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drift freak

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Everything posted by drift freak

  1. Yeah Willis, the tank is a 60L unit w/sender (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RACE-POLISHED-ALLOY-FUEL-CELL-TANK-SENDER-60L-/110908035614?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d2a2521e), the pressure pump is a genuine Bosch 044 in-line unit, lift pump is a Carter 72GPH low pressure pump and the surge is approx 2L in volume.
  2. Hi guys, After purchasing my entire fuel system for my car I have decided to take another route and it is now up for sale. Everythiing is brand new, never had fuel of any sort run through it. I would like to sell the lot in a package deal but if not sold within 1 month from this initial post I will split it up. I'm asking $500 for the lot plus postage, to buy all this indiviually will cost you way more plus postage. I would prefer pick-up but will post. The only reason I prefer pick-up is it will need to be sent as two items (tank and pumps + surge tank) and this will cost. I also have a custom made cradle that fits everything in if that suits someone which I want an extra $30 for
  3. Sorry guys, won't let me upload any vids as it says they are too large. Can someone help with this??
  4. Well not entirely related to my build but I headed out my mates house this afternonn to help him get his freshly built race car sorted before his first track day tomorrow (a bit of pay back for him wiring my car up LOL ). As you can see by the following pics and vids it runs a 3SGE Beams with 6 speed manual. He uses a 'T' series diff with the Altezza LSD centre. Up front is AE86 struts with Wilwood brakes and Wilwood pedal setup. He currently runs the stock ECU but is talking about upgrading to the Adaptronic 1280 and quads down the track. We are headed to Marulan motor comnplex tomorrow to see what shes got. Fingers crossed it all runs smoothly.
  5. Rolla Beams, I am using 20V Blacktop quads on a manifold I bought from Celica RA45 on Toymods forum. The velocity stacks are Sam-Q engineering, he is in Sydney. As for front struts I've gone with AE86 struts using excel inserts and weld-on coil over to suit my KE11. All the info is contained within this thread, my advice take a read through the whole thing and also this thread, both similar conversions http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43334-jordains-69-rolla/page__st__315 Good Luck :)
  6. Well I tried to have the top outlet on the motor machined down to suit the new configuration today by a fitter at work, he told me it would take hours to set it up and I should see the welders instead. So of to the welders I went and we decided to cut the pipe shorter and reweld the end on. All up about 10 minutes of his time. This is the end result, we cut about 50mm out of the middle. I have now cut the top outlet on the radiator as it sat about 20mm higher than the motor outlet and angled it down so the 90deg bend mates up perfectly. Also as you can see by the following photo I have bodged a lower radiator pipe until my mate can get me another alloy 180deg bend that I will fabricate into a joining pipe.
  7. Cheers Jordain, yeah its coming along well. The only down side is the top outlet on the motor needs to be machined back to allow the 90deg bend to fit in (will get some photos as I sort it out. Yeah there is plenty of room for the thermo fan too (even more in your considering how far back your motor sits :) Yeah the boot floor was just one of those things, live and learn. I'm not too annoyed as the floor was already hacked to pieces when I got the car so its probably for the best anyway lol. I makes the whole setup heaps neater and more compact too (now to get that angle grinder out and get started) BTW how is yours coming along??? Any more progress???
  8. Cheers 67 Rolla-Ken the encouragement is much appreciated. Yeah it's finally getting to where it should be. The boot floor is next on the agenda, I've changed plans and have gone back to the original tank. This is so I can have a spare tire without storing it on the back seat lol now I have to cut one out of the spare car I have and repair the rust in it then reinstall it in my car. Agh the time this car is consuming!!!
  9. Well I have finally got my radiator made and installed. It was a prety simple process in the end (much easier than I had imagined. I bought the core from PWR in QLD then bought the necessary material (50mm*50mm*3mm strip of ally & 20mm*50mm*3mm angle ally) to make the end tanks and mounting brackets. For the outlets a friend of mine had previously made a cusom radiator for his KE20 so I got him to source the ally bends. Once i had located the mounting brackets onto the car I then clamped the core in between them and started marking the bracket positions (it would be more suitable to leave the core in the car and tack it togeather but my mates welder isn't portable so we did it the long way. Once the radiator was fully welded I had it pressure tested at my local radiator shop to find any pinholes and had them plugged up. Once home I realised that my measurements weren't exact and now i need to modify the top outlet as it sits higheer than the outlet from the motor. To fix this i will cut the radiator outlet back toward the 180deg bend and angle it down toward the motor outlet and also machine the motors top housing back toward the motor for clearance. This way when i put the silicone 90deg bend on i will just twist it up to meet flush. For the bottom outlet i will get another 180deg bend and make a joining pipe connected by two silicone hoses. For now i'm pretty happy with it, the only thing left is to mount my thermo fan when it arrives in the mail.
  10. So I got my velocity stacks yesterday in the mail from Sam-Q (toymods or Sam-q engineering). I am totally stoked with the fitment, perfect blend on the internal joins between stack and throttle body. Also the mounting brackets come press fitted to the stack for easy install. I decided to go with 70mm long stacks as it suited the configuration as seen in the photos. If I went any longer they would have fouled on the firewall and made more work for me. So things are moving along nicely with the ECU harness and body harness nearly sorted its onto making the dash panel so I can mount my LCD display and 02 sensor display. More pics soon :)
  11. Jono C - I'm not 100% sure about colour and body work. I've tried to make everything fit without the need to flare guards etc. I wanted to keep it white with gold chasers (was this combo when I bought her) but my missus is super keen to go all out with a total colour change respray. I will be getting the car sandblasted inside and out to ensure all the rust is found and repaired along with stitch welding the entire car for some extra rigidity. I will more than likely go a nice light metallic green like the new Mazda 2's or Hyundai i20's but for now I'm not sure. That is the last thing I'm worrying about as I still have a mountain of things to get sorted before paint is a factor. Not really sure if that was an open invite for free test drives, maybe a substantial cash deposit will secure a drive LOL. In regards to 'This is looking like a seriously good piece of kit!' I have had a few older cars in my time and when I decided to build this one i told myself nothing less than brand new or perfection first time round. This will hopefully keep the long term costs down as everything will be brand new and it will just be turn key car with minimal maintenance. Hopefully some more pics in the next few days.
  12. Jordain, Shortening the rack is quite simple in the end. I only need to shorten the actual rack not the housing. It is a matter of removing the rack piece that the rack ends screw into and machining the desired amount off and re-tapping the thread. It will allow the missus or anyone else to drive it without scrubbing :)
  13. I've also made a fair dent in the wiring harness thanks to my mate Muzz :) The following is the plug arrangement between the ECU and body harness. We set the car up so that the motor can be removed by unplugging the motor harness from the ECU harness and out she comes. This will make maintenance a million times easier in the future. The red arrows show the ECU plugs, the light blue show the body harness plugs and the fluro green shows the starter solenoid wire. This photo is how the wiring is basically layed out throughout the front of the car. This is the fuse block re-mounted where the original fuse block was located.
  14. So peeps heres some more photos of the rack setup. Hopefully these photos shed some light on the install. I am probably going to shorten the rack by about 30-40mm as full lock scrubs the rear of the inner guards. This will also help with the 3 full turns lock to lock. I'm hoping it will come down to about 2.5 full turns :)
  15. Made some more progress today, pretty stoked with how things fell together. My mate Muzz came round and we got the steering rack in and tie rods pretty well sorted. I used the intermediate rod from the Altezza along with the column. I had to shorten the intermediate rod to 70mm extending from the main body. So we cut the splined end off and tapped a thread in it, then screwed it out using a bolt and series of nuts that the shaft slid up the middle of and BAM!!!! its was out. We then cut the remaining shaft down to a 100mm in length and inserted it into main part and welded. We then shortened the tie rod ends by cutting them down and tapping a thread into the tubed end. It probably need ends about 30-40mm shorter than KE70 but I can sort that out a bit later on. We managed to use the KE70 D/Side mounting bracket to ensure the pressed end doesn't come loose so pretty happy that fits. We followed Rob KE25 thread instructions (http://www.toymods.o...ell-my-car.html) So hopefully it all pans out well and suits the front geometry :) I've also decided to use Sam Q's velocity stacks in probably 70mm length. I would prefer to run 110mm stacks but they will fowl on the firewall. Also in the next few days I should have a tail shaft. After some thought and discussion with a few people I be going brand new 3inch steel tube and heavy duty uni's. :)
  16. Cheers for props too seabiscuit
  17. Seabiscuit - after alot of persuasion from Jordain I finally decided to use a ke20 xmember. It worked out heaps easier to install everything. I also spoke with a different engineer (a friend of a friend) and he has no worries passing it with the the 20 one. I think it really just depends on who you talk to as to what is safer (heaps safer to have direct bolt in lca's than have brackets made to adapt them). Using the 20 xmember instead allows a direct bolt in of the lca's but the engine mounts are a little trickier to fabricate. It also sits the motor lower and suits the sump position very well. To be honest it looks alot more standard now than it did with the ke10 xmember that's for sure :)
  18. Thanks 13BT_ke20  yeah I'm pretty sure I can modify it as I already have to reshape the front edge of theguard because the tyre scrapes. Weldon is a funny thing, it's all in the preparation, making sure it's clean and bare metal are the key. I've only tacked most stuff in as I'm gunna getthe shell fully sand blasted. Then I'll repair the rust and fully weld everything up including stitching the shell :)
  19. Oldie, I just re-read your post. Wheel well. Maybe it would be possible but it will hav to wait until everything is in and sorted, don't want to lose any suspension movement or lock.
  20. Little red spirit - maybe a workplace accident with the ride on is in order, trim my feet to appropriate size and also get enough money to finish it ASAP. LOL. I think with small shoes and some practice it will be fine.
  21. Oldie, do you mean the gear box tunnel (notchin??) the tunnel is pretty tight against the gearbox so there isn't much room to do anything unfortunately. Was thinking maybe an auto instead???????
  22. So I've made some more progress peeps. I spent most of Sunday working on the central floor brace so I could put my seats back in and start sorting out the steering column setup. I folded, cut and welded a piece of 125mm*75mm*3mm box tube into place then made up adapter tabs to install the seat braces. I have now welded the drivers side mount back in and reinstalled the drivers seat, along with the steering column. I am pretty stoked with how everything fits apart from the lack of foot space in the drivers footwell. So as you can see things are extremely tight so it will be race shoes only while driving or barefoot LOL. So now the drivers seat is in, I will taking the old girl to a local hotrod shop next Tuesday to have the steering rack professionally installed. Until then I will concetrating on the fuel tank enclosure in the back. I would like to get it covered and fuel lines setup. Oh another shot :) Thought Id put up a shot of roughly how the dash will be setup, very simple but I think it will look smick once its all in there and finished.
  23. Cheers wrathchild, it's finally starting take shape. After so many different combinations it rolls, sits nice. Now for steering and brake pedal setup.... To be continued.....
  24. Finally got the old girl rolling today. It had been way too long. Once I'd gotten over the fact that it was rolling I pushed her back in the shed (for some more photos) Then i got stuck into making the floor brace piece. Still going with that.
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