Twinky

Yeah at first I thought lapping was like doing a regrind but that sounds quite simple. Somehow I think the previous owner never looked after this motor. I thought I was a dodgey backyard mechanic...... Cheers guys!

Cool I thought it was going to be a bit more expensive than that. I'll check out the auto stores 2morrow.

I took the head off and then degreased it. The rest of the engine is reletavely clean. No I haven't laped the valves as i don't have the proper tools. In saying that the valves sit in very nicely so I hope they are fine. I'm sure that if the engine was running with all that crap on the seats then it should run fine now.

Oh and a quick question, those blocked off water holes (witch are brown sludge in the last photo on the bottom half of the head) are they ment to be blocked by the head gasket??? I am unsure as to why they are there but are blocked off by the gasket.

Hey guys, Finally got the rolla running again after finding out the points were fried but she still wasn't running right. Every time I'd quickly pull the throttle the exhaust would throw out a cloud of smoke, also a loud crack would emminate from the exhaust. Apart from that the idle and exhaust note was just not right. I checked and recheked the idle vaccume, play with the dizzy timing and nothing seemed to make it better. As this beast is going to be the daily I decided that I should give it a good cleanup and get it running right. Soo I started pulling it apart..... I made sure that I took photos all the way so that i could identify what hose went where etc etc. The very first thing I noticed was that the exhaust was only being held on by one bolt...... All the other bolts were only finger tight if even that, so that explained the bad exhaust note/cracking pop on what. After a painstakingly long period of time I finally managed to get the intake/exhaust off I'd seen another possible symptom of bad performance. Just pure plain bad gasket placement and bad use of gasket goop. It was everywhere.... Also it seemed that a slight oil leak (over a very long period of time) had made it's way into the inlet and exhaust on the head because of the poor gasket seal. So i then decided it's time to rip off the head. Now this is the very first time that I have even thought of doing something like this. I've swapped a motor and changed a clutch before but nothing like this, so if I'm doing anything wrong don't hesitate and point it out. So after following the trusty toyota k series engine manual I unscrewed the head bolts in the correct order and correct incriments. I then took out the pushrods and bagged them in order, numbering each one. And hey presto there is the head! And another dodgey thing I found...... Wtf was ment to be bolted on here????? (on the firewall side of the head) Instantly i saw carbon/sludge buildup, yuck! The top of the pistons, valves and yes even the valve seats had this shit on them! No wonder this thing was running like crap! No kidding there is like 1 - 1.5mm of crap on them!!!!! So I bought a valve spring compressor from supershit auto for $50 and away i went cleaning and sanding and polishing. After taking the first spring off and gently seducing the collets to come off the stem I found that the stem seals were almost non existant, except for the remmenants left by an obliterated one. I looked into my gasket set and found some shiny new ones! hoora! I used some degreaser first up to get rid of the loose/oily buildup and then attaked the gunk with a fine chisel, carefuly scraping away the buildup. I then sanded it off with 200 gritt sand paper (wet & dry), soaking the sandpaper in degreaser so that it was not too harsh on the metal. After cleaning the gunk off with the 200 I buffed it out with 1200 gritt. Unfortunately there is some very extremely shallow pitting on the valves, combustion chamber but luckily not the valve seats. This ment I didn't get a mirror finish poilish with the 1200 gritt but meh..... It is a shiteload cleaner. Exhaust ports slightly cleaned up (yet to attack it with some sand paper) A picture of a very dirty, dirty valve! A shiny squeaky clean valve! A shiny squeaky clean valve next to the dirty intake valve Clean valve next to a dirty intake valve(slightly cleaned face) To hold the valve in something suitable( I didnt want to clamp the valve so I didnt damage it) I used a socket and placed it into the exhaust port, held firm enough for me to clean it up. After a few solid hours I finally finished one cylinder and called it a night, and yes I did coat everything in engine oil as I put it back together. By the way all of the cylinders looked like cylinder No.3 I had just slightly attacked the others to see how bad they were. I don't think there is a better way to understand engines than pulling them apart and squishing them back together! In a few days time I will finish the cleanup and reseal the engine, fingers crossed. Any hints or tips would be mutch appreciated! Will keep you updated! Cheers!

Obviously you didn't look very far..... Here is the link http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=40490 Rolla rookie, I think you mean 0.4 - 0.5mm for points gap.

Woot problem solved! And I have some tips on setting the spark gap. On easier way to set the gap without the feeler guage is to loosen the bolt that clamps the distributor down and rotate the distributor. The points should only be loosely screwed on, as you rotate the distributor and hit a lobe (set the felt pad on the exact centre of the lobe!!!) on the cam you should be able to push the points towards the cam untill you see the spark. Play around with the distance till you get what you think is the best spark by tightening the points up and rotating the distributor back and forth getting a constant spark. After that just bolt everything back together except for the clamping bolt for the distributor, start the engine and then reset the distributor timing till you get the quickest and smoothest idle speed. Thats about it in a nutshell. I could probably do a pictorial if there is enough interest from the masses. Just reading about how to set the gap is difficult if you can't see what you actually have to do. If you have done the spark gap before then you would know exactly what i'm talking about

So basically I have to set the points gap right at the highest point of the cam. Cool this should be easy as the rotor button stops pointing exactly at the cylinder. I have replaced the points and also the felt pad ( came as a whole assembly ). Just hope I havent flooded the engine with all the turning over I have done trying to figure out why the engine would not start. Cheers

Hi, just a quick question here. I'm getting no spark from the coil, i've replaced the ignitor, leads, plugs, rotor button, cap and points. The one thing I am unsure of is how to set the points gap. I know it is ment to be arount 0.8mm but where are you getting that distance from and at what point of the rotation? So is it that I need to rotate the engine and make sure that the point only ever gets 0.8mm closed? Or is there an easier way? Cheers guys Alex

I say rebuild the 4k if you have the time. Time spent on engines is a very good learning experience, considering the two engines are very mutch alike you'll take what youv'e learnt from the 4k. Unless ofcourse you are just handing it over to a mechanic then just go with the 5k.

I'd say it is someone in his area that has taken it. It wouldn't have just been an oportunistic grab but someone who has been eyeing it off. This is the exact reason I take out an ignition cable every night. On the 4k I just take out the dizzy rotor. Good luck finding it.

There was an injection manifold (plus the rest of the required parts ie fuel rail, injectors) sold on ebay a few weeks ago. can't find anything now.

Could you somehow adapt the 3T-EU EFI to the 3TC?

Lol.............. I hate to be mean but it serves you right doing that and not knowing what it was for. That breather line vents the pressure in the head. So by blocking that up you have created a pressure bomb and most likely blew a seal somewhere. In a worst case scenario you have fudged the rear main seal. but because you have said the engine is now "missing under load" it sound like you have gone to catastrophic fudge up. This is not going to be a cheap fix unless you can do the work yourself. The biggest problem with this is that the weakest point has blown out..... but what is the weakest seal in your engine? that is the expensive question, trying to find the problem. Good luck finding the problem. I'm sure you wont do this again in a hurry.

They are about us$80 each after a quick look on ebay. Could probably get them a bit cheaper. The carbies are actually quite easy to take apart. Just take the head cap off (4 bolts) and slide the diaphragm out.

Hehe! Woot! My boss has kindly donated some quad carbies from his old Kawasaki GPZ 750. Unfortunately they are a diaphragm carbie, but for free I can't go wrong. He told me that they require a thorough cleaning cause they have been sitting around for a few years. i have taken off all of the float bowls and the diaphragms and all looks good. One of the diaphragms have a pinhole in them which can be fixed with an epoxy but will require a close eye over the years because the epoxy will be eaten away over time by the petrol fumes. They were working when they came off so I presume they will work when I put them on. Lots of things to do before I can do that though. Going to finish of the twinky soon and then i will start on the 4k. Updates as they come including a tutorial on how to strip the carbies and give them a good clean. Hopefully I don't encounter something bad :) .

Woot got the mags! It's funny because it looks like someone has already tried taking the mags off but failed because on each of the mags there was a bolt that would not undo. Even with the correct wheel brace it still wouldn't undo. So I managed to find an unbolted exhaust pipe and use it as a breaker bar attachment to the brace. Managed to undo the nut and all was good. Cheers for that ke71-rolla!

Mechanical work does not scare me nor does fabrication. Only thing I am scared of is buying these types of things from ebay..... I bought some velocity stacks from ebay recently for my 20 valve and when they turned up they were of a horendous build quality.... A blind monkey could have machined them better. I was even very cautious reading up on sellers history and all that but still..... Got butt stuffed.... So I just forked out a few dollars more and bought them from Tweakit.net and all way merry. So during the week I will visit a parts dealer and get a price for the quads. Someone from toyota should be shot..... I tried taking off the sump today and there are two bolts that are unreachable because of a god dam brace support for the gearbox, which means I can't get a socket in there, so I have to spend more time and take the fuker off. So I thought fukit I'll just have a beer and do it another day. Cheers guys1

Thats some good digging of threads guys, I get too impatient sometimes. Especially when I have these ideas racing through my head. That car is absolutely wikedsick! I think the 900cc carbies may be a little too big tho. My boss has told me that the 750 bike carbie is an excellent idea because the carbies were made bigger (more fuel flow) because of 12,000rpm hits. And that requires alot of fuel. So then he started to drone on that back in the day blah blah Honda 750 carbies were are very popular choice. So basically what I'm saying is that a 900cc carby setup would be better for a 1.5-6 ltr. Okie dokie going for a pricing as soon as I can.... just need to find a bike wrecker close by..... Cheers guys

Just had a crazy idea of fitting a quad carburetor setup from a road bike onto a 4k, something like the ones the honda 750's used. So basically an individual small capacity carby for each cylinder. Yes some custom fabrication will be required to fit them (I can do this at work :) ) and a new intake manifold. Probably also an electronic fuel pump for increased flow. But maybe not. but maybe. By looking at the intake on the original carby it looks too small to supply the engine with enough air to breathe, thus my inseration to modify. On the exhaust side of things what is the most beneficial system to use? My current setup is a 4-2-1 system but only like a 1.5" system. Funny thing tho, I havent actually looked to see wether I have a catalytic converter, I assume it does so would it be good for a 2" system from that point or an entire new system from the manifold? I don't see mutch benifit with going any larger than the port sizes on the exhaust. I'm too used to modifying newer engines that are pretty mutch bolt on mods. Carby motors are actually quite fun! The main issue I have with the stock manifold is that it looks too mutch like a log type setup, which seems pretty primative but correct me if I am wrong. Cheers guys!

Thats ok, I already have 2 jelly bean mags so that means I get a full set + spare. Woot! Going there on sunday morning to have a squiz. If anyone else is going my rolla is the beige one :). Oh and where abouts did you spot the jelly beans? was it in the toyota section?? Cheers

I just received this pm from forum member Dersterman. It looks like he is a spammer as he has a zero post count. I suggest everyone blocks him or just delete his account please. Is there any way to block his IP ? This is the PM as follows. "Personal Message Dersterman View Member Profile Add as Friend Send Message Add to PM block list Forward PM Find Member's Topics Find Member's Posts Hello, Today, 07:16 AM Group: New Member Posts: 0 Member No.: 10332 Joined: Yesterday, 09:43 PM Hello, friend. There are viruses' activities from your computer in last few days. Strongly recommend you to scan your computer. You can find a report about your computer's security and solve every problem with it here: (removed) Thank you. Forum member.

Hi guys, I have decided to re-seal the engine as it looks like it is leaking a tad from either the fuel pump, dizzy or sump. So I piked up a full gasket kit from sprints but there seems to be a few odd bits I have never seen before. So what I would like to ask is what are they for? So I have just numbered the pics, If you could please Identify the gaskets and odd bits that would be very helpfull. It could also be helpfull to other people looking to do the same thing. I have a K series engine repair manual (Genuine Toyota repair manual, includes 2k, 3k-b, 3k-c, 3k-h, 4k-c & 4k-j) but the gaskets seem very vague. Obviously I am not going to show the head, sump and rocker cover gasket because they are the easiest to identify. 1. Some sort of odd ring. looks like a long peice of metal strip that has been spiraled with rubber sandwitched inbetween. ( can't see it in this photo because of poor quality) 2. No idea 3. Exhast pipe gasket it seems 4. Water outlet gasket?? 5. 4 rubber rings... nfi.... 6. rubber grommets with a metal top, x2. nfi.. 7. Head rear plate??? 8. and finally some wierd grommets with metal surrounds.. nfi... OOooo just noticed the gasket set has written on it, Valve regrind kit.. Cheers guys

Jelly beans you say?? mmmmmmm

There is a brown ke30 and brown ke55 (square headlights) at upi Elizabeth, reasonable condition. I have already raided a crome strip from the bonnet and the grille from the ke30.