Sam_Q

they have it there but it isnt used, it doesnt have a pin coming off it in the connector, weird eh?? heres a link: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum/in...c=3700&st=0 ignore the reeds bit and look near the bottom of page 1

the only way to fir a 225mm faced flywheel out of a GZE is with a Niteparts 4A to W series belhousing. On any normal T50 belhousing there isnt room

ae71s and ke70s still have a pulse counter though, its built into the facia and is spun by the cable

hmmm I can't seem to find it in my worklog, I will get back to you on it

ke 70s and ae71s have a built in speed sensor in the dash, do no-one needs a reed setup. I have a pic in my worklog : http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...c=9903&st=0 I can dig it up if you can't find it

hey awesome (except for the colour), got more pics? :ninja:

I am not quite sure when you rust inside your block but maybe all you need is a light hone. If its more serious bore it out 0.5mm. Get some pics

sounds like an arc welder to me. Is it like this? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:SMAW.welding.navy.ncs.jpg if so thats real hard to use for thin pannels. The electronic welding helmet is a wonderful thing. It has small solar pannels to keep it charged up and the entire welding screen is an lcd pannel. With my helmet when nothing happening it is a greenish colour with a darkness level of DIN 3. Its like wearing 2 sets of sunglasses at once, not real easy to see but ok. When an arc happens or any sudden light it darkens the whole screen. My helmet is adjustable from DIN 9 to DIN 13, mig and arc welders can be used with lower settings but Tig needs higher. A cheap helmet can be bought for $70 or so but I paid $120. It has sensativety (fast/slow), reaction time (fast/slow) and the darkness. I also own the cheapy version at my work and I find the reaction time is too slow and its actually quite annoying. So if you can buy a mid range one but low range is ok too.

thanks Dave, I am getting better but I will let it be known some things I am not happy with and I havent taken a photo because of how they looked or otherwise. I still have a long way to go but I am learning. I think the main thing is to keep an open mind all the time and keep trying to get better. But your definetly right about one part, I am very persistant, I think I am into the fourth year now of this car buildup. I am also happy to say I have have improved in an area that was a let down for the entire build of my car; my welding. I now use an electronic welding helmet set to a fast delay, this allows for me to have both hands holding the gun steady, one for the handle and the other for the nozzle. Also I did a welding course and I can now adjust the wire speed quite well and that has helped me weld quite thin materials. I have been using these new techniques for my scooter and its working out great. Stay tuned to my updates I have some interesting plans coming up soon.

that isnt the problem for me, however as a backup I can use that. For me I have a 5V feed coming off the ozy sensor heater wire tap going to one side of a coil and then on the other side I have the tacho feed and also to the dli module. The dli module is designed so that it turns on and of collapsing the coil producting high voltage spikes used by the tacho. Maybe I should just get that module your talking about to fix that problem I have and for preparation for when I run a Wolf 4. thanks for the tip

yeah your right, tacho or not, I am very happy to have a car that moves again

well I have had my car off the road for 4 weeks, I was doing something to the wiring and the car no longer ran. I changed one busted Magna ignitor and it idled but couldnt rev. I ended up talking to the guy who made my custom DLI module and he modifed the module to get a square wave signal directly out of the ecu instead of off the crank angle sensor. So I now have 2 wires coming directly out of my ECU going to my DLI module. It runs great again but I still don't have a tacho, I will look into it more. Also a bit of a setback on my other engine I am building I found this: its a con-rod bearing and it has scored the crank. I have no idea how it happened but I guess I will have to get it ground and have oversized bearings fitted.

I have the details, i will look them up later for you if I can. It will cost you $600, is that ok though?

why? eagle, what engineering/electronics abilites do you have? also have a read of my cooling guide and see what you think

putting a silvertop in isnt the easiest of jobs, theres the whole cooling system issue, the custom ignition and the intake. How much work can you do yourself?

yeah all sounds good except for the clutch release bearing. I don't know but I would take an educted guess and say that you specificly need the T50 one

I just hope they work the goods! the really funny thing is I thought I would just paint them to stop them rusting after the modifications. I spent a little more time than usual preparing them, then when they came out of the oven I was like: DAMMMN! oh well let it be covered in crap again when they are installed

right now my sprinter is no longer running. I was doing some wiring and somehow I killed my DLI module. I dropped it to the guy who built it and he currently looking into it. Other than that I still managed to do some work: I reran the wires for my coilpacks and also cleaned up my relay/fuse panel. and I finished my lower control arms: I did the following: - Started with XT130 arms - Chopped off the steering stoppers - took the ball joints out - took the bushes out - cleaned them - painted them - pushed new ball-joints and bushes back in I hope to install them soon, also they cost me a total of $35 each!

I haven't been able to work on my car much lately but I have done a few smaller things on the side: - I now have made a small batch of RWD 20V bypass plates which are for sale for $50 each. Also I will be making side plates shortly. - I have continued to work on my own home-made gaurd roller. I have drilled out a huge plate for the hub and the roller is bellow. - I managed to buy a pair of Corona XT-130 lower control arms from the wrecker, i will be fully repainting and reconditioning them. I have already pushed the bushes out, ground off the steering stopers, pushed the ball joints out, cleaned + sanded + painted them, fitted new ball joints and I am working on doing the bushes. Heres how one looked when i bought it: Hopefully it will look like new once I am done.

hey beerhead I have finished making a small amount of those plates, I will send you a PM

hey looks nice, do you have any pics of without the fairing? heres an old pic of mine: and a more recent photo: I made the first dedicated off road trike here, its a blast to ride

when you make it could you post some pics on here? I own my own home-made trike.

i would say 185/60 for 14s and your 15s then maybe 195/50s

maybe a diesel front cut off a car with some custom work? that way you could get an appropriate gearbox also.

there isnt a hell of alot of price difference between converting the two cars, what can make things alot simpler though is if you just get the tank of out of sx and use that.