Medicine_Man Posted November 26, 2006 Report Share Posted November 26, 2006 100% improvement on the old LCAs.. Looks the goods :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted November 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2006 I just hope they work the goods! the really funny thing is I thought I would just paint them to stop them rusting after the modifications. I spent a little more time than usual preparing them, then when they came out of the oven I was like: DAMMMN! oh well let it be covered in crap again when they are installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2006 (edited) well I have had my car off the road for 4 weeks, I was doing something to the wiring and the car no longer ran. I changed one busted Magna ignitor and it idled but couldnt rev. I ended up talking to the guy who made my custom DLI module and he modifed the module to get a square wave signal directly out of the ecu instead of off the crank angle sensor. So I now have 2 wires coming directly out of my ECU going to my DLI module. It runs great again but I still don't have a tacho, I will look into it more. Also a bit of a setback on my other engine I am building I found this: its a con-rod bearing and it has scored the crank. I have no idea how it happened but I guess I will have to get it ground and have oversized bearings fitted. Edited December 20, 2006 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 At least your getting back on track sort of :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 yeah your right, tacho or not, I am very happy to have a car that moves again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickZ Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Easy fix for the tacho is a Autometer Tacho adapter (part #9117) that i used with mine, cost $139 and connects to the positive supply power to the coils and reads the switching freq of the main power and creates a signal for almost all tacho's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 that isnt the problem for me, however as a backup I can use that. For me I have a 5V feed coming off the ozy sensor heater wire tap going to one side of a coil and then on the other side I have the tacho feed and also to the dli module. The dli module is designed so that it turns on and of collapsing the coil producting high voltage spikes used by the tacho. Maybe I should just get that module your talking about to fix that problem I have and for preparation for when I run a Wolf 4. thanks for the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 i jsut had a read through your work for first time, unbelievable!!! your workmanship is 2nd too none, its awesome to see someone just giving it a go, and not stopping till you have a solution, congrats man :ninja: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 thanks Dave, I am getting better but I will let it be known some things I am not happy with and I havent taken a photo because of how they looked or otherwise. I still have a long way to go but I am learning. I think the main thing is to keep an open mind all the time and keep trying to get better. But your definetly right about one part, I am very persistant, I think I am into the fourth year now of this car buildup. I am also happy to say I have have improved in an area that was a let down for the entire build of my car; my welding. I now use an electronic welding helmet set to a fast delay, this allows for me to have both hands holding the gun steady, one for the handle and the other for the nozzle. Also I did a welding course and I can now adjust the wire speed quite well and that has helped me weld quite thin materials. I have been using these new techniques for my scooter and its working out great. Stay tuned to my updates I have some interesting plans coming up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 yeah ive just started me ke70 bulid up from the ground, i don't think ill be goin to the extremes like you have, but you never know... yeah i really gota learn how to weld, ive managed to weld a plate in to fill up a decent sized rust hole..but man it was dodgy:P i was using a cheapy mig welder (one when you have to clamp the thing onto the metal so that it arcs arcross and welds...) i think thats mig. is that what you use? and i really like this helmet idea, that was another thing that drives me nuts, you flick that helmet down and you can't see nothin!! can you explain this electric helmet thing a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 sounds like an arc welder to me. Is it like this? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:SMAW.welding.navy.ncs.jpg if so thats real hard to use for thin pannels. The electronic welding helmet is a wonderful thing. It has small solar pannels to keep it charged up and the entire welding screen is an lcd pannel. With my helmet when nothing happening it is a greenish colour with a darkness level of DIN 3. Its like wearing 2 sets of sunglasses at once, not real easy to see but ok. When an arc happens or any sudden light it darkens the whole screen. My helmet is adjustable from DIN 9 to DIN 13, mig and arc welders can be used with lower settings but Tig needs higher. A cheap helmet can be bought for $70 or so but I paid $120. It has sensativety (fast/slow), reaction time (fast/slow) and the darkness. I also own the cheapy version at my work and I find the reaction time is too slow and its actually quite annoying. So if you can buy a mid range one but low range is ok too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I took my suspension out and I changed my lower control arms and also installed these lock spacers: notice the difference in length between the corona ones and the sprinter ones: 10mm apparently. Heres how it looked installed: I am going to post a guide soon on how I installed these lock spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v-tec Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Wow, i just had a quick look through this thread. I can't beleive the extent of the custom work you have made for this car. Its really amazing mate. Bloody good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted January 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2007 thanks V-tech, stay tuned I will have a surpise coming in the next few weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 this is how I installed my lock spacers as shown as part of a guide also soon in the tech section of a forum, heres the link: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum/in...mp;#entry308400 Lock spacers (as shown below) are a small spacer that goes onto the end of the steering rack shaft on either end. It allows the steering arms to move further into the steering rack to allow for more lock. I have been told it gives about 7 degree more angle with the spacers I used and it reduced my turning circle by about half a meter. It is a very cheap upgrade at $25 to $30 or easly machined if the option is there. This will push your tow right in so a wheel alignment is really needed a short time after having this done. Unless there is some damage or a different set up is used then there should be enough factory adjustment in the steering arms to allow for it. It isnt necessary normally to remove the steering arms or rods to install these. Here is how I installed mine: Looking under my sprinter this is how it is standard, It has the rubber steering boot on either end of the steering rack with a clamp on either side. - Undo the first clamp (1) with a screwdriver, can be real hard to get to. - Using some plies squeeze the second clamp (2) and slide it off - Slide the rubber boot off as much as possible This is what you end up with after the boot is slid down, the end clamp (1) can be left in that position, the boot needs to be slid off the end of the shaft (to the right for the drivers side), to do this it may be needed to remove the steering rod clamp (5) to fully slide the boot out of the way. Alternatively a second person could hold the boot to one side while the rack is being worked on. With the boot moved to one side the rack end ball joins are revealed. To undo the rack end two spanners are needed. I found however the locking tab (2) was getting in the way of my spanner so I bashed it out of the way. - If locking tab (2) is bend over the flat secttions of the rack end then bend it away using a screwdriver and a hammer as done so in the picture. When taking the rack end off care must be taken to not twist the steering rack in any way, putting force on this may well damage the steering rack. - Place a 24mm spanner on the steering rack flat section (1) - Place a 30mm spanner onto the rack end ball joint (3) - While holding the 24mm spanner still, turn to undo the 30mm spanner - Completely remove the ball end and throw away the locking tab (2) Some locking compond suck as Loctite is recomended for the rack end because the ball joints previously has a locking tab as a saftey but this can no longer be used. - Place the lock spacer onto the thread that is on the end of the steering shaft - Use some locking compond onto thread - Screw ball joint back onto steering rack - Tighten and re-assemble in reverse order as earlier and repeat process for other side. - Get a wheel alignment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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