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drift freak

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Everything posted by drift freak

  1. Well I decided to have a crack at the hard lines for the brakes this arvo. It was a challenge to say the least but a local brake guy gave me some really handy advice. He suggested that when I'm planning the lines I use some 2mm fencing wire to mock up the route so I don't waste any 3/16" tube. Awesome advice!!! So I started by putting the flex lines onto the calipers and mounting them to the strut and mounting tab on the body. I then mocked up the drivers side line with the wire then bent the tube to match the template. I used a SP Tools pipe flaring kit to flare the ends WITH THE TUBE NUTS ON (don't forget these as you will need to cut the tube to put them on after and the hardline will be too short). I found out how to flare the hardline by typing in 'double flare brake line' into youtube. End result looked like this The installed braided line looks like this In this photo you can see the splitter under the dash for left and right brakes, the centre outlet goes to the master cylinder I'll get some photos of the passenger side but its pretty much identical to the drivers side apart from it runs over the top of the firewall recess, its just a straight run for this then angled down once its out of the cabin and under the guard. After talking with Jordain a few weeks back I took his advice and drilled a small hole in the inner guard as seen in the picture below with no.1 pointing to it, this is to remove the front brake lines from the enigine bay as they used to go through the engine bay and come through the inner guard at the no.2 hole. This solves the major problem of routing the passenger side brake line up and over the motor, past the recess in the firewall. It would look really messy and just plain crap if it ran through the engine bay. So onto the under dash hard lines tommorrow arvo, these will be quite difficult as there is multiple bends to clear everything and only limited space.
  2. Wow cheers feral4k!!! Thanks heaps, maybe next year????
  3. So a bit more progress has been made in the way of running lines to the reservior from the m/cylinders and the hard lines. I tried to keep the fluid transfer lines as close to the actual rear brake and clutch lines as possible, this is just to hide them a little and clean up the engine bay. Due to the holes in the firewall being through the reinforcement bracket i have drilled them a little bigger so I can weld the sheetmetal together to increase the strength back to original. The hose is 14mm OD so I drilled the holes @ 16.5mm ID. Heres the pedals with the adapters attached, they are facing the wrong way in this pic as when installed they actually face toward the firewall. Heres one with the pedals installed showing how close they come to the wiper motor mount This next one shows the bulkhead fittings on the inside for the rear brake and clutch lines plus where the reservior lines fit through the firewall (still waiting on the front m/cylinder rubber hose) And one from inside the engine bay Now the following 2 give you an idea of how well things are hidden when the trumpets are fitted back up
  4. Cheers lotec11 :) yeah I'm gettin keen as too. Thanks for the props
  5. Sweet!!! Do you make them to suit blacktop quads????
  6. Is this you Glenn??? I was chasing a timing belt and tensioner but got a genuine belt from Toyota for $84 so pretty happy with that. Do you have any dimensions for the air box, like how tall the air box is, how far it extends behind the last throttle body (toward the firewall)??? Also who made the curved trumpets?? They look trick :)
  7. Yeah I'm gunna need to make some sort of filter box. Probably out of fiberglass maybe alloy sheet. Definitely will need to sort something out. Are those photos of a 4a???
  8. Nisrola - not to start with as I have a friend with a similar setup with no booster and his brakes have great feel and don't need to much effort to get it to pull up. If it doesn't work all that well I will be putting a booster under each front guard (for front and rear) to fix it. Fingers crossed it works fine without it though, will be a massive pain in the arse to replumb it.
  9. Ok so I spent the morning installing the brake switch and clutch/brake reservior. Pretty happy with how it all came together although there isn't much room for filter socks or manifold now. Not sure how I'll get around this issue but I'll sort that later haha. So I pulled the pedals out of the car and bent up the horizontal part of the bracket for the brake switch and drilled the mounting hole in it for the switch. I then cut and drilled the mounting plate that attaches to the pedal assembly. From here I bolted the mounting bracket to the pedals and measured the length of the horizontal piece + a few mm's just in case. Then I put the horizontal bracket into place ensuring the switch was activated when the pedal was in the relaxed position and welded it together. With this setup the switch completes the brake circuit when the pedal is pushed to the floor. So then I moved onto the reservior mount. I am a little confined as to where I could put this as the full level in the reservior must be above the master cylinder so the fluid will flow under gravity. I also didn't want to run hoses all over the engine bay so as close to the firewall was the neatest and most logical spot. Now I've seen Jordain's setup where he is going to move his wiper motor to allow more room for his reserviors on top of the m/cylinders but this presents its own problems of making sure the fluid doesn't leak out without being noticed in behind the dash and also the issue of remounting the wiper motor and making sure everything works as it should. First I made a template of the shape of the strut tower where I roughly thought the reservior was going to sit (doesn't need to be perfect as the welding process fills any small gaps). I then made sure this level was above the m/cylinders (as mentioned before) and cleaned the area up with a sanding disc ready for welding. I had a lower control arm from another diff laying around so I cut a piece from that and cut the shape out of it. Drilled some mounting holes and welded the nuts to the back of the mount. I then double checked its position with the reservior mounted to the bracket and tacked it to the strut tower. So it looks like this when finished
  10. Sweet, easy fix :) got anymore photos??
  11. Looking good mate, hey what did you find with your clutch fork???? Was it installed properly or was there another problem??
  12. Yeah pretty much what I had in mind, it will allow me to reposition the rear muffler too. I have a few other issues I need sorting out, the motor is only firing on 1&4 so I need to hunt that issue down before I progress any further.
  13. So I spent most of the weekend working on the car with some very pleasing progress. I got the rest of the exhaust put together, I'm not entirely happy with the rear muffler arrangement but it will do for now. Also I'm thinking about remaking the section over the diff with mandrel bends, just to make it a little smoother and neater. Ground clearance was a mojor issue as i wanted around 10mm for clearance from the body of the car. The exhausts lowest point finished up smack on 100mm from the ground when its sitting at ride height. I also mounted the air temp sensor by making a bracket out of flat aluminium i had spare from the radiator end tank construction. It is quite a simple design and bolts between no.1 & no.2 intake trumpet. (will post some pics tonight) Now its onto routing the clutch and brake lines this week. Not really looking forward to it to be hones but it has to be done.
  14. OrangeLJ - I'm on the south coast of NSW. I will look them up and give them a call too. Cheers
  15. Cheers guys, I spoke with Race Brakes Sydney today and they are gunna make one up for about $60 +delivery. Due to there being all sorts of different fitting sizes (even though its the standard 3/8"-24) I need to send them the two ends I already have so they can match thread depths perfectly. Not too bad i reckon considering jegs.com asked $120 delivered. They are also DOT approved which makes engineering hassle free :) Rian have you got a contact number for these guys??? Probably worth ringina few places to get multiple opinions:)
  16. Ah I see what you mean by using part of the tube section now :) Yeah that would work but not sure if it would be any stronger in my application. I haven't used individual pieces to make the xmemeber but notched 3 sides out for each angle change. It should be fine considering its 3mm thick tube with really good weld penetration. It also cannot fatigue on the downward facing welds as this pushes the brace against the mounting bolts. The half tube is a great idea for that application where you have a boxed section to notch but I think with a seperate xmemeber it could have gone either way. I looked at the jegs.com site and yeah they have some good gear at very reasonable prices..... Oh well. I know now :) Also do you know of a good place that makes DOT approved flexible lines like the one that runs from the body to the diff (approx 10inch, -3AN) here in Australia. Jegs.com qouted about $115 delivered just not sure if I can find one cheaper in OZ??? Thanks for the info and input too :thumbsup:
  17. Hmmm jeggs.com or summitracing.com you say. Damn I've already bought everything I need. Probably a lesson for everyone else thinking of a similar system. Yes it would have made it cheaper but I needed to be able to swap bits and pieces as the first order I made I ordered a lot of stuff I didnt need. Rocket swapped it free of charge (plus freight) for other fittings I needed. This time I needed to speak with someone with some experience so a little extra was worth it. That last trip wasn't too bad it wasn't as much as I had anticipated. The fuel system on the other hand was crazy. With the thick wall tube, I had contemplated that avenue after Jordain suggested it but wanted to be able to remove the exhaust easily, this way I just unbolt from the back of the cat and undo a few rubber mounts and it will off..... Easy (or at least I think it will be). Plus it wasn't too much rooting around, it took about 2hrs to remake the xmember, not too bad I suppose. :)
  18. Well the gearbox xmember is back in finished for now. Pretty stoked with how it finished up, I used a heavy wall thickness piece of tube due to cutting and rewelding it compared to the original one. The original one was 2mm wall thickness compared to the 3mm new one. Way stronger and only a little heavier. It also allows the catalytic converter to be mounted with more clearance once I realign the exhaust to clear the xmember. Much happier though. I also made another trip to Rocket Industries to get my brake and clutch lines. So these will go in maybe this weekend. I should be able to drive it around the yard by next week. FINGERS CROSSED!!!!
  19. Mate is this still for sale??? Call me on 0405144982 if it is. Cheers
  20. Well I spent a few hours in the shed this arvo and made some good progress with the gearbox xmember. I have made the new one with a notch for the exhaust to pass under. It allows me to stay at the curent ride height with at least 100mm of clearance for the exhaust (this is the lowest part of the car) hopefully this will keep the RTA and cops happy. When making the new xmember I cut 45 degree sections out to allow for the angle changes. When doing this I had to cut 22.5degree sections out to allow the edges to meet equally to make it neat and easy to weld. This is shown in the following photo. If you only cut a 45 degree piece from one side the following photo shows you how the joins wind up. On the old xmemeber you can see on the left side the first weld doesn't line up, this is where one side will have a longer edge compared to the other and they wont meet flush. As you can see in this photo I am just trying to replicate the old one with the new notch out. I am also going to relocate the xmember to behind the gearbox mount with the mounting plate facing forward, this will help me with fitting the catalytic converter closer to the motor for better heating of the intrenal element.
  21. So I spent the last couple of afternoons sorting the boot floor and fuel tank situation out. I must admit the fuel tank repair kit worked extremely well and was super easy to work with. In total it took about 3hrs but spread over two days. Firstly was the cleaning phase, I removed the fuel pump and taped up the inlet and pump opening then proceeded to use the tank clean as per directions. Cleaned it up nicely with minimal fuss. I let the tank dry overnight and the next day in the sun before using the rust converter. The rust converter was a little more labour intensive as you have to roll the tank every 4-5 min to keep the inside surfaces coated but it also cleaned up easily with minimal fuss. I then put the nozzle of a hot air gun in the filler of the tank and partially covered the pump opening to dry the tank (says to do this in the instructions) while also rolling the tank to get the last of the water to dry up. Finally the sealer, this was a bit strange as when I poured it into the tank I rolled it around a few times then drained the excess out. The excess wound up being over 3/4 the original amount. This worried me a little as I didn't think it had fully sealed the tank but after leaving it overnight and in the sun yesterday it has worked a treat. Now to the boot floor, as per the previous post I had marked and cut the floor to size. I used the flange tool on both the floor piece and the car floor (probably could have gotten away with only one edge but oh well). I didn't get any photos here as I was too keen to get it in that I forgot. but here is a photo of it welded into place with only minor welding left. I will be leaving it as is until I get the body sandblasted as I want it to be super neat and at the moment there is to much crap affecting the integrity of the welds to continue but I'm stoked its is now. So its onto re-making the gearbox crossmember as I tried to finish the exhaust the other day and it fouls on the xmember. I need to make a notched section for the exhaust to fit under. At the moment if I took it under the xmember it would be in the 100mm of ground clearance. More photos to come....
  22. I have pressed a couple in but not all of them. I will be getting back around to it soon (i was in a bit of a rush to get it started). It will be fine for now though.
  23. I mounted my Vacuum distribution block a couple of days ago. It has the MAP sensor hose, Fuel pressure reg plumbed to it along with a line to each cylinder intake on the manifold. I have bought a fuel tank sealing kit as the fuel tank had started to get some rust on the inside due to sitting around unused for so long. Fairly straight forward kit with 3 parts. Clean, rust treat and seal. Should be done by the end of the week and back in with a cleaned out pump filter by the end of the weekend. I have also started to put the boot floor back. I got tjis from Jordain a little while ago and finally got around to marking it out and putting it in. I bought an air flange tool to lip either piece (photos to come) so it sits nice and neat. It also allows me to punch plug weld holes for extra strength. Should have this back in by the time the fuel tank is finished. So things are moving along. Just need to sort these brake and clutch fitting out as that is doing my head in............ARGH!!!!!
  24. It's out of the altezza front cut I bought. Thought it would be something different, hardest part of using it was wiring it in but my mate has that sorted. Comes with adjustable timed wipers which is a bonus :) pretty straight forward swap to just need to make a mount that attaches to the pedal box for extra support and she is done.
  25. Yeah Autofill I've been slowly making progress on the beast. The wiring is nearly done, its been a massive job but well worth the results. Things are coming along with the new boot floor going back at the moment and the dash getting sorted. I still need to wire in the brake switch, alarm and central locking, run brake and clutch lines, get front and rear swaybars made and mount the rear shocks.
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