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Check the points gap & timing just in case, a cold engine does give the ignition a hard time. If it is idling fine when its hot, then is a choke problem. The cable should open the throttle first, then close the flap over. You might find you only noticed the flap closing, and someone has adjusted the choke idle screw & inadvertently made it useless so it just closes the flap and doesn't raise the idle. Take a look.

these engines have a serious mean hard 100 degree turn for air/fuel mixture exiting the carb into the manifold, and it really does cause a lot of fuel condensation and therefore an almost incombustible mixture scenario when very cold. That along with a slightly weak spark due to old high tensions leads is enough to cause missfires that are complete show stoppers at cold idle. When the thing is running, and hot, take it out for a gentle spin, and note the colour of the spark plugs insulators. if they are nice and brown, then id say the idle circuit is supplying enough fuel. if they are white, there is definitely an idle circuit issue. If they are black, and sooty, u have a typical rich k engine setup haha. Also, there are plenty of places there can be vacuum leaks that are not audible or testable form outside the carb, but i usually find a vacuum leak on these motors just makes them idle faster, possibly because they only run when set up ʞ©$ɟing rich to begin with. If u find no leaks, check these places: PCV valve, just replace it now with the OEM replacement and don't ask questions, your engine will thank you for it regardless of weather or not it affects the idle The hot idle compensator valve, which lets air in during hot idle to counter for hot fuel bowl evaporation enrichment through the bowl vents into the airflow the power piston valve circuit, including the breather and cylinder walls, which can be so worn out it affects the circuits ability to pull the piston up and causes an overly rich mixture on the primary throat during off idle operation, with this situation u will have poor idle and black plugs with no way to tell, when this happens u put the carby in the bin. and finally, The rubber diaphragm in the brake booster, which almost always shits itself due to brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder into the brake booster drum and melts the rubber, this happens constantly because people dot realise the importance of flushing their brakes hydraulics properly.

You using the choke? Does it have a manual choke cable in the car? Little doovy on the dash that you pull out. If it does check its operation. My old 4kc liked a bit of choke for the first ~30secs.

Hello all, about due for an update i reckon!! We got the car back from Havnadip with the rust repaired and body ready to go! Had the boys there really help us out and to them we owe thanks! With the car being beautiful and straight, we were ready for paint! So over the weeks trailing the car's return, we slowly readied her for the first glimpse of that beautiful Helios red. Lots and lots of prepwork. Masking, sanding, etc etc.. lots of time and effort. Both of which are a bit hard to find considering I'm now in Grade 11 as a student!! (Money, too!) One way or another, with the helpof spectrum paints, the boys from Havnadip, our mates from KTM hobart and a handful of others, she now has a glimpse of what is to be! The insides of the doors, boot and bonnet are now red! Next on the plate is putting them back on, then preparing the whole body for the final spray!!! Very exciting progress! and massive props to my dad, who has done a fantastic job spraying the sprinter. Especially considering how long it has been since he last did it!