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drift freak

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Everything posted by drift freak

  1. Well I spent yesterday banging round in the shed and made some more progress. I re-fabbed the fuel cradle to give me some extra room for the exhaust. Then I made some lowering block from 50*50mm box tube. These are quite easy to make, I drilled a 12mm hole through both sides for the locating pin and then reamed one side out to 14mm to suit the locating pin on the spring. Then I got stuck into re-making the centre floor brace so I can put some seats in the front again. Man this is a slow task as it requires cutting and grinding until the folded brace sits nicely over the tunnel. Below is the first mock up I have attempted. I will be getting some more tube but painted instead of galvanised for the final version. I also got a couple of under carraige shots for those interested in the suspension layout. So as you can see things are moving along nicely. i am pretty happy with how it is all coming together. Once the fabrication work is finished it will be onto the body for rust repairs, then paint and interior :)
  2. Looking good jordy, gettin super keen :)
  3. Just some more photos of the brakes on. Now I need some wheel nuts to pull the studs back through and then I can fit some wheels and look at setting the ride height in the back :) Prgress is finally starting to come together, it is at the most complete stage since I bought the rolling shell nearly a year and half ago lol
  4. Well I've made some more progress in the last couple of weeks. I received my inlet manifold from Glenn (Celica RA 45) so I have now installed my blacktop quads and set up the temporary linkage system. I will have to sort something out in the future as the linkage fouls on the rocker cover and is in the way of the rocker breather hoses. Glenn has a centre pull linkage setup from underneath for sale but I will try and make my own first. Next will be sourcing some velocity stacks and air box. Although I will probably have to make a custom box as it sits so close to the firewall at the moment. I was surprised as the TPS plug from the Beams loom plugged straight into the quads TPS plug. Bonus!!! No I have also had my EF XR6 LSD diff cut down and axles sent for resplining. I have mounted it on the rea leaf springs using Kustom Bitz mounts I purchased directly from Kustom Bitz in Victoria. I am yet to weld the mounts on as I need to see if the diff rotates at all once it is on the ground with the wheels on. I also need to have the wheels back on to help locate the diff centrally (equal space between wheels and guards) Hope full some more updates soon with my axles expected back this week :)
  5. Yeah I know Jordain. Once it's all in their and the leafs are flattened I reckon there will be enough room to get it past :) I probably wouldn't have made it so wide if I did it again but too late now :)
  6. So a bit more progress in the last few days. I decided to make a start on the boot setup to include my fuel system. I have a 60L alloy fuel cell with Carter low pressure lift pump, surge tank and Bosch 044 EFI pump. Just need to get some fuel hose and fittings and get it mounted. So I started with a hole in the floor from the previous owner Then I decided I'd like to only sink it into the floor as far as the original spare wheel well. I made a frame to mount everything into I then cut the floor to suit the frame size. After cutting the floor I realised I probably should have tried to compact it a bit more because I haven't left alot of room for the exhaust to run passed it. With it trial mounted in the floor it all looks pretty good and fits snugg. Now to just sort a few bits and pieces out and wrap the underside in sheet metal to seal it all up. As you can see I have mounted it a little toward the drivers side, this is to try and distribute the weight. I will be installing the battery enclosure on the passenger side to add some more counterweight. Any opinions?????
  7. Well a little more progress the other day. I have now re-mounted the engine on the KE20 xmember. Must admit it took a little more than I expected but in the end wound up coming together really neatly. Where my engine was positioned from the old xmember (I didn't undo the gearbox xmember as this located it second time round) the 3SGE engine mounts clashed with the KE20 xmember. I had to cut the little locator pin off the mount (stops the mount spinning on the engine brace. I wasn't too worried about this as now its mounted in the xmember it can't spin anyways. I used 3mm mild steel plate to fab the engine mounts. So stoked with how its finished up as the cam cover now clears the horizontal line from either guard :) This is another pic of how well the ea chaser sits in the front guard with -4 deg camber. can't believe how good it fits :)
  8. Well a little more progress the other day. I have now re-mounted the engine on the KE20 xmember. Must admit it took a little more than I expected but in the end wound up coming together really neatly. Where my engine was positioned from the old xmember (I didn't undo the gearbox xmember as this located it second time round) the 3SGE engine mounts clashed with the KE20 xmember. I had to cut the little locator pin off the mount (stops the mount spinning on the engine brace. I wasn't too worried about this as now its mounted in the xmember it can't spin anyways. I used 3mm mild steel plate to fab the engine mounts. So stoked with how its finished up as the cam cover now clears the horizontal line from either guard :) This is another pic of how well the ea chaser sits in the front guard with -4 deg camber. can't believe how good it fits :)
  9. Jimi91 : Yeah we aren't totally sure how all this front end is going to work out until we actually drive it on the road. Its pretty much unexplored territory in the KE1* so we will wait and see I suppose.
  10. Hmmm interesting. I don't think they bind but will check today to make sure.
  11. So yeah we had some good results with the strut bender yesterday. I was a little sceptical when Jordain first arrived with it but it worked quite well. As you can see from the following photo it is quite simple. I was using the tool in this configuration because I had added too much camber and needed to reduce the angle. To add camber the hydraulic ram is pointed away from the car and a chain wrapped around the strut and the head to bend the hub inwards. I didn't get a good photo of this, sorry. The only issue I now have is how much King Pin Inclination it has added to the geometry. This is shown in the following photo. As you can see the level shows the straight line through the strut tube to the ground and how far the king pin is inclined over. What we did was measure the backspace from the where the rim bolts up to the rear edge of the rim and then when we bent the hub towards the strut we just allowed enough clearance for the coilover kit and tyre bulge. This gave us enough camber but maintained clearance for everything. Next time I do this (if I need to again??) I would only bend the stub enough to gain the correct angle and also try and maintain the original king pin angle. Definately a step in the right direction though. Question can anybody provide some feedback on the new king pin inclination??? Will it destroy the ball joint real quick like this??? Is there any way I can fix it without straightening the strut???
  12. So yeah we had some good results with the strut bender yesterday. I was a little sceptical when Jordain first arrived with it but it worked quite well. As you can see from the following photo it is quite simple. I was using the tool in this configuration because I had added too much camber and needed to reduce the angle. To add camber the hydraulic ram is pointed away from the car and a chain wrapped around the strut and the head to bend the hub inwards. I didn't get a good photo of this, sorry. The only issue I now have is how much King Pin Inclination it has added to the geometry. This is shown in the following photo. As you can see the level shows the straight line through the strut tube to the ground and how far the king pin is inclined over. What we did was measure the backspace from the where the rim bolts up to the rear edge of the rim and then when we bent the hub towards the strut we just allowed enough clearance for the coilover kit and tyre bulge. This gave us enough camber but maintained clearance for everything. Next time I do this (if I need to again??) I would only bend the stub enough to gain the correct angle and also try and maintain the original king pin angle. Definately a step in the right direction though. Question can anybody provide some feedback on the new king pin inclination??? Will it destroy the ball joint real quick like this??? Is there any way I can fix it without straightening the strut???
  13. Yay back on board mate, nothing like a bit of reading to inspire you huh??? :) I will prob try and come up at some stage soon and visit Jordain and your self one weekend maybe. Great to here things are still progressing though that's the main thing.
  14. No worries Dave. Whenever your in town just call. Wouldn't mind another opinion :)
  15. KE25 nut : If you had original springs that are large diameter and have now gone to small diameter coilovers you wont have any problems adjusting some more camber into your front end :) worst case bend your struts a little bit and adjust your camber tops back in. Heaps better for overall adjustment because your can go both ways with fine tuning. I think a gusset like in the photo,these are technotoy tuning's version, it runs from the stubaxle/spindle to strut tube.Probably a very good idea after stressiong the stub axle/tube joint in the bending process.
  16. Ke25 nut: thanks for the info. Yeah the kmac centre bearings are fully replaceable direct from kmac. One options is a urethane mounted spherical bearing which I presume is to try and eliminate impacts into the strut tower itself and extend bearing life. Jordain had some positive results yesterday with the strut bending tool he acquired from somewhere in Sydney. He is coming down to my house on Sunday so we will get some photos of the process and post them up. He is stoked with his results and now his front end is pretty well sorted :)
  17. Guys, I'm in the process of building my ke11 coupe and need to know the original track width front and back of the car. .The original wheels and original suspension are needed to be fitted. This is measured from the centre of one wheel to the centre of the other. The reason I need this is because if you change wheels and gyres etc. you need to keep the track width within 25mm overall of the original. (STUPID NSW REGULATIONS). At the moment I have front measurement at 1270mm and rear 1225mm, can anybody confirm this???
  18. Not necessarily Jordain I still have a reasonable amount I could go inwards at the strut tower. I'll show you on Sunday. Rolla Beams : not sure where you could pick one of those up from as apart from Japan. They aren't super common here in oz either so finding stuff like that can become a pain in the arse. Willis : yeah Jordain is coming round on the weekend with a strut bender so we can have a go at it. Fingers crossed it works as this is the final piece to the puzzle for both of us. We will get some pics and post them up when it's done.
  19. I have spoken with K-Mac suspension today and they have told me that their camber tops are far more adjustable than standard 'slide' style tops. They assured me that compared to other competitors camber plates I should be able to get another 2 degrees of neg camber. The only drama is they are fair bloody expensive!!!!! K-MAC Camber Top Slide Style Camber Top Question - Has anybody out there had any experience with these K-MAC camber tops and do they give that extra adjustment compared to 'slide' style???
  20. Jono.C yeah I've spoken with Jordain about this to great length but not sure hwere to get it done properly and for a reasonable price. I see your in Tasmania, would you know of anyone in NSW by any chance. Also have you done this before with any luck????
  21. ro11in#22, thanks for the link. They look interesting and could possibly be useful down the track. I can't use them now as NSW RTA regs state that all suspension components must be rubber mounted to insulate against shock loading into the chassis. After the engineering is sorted then they will probably make their way into my car :)
  22. My only issue now is getting enough camber into the front end while getting a reasonable size wheel and tyre under the guard. Going with the 5 stud pattern has thrown up its share of problems with not alot of rim sizes in the offset I require. Due to the hopper stoppers brake kit I have to have 15" rims, if I had of gone the same route as Jordain (building the same car/engine combo as me here on rollaclub) I would be able to use 14" and would have way more options in rim combo's because of the 4 stud pattern from the AE86. Back to the camber problem, with the camber tops fully adjusted inwards I'm still a 0 deg camber. If I use KE20 LCA's then the wheel track will be wider again and the stub axle will stick right out from the guard. I still have around 15mm before my top spring perch touches the inner of the strut tower. So theoretically I could gain a couple of degrees more camber if I could get the top of the strut inboard some more. My question is does anyone have any suggestions about how to gain more camber from my setup???
  23. Well time for an update. I know its long over due but things have been hectic busy at my house so progress is sporadic and slow :( The front end is coming along slowly with a few hiccups along the way. I bit the bullet and swapped to AE86 struts from the KE30 ones as I can use a shorter shock which has allowed me to lower th car to the desired height with enough travel left in the shock for proper operation. I also had to swap my crossmember for a KE20 one, this gave me two advantages: 1) I don't have to use adapter mounts for the LCA's 2) I have enough room behind the crossmember to mount the KE70 rack and pinion. Along with the change to the KE20 crossmember I have installed KE20 castor mounts and used KE30 castor rods with the thread machined down to the KE20 thread size to make it all fit. I have also purchased a PWR radiator core that fits nicely inside the original radiator opening (just have to cut he end tank plates and get it all welded up). A mate of mine has started to wire the ECU in and tidied up the engine wiring loom nicely, everything runs up and under the rocker cover then through the firewall behind the head :)
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