I finished my lower control arms:

 

control-arm-02.jpg

 

I did the following:

 

- Started with XT130 arms

- Chopped off the steering stoppers

- took the ball joints out

- took the bushes out

- cleaned them

- painted them

- pushed new ball-joints and bushes back in

 

I hope to install them soon, also they cost me a total of $35 each!

Edited by Sam_Q
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