Sam_Q

do you know your meant to put your ecu into fault mode before you check the timing?

the vw idea I think is the most superior option by a long way, but you ideally want to have supercharger turn right off when not used. Fitting a supercharger on the side of a 20v would be tight

I find the super works gold brand to be unusually good, well except for their multigrips. Me and my friend are using the socket sets, me a 1/4inch drive and he has a 3/8. I also have been using their 1/2 inch drive sockets for quite a while with my rattle gun even though I am not meant to, and also their other hand tools. It costs $24 I think for a row of 1/2 drive sockets from 10 to 19 I think.

sounds like an awesome meet, pity its in the ACT

oh a bit of side note: after managed to deceive my way out of an epa 'vehicle too noisy' pin I am thinking of making my car quieter, good for my sanity too. I still want a tottaly non restrictive exhaust but not be loud and it seems that theres no much on the market to help me. So I had an idea, first here are some princibles that I think apply: - a muffler or resonator with a straight perforated section of the pipe through the middle will not block any flow regardless of length and - the longer the pipe is with with sound deadening material around will block more noise if I am wrong on this please correct me so if the pipes inside the muffler are the longest possible lengths and only the straight sections are perforated then it will be its quietest so I am thinking of making the pipe just afetr my diff beak into 2 pipes of an equal cross section area (CSA) combined, and then internally to 4 individual 1.25 inch pipes. Heres is my drawing: I am pretty sure it wouldn't cause any extra restriction but would it stop the nasty raspy sound that my 20v makes? also I am thinking of using rock wool for the baffling

well its been a while and a hell of a lot of crap has happened, heres how it started: I was driving along minding my own buisness and I went to change gear, it didnt feel right, I pressed it again and my foot went straight to the floor with ease, I knew something was up. Just by chance the Moomba celebrations were on and I got stuck in traffic without a clutch. I ended up driving it without a clutch but I had to start and stop a few times, this made my starter motor so hot it started to smoke. I drove 40km home and looked at it the next day. I found the slave cylender had popped out, no big deal I thought. When I had a closer look i found that the clutch fork was out. I took off my T50 box and to my horror I saw this: the thrust bearing was seized and rubbed against the pressure plate till it melted, it used to be an exedy, what a loss!!! The weird thing is I didnt hear a thing and I didnt have the stereo on at the time. So first up I broke: 1: slave cylender 2: thrust bearing 3: excedy pressure plate the thread is on toymods for anyone who wants a read: http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20425 A very short time later I was driving along and again my foot went straight to the floor, getting really pissed off I kept driving but I started to hear a knocking sound. I stop look under the car and stunned I se my brand new PBR slave cylender hanging down. Looking closer I see that its legs have been broken off. When I later was able to take it out again I had a good look and found it had a casting failure. I took it back, got another, and reinstalled it. Back on the road again Failure 4: brand new slave cylender a few more days pass and once again I press on the clutch to hear a metal rubbing sound, pissed off I decide to drive home anyway. When I take the gearbox off once again I find that the brand new thrust bearing was seized WTF!!??? onto of that it has wrecked my fork and clips. I get a new bearing (a nachi one this time), another fork and some new clips and I am on the rroad again. Failure 5: brand new thrust bearing 6: thrust carrier retainer clips 7: clutch fork at this stage I am rather cranky and I have a good week without a problem, I continue to work on the car I am fixing for my partner and I manage to get a roadie, all I need to do is go back for a final check and get it signed off, I get about 10km away before the engine seizes up. Failure 8: 98 model injected charade engine with only 130K on it ....$$$$!! more weeks pass and I think I am set for a little while, oh boy was I wrong... some fool without insurance decides to not look or give way in a round-a-bout... damaged parts: - sub frame - headlight - bonnet - JDM grill - gaurd - parker - bumper an interesting note is that while I had only third party with Just car they are sorting it all out and sending the guy the bill.

why a K motor? rollaman: do legalities bother you? (serious question)

any chance of a picture of the engine bay? the pic labeled as that is just another compliance plate shot. Once I see what you have standard then I can take an educted guess as to what might help it. Also have you considered an engine conversion in the long run? would be quite easy for your car.

they are 4x100 and I would think you would have to run some mosterous flares even if it was the right PCD

well not quite, although the 20V has variable cam timing but it is only on the intake and is just a 2 position gear for 2 cam angles. VTEC on the other hand has a completely different set of lobes for different durations and lift. One thing no one has mentioned is using a 7A bottom end, if good low down power is wanted then that would be a good bet. I would be willing to bet I could make a 20V have awesome low down power, heres what I would do: - 7A bottom end - higher compression - hotwire air flow meter - 40cm long trumpets - cams with around a 220 degree duration? - extractors with 1 meter long & 1.25 inch diameter primaries and 50cm secondaries with a 1.5inch diameter - aftermarket ecu then if a huge amount of low down power was wanted then a ball bearing turbo intended for a 1.3L engine, I belive there is one model that small. Something that would make it boost up by 2500revs or something. It would want an intercooler with a small volume and a good dump pipe though, none of those crap designed shiny ones.

is it a 3sfe engine? also what scv mean?

I think your black levels needs a slight ajustment otherwise not bad: 8/10 this is a bug that was sitting on my monitor and didnt seem to mind having a camera 1cm away from it

what suberb? I like center rd wreckers in springvale nth I think it is

why do you need to know the cc of the piston to work out the compression ratio change? heres how I see it, you know this: existing compression ratio + stroke + bore and therfore you can easly work out the cc of the combustion chamber from there you just work out the reduced volume of the thinner gasket and reduce that from your chamber cc and re work out the ratio, makes sense?

yes thanks, I have to have patience because I don't get a whole lot of time to work on my things, this also has to compete with my other interests.

ae70: well I gave it a good thrashing and I felt the coils, I wouldnt say they were any hotter than what they normally are so I so give it the thumbs up, I also i fitted the cam cover off my blacktop now, looks heaps better robj: thanks things havent been so good for a while though. I have some helath issues and I seem to be going dowhill. Add to that I just had a car break down today that will take some serious repairs. My passion has been fading pretty bad lately. I do very much enjoy driving it though, for me its so much fun to do a suspension tweak and see how it feels different. Which reminds me I need to get around to raising the front of my car 5mm too.

no i don't think so, but to make sure i will give it hell, feel it and get back to you on it

well its been a while since I managed to do some work. Anyhow my coil mount broke once again and I decided that I was going to fix the problem once and for all. I not only moved the coils to the top of the engine but I modified the top cover to fit on and I also fitted the front covers which I painted black. I still need to paint my cams cover, I am not pretending to be a blacktop I just don't like silver on an engine much. I resized some OEM 20V leads for the job which I am a bit unsure about. My coils mount is very simple but I still like how it turned out.

do arp sell head studs for a 20v? if so who sells them any idea?

you guys could just do what I am doing: built a hybrid engine that has a silvertop with modded con-rods and matched to a blacktop head revhead: interesting point on the combustion chamber, been thinking about for a while now. I do understand that it would take a heap of very carefull porting on a silver to make it anywhere as good as a stock blacktop, Or am I wrong here? Can you descibe in more details the porting results you had?

another update: I finished my engine mounts, they are fully welded in and the engine is bolted up. Heres the rear mount: I also finished the frame recess. To do this I put a piece of flat steel on top of my cut out, tapped it with a mallet, tack welded it, ground it one side, tacked it again, ground the rest, welded it all and then did the finishing grinding. A little bit of stuffing around but I love the result, I think it looks great. here it is: and with the engine in place:

yeah only a fraction of the time that I spent on the exhaust alone in my car, I must be getting better at this. Show us a pic of your bike, sounds like fun, I want to get 80km/h out of this!! hehehe anyway costs; with the new engine and not including the stuff I will no longer use its tricky to work out but it goes like this: I bought the original pocket bike for $140 or something, I used the wheels, driveline and rear fork. I will be selling the rest. The fat boy pipe cost me $75 delivered I think, that also included a the fuel tank i am using now. heres the engine: engine with 19mm carby: $170 tripple stage reeds: $29 air cooler pipe: $35 2 spare gasket sets: $10 spare piston: $10 levers, some of the metal and frame I got for free Some more of the cro-mo- $10 to 20? thats all I can think of for now

I agree with AE70 the 4ac engine is built with economy in mind, but I must clarify it isnt economy in terms of fuel economy but economy in making the thing. Don't both doing anything to it. The 4AG is your best bet its superior in every way and it uses less fuel. That price is good but make sure that the 4age has the engine mounts still on it. I fitted an AE71 acellerator to my ae86 because it was in a better position, don't think that woudl help you but I thought I would say it anyway

towe is right, its probably easier and cheaper to just insall a whole 4age engine

ends of the bars shortened and chopped vertical, new U suport welded in for the front engine mount (also Cro-Mo steel), chain in place for basic alinment checks and also some of the pipe ground down on both sides to lower the engine even further. Front engine mounts in but not welded so I can get the alingment right. I later used some spacers at the front to get the heights right. Front section welded on properly (so to speak),front mounts tack welded on and one of the two rear engine mounts welded in. Thats all I have done right now and I will need to grind more of the pipe away to clear the engine and then weld a plate in to cover the hole. The other rear mount needs to be made but that should be real easy now the alinment is all good (I think!!!) it looks like I will be temporarily be using the pipe in the stock position and mount the fuel tank off the side, I do plan on modifying it the same as my last pipe but I want it to just run first and then maybe experiment with pipe mods before reshaping it into an elaborate shape to suit the frame. I also plan to make my own stainless steel fuel tank, should look and work great.