Sam_Q

I seriously doubt those things insulate the sound, I have more than that and its still too loud.

it should say on your compliance plate or something

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine looks to be that the only difference is the smaller bore

ah thanks for the correction, my memory is rusty

If I am not mistaken heres how it works: early 4age: 9.5:1 early 4agze: 8.0:1 late 4age: 10.3:1 late 4agze: 8.9:1

yeah steel wool if you want a nice fire, unless you mean those stainless steel kitchen scourers, they work awesome

I made it so it was completely undetectable even up close.

I had the same thing happen to me, notice in the mail. I cheated my way out by putting someting restrictive between two of the exhuast flanges.

Jaycar have some stuff for sale too, if you use the original Vl rubber mounted holder it should quieten it down a fair bit though

use a fine tooth blade or else it will get stuck as you try and cut it. Keep a fire extinguiser and a friend nearby if possible.

sounds like a plan, because you wont have a barbed line anymore I recommend atleast two proper efi clamps spaced a decent distance apart. You shouldnt hav emuch of a problem because there heaps of room spare. One thing though, itmight be a bit late but if you can use the complete rubber mounted assembly you will be infront in the noise depeartment, dunno if you care about that though. Also I really would prefer you using some sort of hand cutter, remember an empty line or tank or more of a hazard than a full one, and I really don't want to see you getting hurt.

well I havent touched the earlier model available in the ae82 but am doing serious work to the later version of the head. You can find all the info in my worklog: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9903

I made a 2 piece cro-mo bracket for mine, a bit obsessive I must admit. picy: I have heard of above one of the axle tubes of the diff under the floor, on the bottom of the car or cable tied next to the tank edit: oh and I made it two pieces so the fuel tank doesnt hit me in the head when I install it. Have a look where it bolts up to see it.

20 minutes of nitrous would cost more than a complete 4age package, although admitedly an entertaining thought.....

yep sorry man, but hey look on the bright side, these mods are far from cheap and chances are it would be actualy cheaper buying a damaged twinky and swaping everything

just as I suspected, hate to be the bearer of the bad news but the earlier model which you have doent have much potential at all as it has very nasty port shapes. The South africans are using the later model head which was available there for significantly longer than what we had here. This is also the head I am working on to make something mean.

it probably wouldnt matter because the crown would be so low and all A series twin cam engines are non interference from the factory anyway. Although despite what has been reported I have doubts about the 20V blacktop being non interference but thats another story.

ok thanks for the PM, very interesting but I need you to tell me something does your engine look like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm.../1f/4A-FE_2.JPG or like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...o_prizm_lsi.jpg

sure thing, its kelford cams and they apparently charge $25 for a weld and grind. I will be using 4age 16V trd valve springs to keep my modified valves in check I have heard about those guys but never managed to find any engine builds on there for some reason. Do you have any links? as for the +25kw it would depend heavily on which F head you have, theres like about 4 atleast funny enough.

damn lack of email notification. Sorry guys if these comments were posted a long time ago I only just saw someone commented on this thread. anyway.... beams: all 4a blocks have the same water galleries, there are some fundamental differences between the earlier and later blocks. With the exeption of some oddball engines the earlier blocks used by the bigport engines, 4ac and earlier 4af all used the "3 rib block". The later versions had the "7 rib block" which had the extra reinforcing, one threaded gearbox hole offset, the oil squirters and some other junk. I made a typo before I meant to say the early 4ac and earlier 4age blocks are the same. However it is a bad idea to swap the heads, apart from the massive compression ratio drop the 4ac didnt come with a full counter balanced crank and instead has something that a more common crap hole engine has. beams: Hiro is right I definately meant a 7AFE head on a 20V bottom end, here see for yourself, heres my dummy fit: and this is my inlets half finished: Theres quite a few thiungs that the FE series of heads have over the G heads, if you like I can explain them.

ok looks neat but I strongly recommend whatever the length that the four trumpets be equal or else you will be rich/lean conditions between cylenders

indeed your right here. However all my FE head theory is based on the 94 model onwards head design which I am quite fond of (with the exception of the cam drive!), unfortunetly this 4afe engine is the earlier version and had pretty poor inlet ports and therefore gains would be hard. It might be an option to fit the later model 7afe head which has the good inlet design and also a stack of lift in the cams however it has like increadibly short duraton so it might be a step backward again. As you said cams can only be custom, a weld and grind job. I will likely get my sent to QLD to get done as it will cost half of what it would here in VIC. aazad1: I have to agree with the guys the best option if your willing to put a bit of time in it is a 4age conversion. The good news is that it can be done relatively cheap and easy, well easy compared to a rwd install. What you do is buy an ae82 twinky or an ae93 damaged or just banged up at the auctions or ebay and then swap over the whole engine wiring loom, ecu, engine, intake, exhuast, etc... Everything swaps straight over and it will be reliable and will look totaly factory.

a 264/256 combination should by right have a really strong mid range power with a decent top end. Modification options are somewhat limited though with a standard ecu

a set of extractors might be the way to go, if you can get a flange it wouldnt be that hard to adapt the 20v extractors which normally sell exceptionaly cheap. Again no promises on the power gain. Another one is to fit a 4age trd metal head gasket or 7afe head gasket to raise the compression.

you just missed a ae86drivingclub meet in which there where quite a few corollas, but there will be another in due time. So where are you based?