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The centre line between the two mounting holes, does not pass through the centre of the open area. It will probably bolt down OK, but will leave a slight gap on one or both sides, which will leak or blow, with minimal face to face, one or both sides. I'll try it tomorrow, & see. Cheers Banjo

"and it goes like a cut cat." Toss the downdraft and get a single 40DCOE Weber on there! If not bike quads! I don't suppose you measured the bore when you had the head off, or took a picture of the pistons? Dished pistons sound like 5K too, my 4K looked like this- That was digging the rusted gunk out from around #3 & 4 cylinders, a major reason they overheat and blow gaskets. I thought that t'stat top would rotate easily. it certainly does in Photoshop! Sounds like a fun build, any idea on the cam that's in it?

I can confirm I have had this motor running and it goes like a cut cat. I haven’t had it running since I swapped out the single row chain to the double row. I think both you guys weighed in on this. I couldn’t get the locator dowel to line up and had to roll the crank back like a tooth to get it all on. The other finiky thing with this motor is its had the eg. 4k - ***** stamped on the block ground off hahah. are there any other ways of identifying the block? It goes way harder than any 4K I’ve owned, which makes me think it could be 5k. Although the rumour down the grape vine of previous owners say 4k-u block 5k head. I think I’ve found a ke70 thermo housing that should have us sorted to shoot water the other way. Thanks for your input fellas, both of you banjo & altezza always blow me away with your responses. I hope these forums pay you haha!! I’ve added photos of various angles of the motor for you guys to geek out on if you can figure if it’s 5/4k

No unfortunately. Definitely not symmetrical !

In theory, they visibly look like they are, (says He scratching his head), I'll have to go out ito the garage & try one. (too late in the day, is my excuse !) Cheers Banjo

Why don't you just turn the outlet around 180deg? Aren't they symmetrical?

Frankly, after all the K Series engines, I've seen on the net, & in real life; I can't remember ever seeing one with the top outlet spout, pointing towards the RHS. All the ones I've seen point towards the LHS; as on my 4K test bed engine below. That is definitely a 5K head. It was the only K Series head with two "knobs" in the casting under the end spark plug sockets, I'm led to believe. The crankshaft front pulley, looks as if it is 5K. The two sandwiched pulleies were common, as the 5K engines were used in Toyota forklifts & the like, & drove various pumps/compressors etc, off the additional pulley. However, the front camshaft sprocket cover, does not look 5K, as the timing chain marks are in the wrong place. Definitely get a top hose outlet, that points in the opposite direction. Will look so much better, in the engine bay. As far as I know, the bottom thermostat housings are all the same, as are the water pumps. Someone correct me, if I'm wrong. Have You had this engine running ? If the block is a 5K, then T.D.C. No 1, will be a bit out, if You line up the crank pulley timing nick, with the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket case. I covered this topic, in a post years ago, when I fitted a 5K crankshaft pully, onto a 4K engine. Cheers Banjo

Hi team, Currently in the process of rebuilding a wee kp for summertime skids & coffee cruising. Bought the kp and have come to realise it’s got a dished piston bottom end and what I believe to be a 5k head and have confirm this with the previous owner but it’s all “apparently”. The head has got the two knobs under each spark tube at both ends. Anyway, I’ve turfed the facto radiator and electric fan and have gone for the Fenix ke70 ally rad/fan shroud kit for maximum coolage when abusing it over the takaka hill. Question being, are the entire top & bottom thermostat housings compatible across the range of 2k-5k heads? My current thermostat housing outlet is shooting off towards the right hand side of the bay if you’re looking at the motor. The Fenix top tank outlet is on the left hand side. Option 1: I run a 180 degree rad hose off the current set up, through a length of stainless and into the radiator. (Not the end of the world). Option 2: we tidy things up and put one of the other thermostat housings on that shoot the other way. basically just wanting to know if they bolt to the head all the same. Really appreciate ya help in advance, Cheers fellars

Hi Liam, As the AM radio is working fine, the fault that is preventing You from receiving FM signals, is not fuse or externally related. I'm pretty sure the fault will be within the radio iteself; although a poor aerial connection, may allow AM stations that are strong, but prevent recption of FM signals. I've never taken one out of the "head units", so I'm afraid I can't help You there. It will require the removal to inspect. Cheers Banjo

Hi all, I have a 1985 AE82-CS with the original head unit. The CS model has the head unit with only radio and no cassette tape player. Recently the FM radio has stopped working whilst the AM continues to work fine. When I change the source from AM to FM it doesn't even produce static. No fuses seem to have blowen and all wires I can see without removing the unit seem to be connected. My next step would be to remove the head unit and check for any corrosion or back connections within the units internals. I was wondering before I did this if anyone had any other ideas for things to check and if not any advice on removing the head unit without damaging the plastic around it. Cheers

Thank Parrot, ill look at a 13/16 sized master, cheers. Thanks for the info Altezza. I'm running a remote cylinder style booster which will be under the dash. Ive got no more room in the engine bay.

Well, the smaller the master cylinder, the further the pedal moves to brake, and the more leverage it has on the pads, so its easier to push. The larger the m'cyl the less it moves and the harder it is to push. An AE95 has a 14/16th" or 22mm master cyl. that's pretty much an average number. What bolt holes do you have in the booster for the KE10? That's another factor to sort out.

KE10 is 11/16’s. AE86 is 13/16’s boosted and runs 4 wheel discs, and pulls up on a pin stock standard with a 4AGE.

Thanks for the reply altezza. My KE10 is for street. I'm running a 7ke turbo. Car is not on road yet, still have to get rear end sorted but will have shortened hilux diff and whatever discs I can get on them. However, front discs a from a KE55. Area of front and rear calipers?? I'm not real good with maths.lol. I was looking at buying a Wilwood master with a 7/8 bore. Will this suffice?

That depends on the caliper piston sizes. Find the area of front & rear caliper pistons, add them up, assume a cylinder of that area by 1mm and that is the volume of brake fluid you have to move. You only want the master cyl to move 5mm to do that, with a ratio of pedal between your foot and the m'cyl your foot will move four or five times as far. I expect you'll be looking at a 3/4" to 15/16th master cyl diameter. What size front discs are you looking at?? 270s?? 290s? ..or what motor are you using and is it street or competition use??

Hi All, Whats the factory master cylinder bore size on a 69 KE10? I'm converting my 10 to four wheel discs with a dual diaphragm booster. I would just like to know which bore size master cylinder would be best to buy? Cheers

Ok thanks mate

In Thailand, not that I've used, but Ebay seem pretty good with their systems for getting money back and their reputation system is important to the sellers. So long as the seller is selling quite a bit of stuff and not just a one-off I don't think they rip people.

Or is there a trusted eBay seller in thailand that people have used bfor

Does anyone know where i could get some ke20 strut tops thankyou

I presume the wheel base dimension of the waggons, were a little greater than the sedan, so the tail-shaft would be longer, I would think. Have a read through this post of mine, from years ago; where I basically found there was little difference in any of the gearbox "length" dimenions, although gearbox mounting points could vary slightly. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74057-auto-to-manual-ke-55/#comment-714992 The only dimension, that could possible affect the swap; would be the distance of the tailshaft flange on the front of the diff, to the centerline of the diff, where the axles are. There were the "banjo" type" diffs, which usually were fitted to fully imported Jaspanese models. Quite often, Aust/ AAMI assembled Corollas, had Borg Warner diffs with split cases. Actually, I've got one of both of those, in the garage; so next time I'm out there, I'll take a measurement off both. The other way, is to temporarily mount the gearbox & diff, You are thinking of fitting, & measure the distance between tailshaft flanges. There is some adjustment in the splines on the front of the tailshaft, where it slides into the gearbox rear end, but I wouldn't use them unless about 3/4s of their spline lengths, were in contact. Cheers Banjo

Hello everyone! Cheers! I have a KE30 sedan with a 4K swapped engine + KE70 gearbox. I'm currently using the stock KE30 LongShaft and Axle, is there any difference if I were to put ke70 longshaft and axle into my ke30? And can I reuse the original brake lines from my ke30 body to the ke70 axle if I were to fit it in?

Extra $ 250 gets You an AUTOMATIC ! When I bought my KE-30 (1974) 2 door from a little olde lady, it had a 2 speed auto in it, & 96K klms on the speedo. She couldn't have thrashed it; even if She wanted to. Didn't take long before I fitted a 5 speed gear box. Cheers Banjo

$1700 for a brand-new car!!! You can see what Govts printing money does to the value of the currency, that inflation they induce adds up over a few years!

"Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? " ..and if not the thrust bearing is probably worn out, or possibly the pilot bearing on the end of the gearbox input shaft. Sounds like its gearbox out time either way. Does the clutch still feel normal when its working apart from the noise? Squeals when your foot is off the pedal in neutral and goes quiet when you press it?