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Hi Everyone ! Just interested to hear if anyone has purchased & fitted one of these timing chain kits, that are available here in Australia. K Series Timing Chain Refurb Kit Complete Seems very cheap, for a kit that has so many bits included ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel ! Nice to see You back; & that your "Go Anywhere" Toyota, is still going strong. Would be interested; in what the deepest water level crossing, You have accomplished successfully ? It's come a long way, since 2023. Cheers Banjo.

Been a few years now, still going strong, not alot has changed exterior wise. Switched to a longer flat rack roof rack, mounted my recovery tracks up there as well as a 2x3m awning and 32 inch lightbar. On my latest trip into the bush I ripped the factory rear bumper off and broke the mounts so currently in the works with designing and fabricating a custom rear bar with a tyre carrier on the back. Other than that I have perfected the suspension setup. Kept the same springs but rebuilt the front struts and fitted up longer 616mm Rav4 rear shocks which opened up even more flex for the rear. Inside I have removed the rear seats and made a false floor from the boot to the front seats. Where the back seat was I have storage for recovery gear and tools underneath the floor. There is a lot of space there so wanted to use it! Other than that just been enjoying it, getting out and using it on the harder tracks! Actually did a black trail last weekend and there was only 1 obstacle I didn't try cause it was very steep.

Well that was short lived ! I don't know how A.I. works, but it was if it read my post, & then found a video to dispel my comment, about Toyota engines not making the 13 worst engines listing; then sent me the link. Now this is a long video. It is however, well made; & very informative; & I suggest seeing it, right through to the end. I came away, after watching it totally; glad that K Series engines are so simple; & do not involve the massive over complication of modern engine design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QKr9qIgIEM So just enjoy; without the rejoice. Cheers Banjo

I came across this video this morning. A similar video, is made for other locations in the world, like the UK. However, this one is specifically aimed at audiences, here in Australia, & uses Australian towns & cities names throughout. It is pretty damning, of the way the motor industry these days is run, where; design, is basically; to get the vehicle through the "warranty period". However; that is not really the reason I'm posting the link here. It is the joy, that the Toyota brand name gets; not a single mention at all. Not one of the engines mentioned; be they, of European; Asian; or AUS origin; wears a Toyota badge. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqU2I2wy2KI Enjoy & rejoice. Cheers Banjo

Have a look at this post by Altezzaclub, way back, which has a couple of pics of the type of diffs. The diffs with a removable rear cover were Borg Warner models, from my memory, & were fitted to Australian assembled model Corollas. The diff, with no access cover at the rear were on fully imported models, from Japan, I believe. Whether the tail shaft has to be longer or shorter, depends on which gearbox You are swapping into your Rolla. Somewhere I did a post years ago, where I lined up several different gearboxes on the garage floor, indication what their overall lengths were. I'll go take a look. Cheers Banjo

Hello banjo! i think i might have the jap diff currently in the ke30 as ive read that jap diffs are those without the removable rear casing/housing. So the main question here is, is it still possible to swap the ke70 5speed using the original ke30 4speed shaft? Haha I'm quite confused 🤯

If You go into Activity on the main menue, & search "tailshaft", you will be offered numerous threads on this subject. Here is a link, to one of my own replies, to someone; with the same query; back in 2018. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74224-box-shaft-diff-compatibility/#comment-715920 Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo

Good to be back here everyone! Currently restoring the KE30 and while everything is apart, was wondering if i can fit a KE70 5 speed gbox into my KE30 using the original KE30 4Speed Longshaft. previously ive been using a K40 from a KE70 with the original 4speed ke30 shaft and everything works fine, shifts nice, no leaks or whatsoever about few days ago, saw a post on FB saying that swapping in a K50 from a KE70 to a KE30 isnt possible as it will cause the longshaft to poke deeper inside the gearbox as the original KE30 4speed shaft is longer? Is it true? Or can i just use the K50 paired with the 4speed ke30 shaft? cheers everyone!

Look what else I was offered on ebay ! Cheers Banjo

Ebay is quite strange, there must be things going on in the background, subsidies, factory seconds and such. There's usually a stack of sellers at the same low price, none of them have it in stock even if they say they have, and they must all buy from the same warehouse. Then a different brand with the same setup, and after that comes the real people with different brands and different prices. The final layer are the ones who are selling the same product for an outrageous price, i cannot see how anyone would buy it. It has certainly made it easier to buy parts when you're not in Sydney or Melb.

Came across this today, on ebay. Yannal O.E.M (?) product. Ha Ha Ha. The front crankshaft oil seal costs Aussie $ 169.00, with free delivery. Oh thank you Yannalparts. However, directly below this ad on ebay, is the "complete gasket set" for a 5K engine; at around $7-$8 cheaper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . & it includes a front crankshaft oil seal ! Hope no one on here has ever used these parts. What a rip-off ! Beware ! Cheers Banjo

Yes. Auto and manual cars came with different diff ratios. That tire size probably not so much.

Cheers taz and altezzaclub. I might give the speedo a bit of a oil up and the cable. Could it also be the fact that its a 3 speed auto cluster with a 5 speed manual with 4:30 gears and 205/60r13 tires. All mixing putting it so far out? Cheers 79rolla

I don't think it's going to be a speedo (dash) issue if it's over reading speed. Maybe the difference at 60 just isn't big enough to be easily noticed between the phone and dash. To answer your question - yes taller gears would correct it. From memory manual ke55s had 3.9 diffs. Changing the speedo sender unit could also. Probably more importantly, how does it drive? Do you like the current gearing? The easiest solution might just be taller wheels/tyres.

If the boxes had a different final drive it would be a constant ratio out, like 6kph at 60 and 10kph at 100, so if its varying I reckon the speedo might be dodgy. You could pull the instrument cluster out and take the speedo apart to put some light oil on the shaft and bearing in there, they are driven by a magnet working against a tiny copper spiral coil spring. Have the cable out at the same time and hang it up somewhere so you can drip engine oil into it every time you walk past, until it comes out the bottom. Also a good idea with that clutch cable you've just fitted! Same with the diffs, they would be a constant percentage out. They will change the speedo by 5%, as will tyre size and going to 14" rims, but in theory its all constant. I've run a 3.9, a 4.1 and it came with a 4.3 like yours, originally an auto car. Jap cars were well-known for their speedo over-reads, along with their pony-power figures.

Is fitting the G head an easy job? The block is the same but the crank/rods/pistons are different I think. Low compression and weak internals. However, I've run out of ideas if you've checked everything we've talked about. The head gasket could leak into the water jackets, that's common, so you get bubbles in the rad when the motor is cold and the motor loses the top inch or two of water each day, but then hardly loses more. The bubbles are the compression being forced into the water system and when the thermostat is closed they push down to to the bottom of the rad and push the water out. So if you have a full radiator and the cap off when you start it and watch for a minute or two, a bad head gasket will overflow the water then suddenly burp some bubbles out and the water level drops an inch or two as the thermostat opens, allowing the compression to escape. You can buy test kits that look for carbon monoxide in the rad water to check this. The other side is that at night after a run the motor cools and that cyl sucks a little water in, which condenses on the spark plug, and when you start the next morning that cyl doesn't fire. Eventually the warm-up drives the water off the plug and away it goes, so the motor runs on 3 cyl at first startup, then runs OK during the day, just short of power. You could try fitting a new spark plug to #1 before starting it in the morning and see if it starts up on 4 cyls. A warp in the head often leads to oil in the water and vice versa, but that is usually cyls 2 and 3. A bent valve or a burnt valve will drop the compression, especially at cranking speeds, but a leak-down test really shows that. A compressor hose on a drilled out spark plug should hold pressure against the rings but drop pressure passed a bad valve or a broken compression ring. That is a more positive test than the compression meter while cranking. So, let it idle with a full rad and no cap until the water suddenly heats up, or buy a test kit and check the rad coolant. that would eliminate the head gasket. Then drill the center electrode out of a spark plug and clamp a compressor hose on it. Even a tyre compressor with a gauge would do, just blow it up to 100psi and turn the compressor off, and watch the gauge. Do all the cyls and note how fast the pressure drops. The motor will turn over half a turn as you pressurise it, its a surprise the first time! I think this is the most likely reason for it not running now, everything else seems fine.

It sparks amazingly when held to the block, it was the first thing to check before doing all other effort. There is no oil on the water. I bought it with not functioning fuel pump and I found the issue after I installed the fuel pump. Actually I installed another one just to be sure this is not the reason. So, head gasket might be the only option left and I will need to take the head off to check? Would this be possible with this compression? I am too tempted to get rid of this head as I have a GE one and this is the reason I was hesitating doing it. I was hoping for an easy project.

have you checked this one- '..and Cyl 1 will fire a spark plug in its lead resting on the head?' Just to make sure the plug does fire on the lead, which it probably does. So, has fuel, has spark and has compression.. The compression is the worry, a broken ring would drop that compression before stopping the plug firing. A head gasket might drop it enough to misfire but you would expect to see that in the compression test. Sort of 110psi for a dud cylinder, and your #1 is only 5psi down. No oil in water or water in oil?? They usually fail between 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 but maybe cyl 1 is leaking out somewhere... Which is what the Brave AI didn't specify.. "The Toyota 4AC engine is notably prone to head gasket failure even from minor overheating events, without necessarily reaching the red zone on the temperature gauge. " I didn't know they were prone too HG failure until I thought to check. So, check a definite visible sparking of a plug on #1 lead. No water in oil, oil in water or bubbles in the radiator on cold start... and list anything else you can think of. How did it start? Just one day never ran on that cyl, or were there oncoming signs of misfire?

All leads are new and all spark plugs are new as well as the distributor cap. Indeed, pulling the cable off the cylinder 1 doesn't change the work of the engine, while pulling any off the others would nearly stall it (two cylinders left). Swapping spark plugs or leads always keeps the first not firing. The spark plug on cylinder 1 turns wet and black. The one on #2 is rather black with a bit of brown, the others are rather brown Cold compression test reads 11.7 on #1 and 12 on the rest. Warm compression shouldn't be as far from this to the point to fully not ignite cylinder one.

Hey everyone. I am just wanting to know how much the diff gears may make a difference to the speed that the speedo is showing vs the car is actually going. The only thing that I have done is change it from a 3 speed auto to a 5 speed manual. The car still has the 4:30 gears in it. And with those gears from about 60km/h up the speedo is out. At about 100 by phone, the speedo sits between 110-115 km/h. But at 60km/h the car is doing 60km/h by phone. So I'm wondering will 4:11 gears fix this problem or make it worse? Cheers 79rolla

Tricky... So is the cylinder ID from pulling a spark plug lead off when running? Number one didn't drop the idle speed? What were the compression readings? Is the spark plug black or clean? Colours of the other 3? ..and Cyl 1 will fire a spark plug in its lead resting on the head?

Hello guys, I am trying to build love to a good condition AE86 with 4AC and keep it original for the moment. There is not logical issue however and being out of ideas I am reaching out for help. The cylinder one refuses to work, no matter what. There is spark, a good one. Distributor revised. There is fuel. Tried with different carb from working 4ac. There is good compression on all 4 (12). Valves have been adjusted 3 times and are in spec. The car is running smooth on the other 4 otherwise, starts first try. Runs rich, I assume due to the not burned fuel in cylinder 1. I am really out of ideas what to do next. Anyone had a similar problem and ideas for testing please?

Received it a few day ago and did the installation but the problem is still there. This is next

I added a bit as to how I see that dyno graph working-