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drift freak

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Everything posted by drift freak

  1. Darren, I rang RaceBrakes in Sydney for some advice on the m/cyl sizes. They were really good and open with their advice. He told me you really want to go bigger on the rear as the will bias the front to start with. Last thing you want is the rears locking on the strip. He told me that if you go a little larger on the rear your bias adjustment isnt as hectic, which would give you a smoother pedal feel. Everyone I have spoken with recommends getting the sizes right so the bias bar is central once installed. Pretty much how my setup is at the moment. Good luck, if you want any specific photos just let me know.
  2. Hey Darren, Thanks for the feedback mate. I've used 75 series m/cyls because like you said they are shorter. For the front I originally used a 1" bore but found it too big and didn't provide enough pedal travel and feel. So I have settled on a 5/8" front and 7/8" rear, both unboosted. The clutch m/cyl is also 5/8". Hope this helps mate, it's a tigh squeeze but worth it in the long run as it frees up heaps of room in the engine bay :)
  3. So things have slowed down considerably with tasks around the house, christmas/new year and a new job all taking up most of my time. I have however made some progress with the rear shock absorber mounting setup and steering rack. So I have a friend who runs his owns cnc machine shop and spoke with the other day about getting some brackets made to fit the new shocks to the diff. So I drew them up on a A4 sheet and took them out to him, he drew them up on his CAD program and viola!! I also spoke to another bloke I know whos dad owns the local pedders shop and he got me in a set of KE20 rear shocks to try. I will probably be sending them back as they are a little long and are 3/4 compressed at ride height. But here they are with the machined brackets attached. This is how it looks with the shock mounted and bracket seated against the diff tube. The issue when setting the mounting bracket angle in relation to the diff tube is there needs to be a right angle from the shock absorber through the diff axle, similar to this drawing So if the shock leans toward the front of the car the mounting bracket needs to be rotated clockwise to maintain the 90deg angle. This creates a force directly up the shock absorber during suspension travel. While I was at my mates machine shop I droppped the steering rack off to him to have him shorten it by 30mm. This is to reduce the amount of steering angle I have because the tyres scrub on the inner footwell during full lock. It will still have heaps of lock for street duties. I had him re-machine the M14x1.5 thread in the end and also the notches for a spanner when installing the rack ends. All in all I'm happy with progress but as time is scarce things will be taking their time to be done now :(
  4. Check out this build http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43334-jordains-69-rolla/page__st__345__gopid__628729#entry628729 And mine http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54478-ke11-beams/page__st__255 Any questions just msg me
  5. Cheers 67Rolla-Ken :) Yeah I love the sounds of the little beast, I can't wait to be able to give a real good rev and hear it at full noise. I reckon it should sound pretty sweet!!!
  6. Wow, nice work with that front end. Is there any more updates???? Keen to see where this is at!!!
  7. So I have been mucking around with my GoPro this last week and got some more footage of the rolla in the back yard. I thought I'd have a go at making a little compilation.... Check it out!!!!
  8. Wow Troy, this beast of yours is insane. Just read your whole thread and I am very impressed with all the quality workamnship and attention to the smaller details that make for a sick weapon!! Keep up the good work and keep us posted :thumbsup:
  9. Wow this is a massive project. Can I ask why??? Why not just buy a 2dr???? Apart from that good luck and keep us posted. Luke
  10. Awesome effort doogs, as a spray painter I am impressed by your dedication to getting your ride up to this high standard. Very nice indeed. Hope you are happy with the repairs and your back cruising ASAP. Luke
  11. Good work!!! Got any vids of the new engine??? Which adaptronic are you using???
  12. LittleRedSpirit - Yeah it idles pretty well for now. I was lucky enough to get a ecu config file from a guy in Berridale who I met online (massive props T. Duncan for sharing his tune with me). It has saved me a hell of a lot of work but it still needs fine tuning on a dyno to sort out all the fiddly settings and stuff. It will do for now to move it around though. Not entirely sure about the brake system, I think I might need to put in boosters as the pedal is fairly stiff. It does stop reasonably well though so I need to borrow my mates brake testing machine and get some stopping g-force readings and pedal pressure figures, this will allow me to determine whether the booster is needed or not in relation to the RTA braking specs. Hopefully I can sort this in the next week or so......
  13. Damn I wish I had a pool. I can't complain to much though I have a river 5min away and the ocean is 15min.
  14. Wow your wagon is smick! Nice work 👍 yeah I'd be lost without my shed plus it gets me out of the fiancĂ©'s hair lol
  15. Cheers b.l.z bub, yeah years of overtime and no social life got me the shed. Definitely wouldn't have started such a massive project without it.
  16. So I finally had my brake flare tool arrive the other day and have since put the brake and clutch lines together. To be honest buying the Eastwood Brake Flare Tool was easily the best tool purchase I've ever made. I got it out of the box and within minutes was creating perfect flares for what I needed. So now the coupe drives and stops which has put a massive smile on my face and has made my xmas/new year just a little less stressful. Check it out So now its time to start stripping it back to pieces and start finishing the body and get it ready for paint. Watch this space :)
  17. I've got an EF XR6 LSD disc brake diff in mine but it might be a bit big for what you want. I needed the stud pattern so it was a simple choice. I also have a Nissan Pintara (4.11:1) disc brake rear end for sale complete end to end, will get measurements if your interested (might need cutting down, not sure). Cheers
  18. Yeah cheers for the heads up :) I will be grabbing myself a set of tube spanners ASAP. Like you said they are totaly invaluable as I've come to realise!!! I just wish this flare tool would hurry up and arrive, I have some time off over the new year and want to get this done.
  19. So how did you get them to seal properly??? Did you just tighten and loosen a few times to create a good fit??
  20. Ah such a pain in the arse!!! I should have given myself a little more clearance behind the pedals as its almost impossible to get the spanner on the firewall bulkhead nuts. A few people hav said the same thing about tightening them a few times to ensure good sealing. Very frustrating part of the build that's for sure
  21. So I have made some more progress but man its frustratingly slow. I got all the front brake lines made and installed, clutch line connected and the rear line in up until the flex line to the diff. I am currently using a SP Tools brake flaring tool and have found the flares extremely hard to make with a consistent finish that wont leak as the steel lines are extremely hard to flare. This tool would probably work fine on copper or aluminium tubing but not steel or stainless. Anyways I tried to bleed the system using the existing lines with temporary flares and it just leaked fluid striaght out of the back of the m/cylinder. After a bit of research I found this diagram on what flare suits what fittings. So I have decided to bite the bullet and buy a good flare tool from the states, cost a bit more than I would have liked but I'll have it forever so its a bit of a trade off. After all the muckin around I got the lines bent up so I now have templates to follow when I go to make the final lines. So for now I'll be removing the motor, gearbox and driveline, heater unit and the dash and will try and get the rust and the rest of the welding sorted then once I have the flare tool I'll finish the lines and get it driveable.
  22. What dimensions are the rims??? 17"*???" and what offset??? Got any photos???
  23. Yeah for sure but this car has broken me. Need to save FML!!!! Where's the lotto win when you need it!!
  24. The pressure reg is after the fuel rail, mounted on the drivers side inner guard. If I move the reservoir to the front face of the strut tower there should be enough room for the air box but if I do this I still have to work out how I will fit the air box between the no.4 trumpet and the firewall, at the moment there is only 5mm clearance.
  25. Hey Autofill, Yeah I know the reservoir is in the way but I will be making a custom housing to accommodate it. I am thinking I will either use 45mm straight or 90 curved to gain some room. I really only want to use the air box for rego inspections and if it get defected but leave them exposed during normal conditions. I have a friend who runs mesh between the TB and trumpet and fits a foam filter into the trumpet.... What are your thoughts?? Would this create too much turbulence and reduce performance. Worst case scenario I run braided line to the reservoir and move the reservoir next to the radiator on the drivers side of the radiator support (last option)
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