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Everything posted by thomo
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thats an earth problem, no question, now you just need to find it
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Help New To Corollas And Think I Stuffed Something Up (wiring)
thomo replied to Stuart89's topic in General Mechanical
think i had a combo unit fry once, try a test light and make sure your getting power to there first, then plug it back in and see if power comes out -
Help New To Corollas And Think I Stuffed Something Up (wiring)
thomo replied to Stuart89's topic in General Mechanical
didnt have the heart to say it ,small round of applause, sorry, boy racer look don't work for me -
Help New To Corollas And Think I Stuffed Something Up (wiring)
thomo replied to Stuart89's topic in General Mechanical
neons run at 12 volt but they pull peak power to get started hence the voltage hike, same as the one in your kitchen, it uses less power to leave on for 24 hours than it does to turn on, then you get into that whole amps thing that i'll never understand, better to ask tigger bout that stuff fuses ok still no lights.... and a sizzle under the dash, theres a relay on the rh kick panel from memory, that may have blown, unless your realy unlucky and blew every bulb! worst case senario but i have done it -
the 3k 4k goes well into the suzies, custom eng mounts, x member, and a 2 inch long tailshaft to the transfer case ( its independant to the box)have done the eng conversion, big grunt increase over standard mmm so the 4x4 ke30 has been done, no challenge now, how bout a ke70 duel cab 4x4?
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Help New To Corollas And Think I Stuffed Something Up (wiring)
thomo replied to Stuart89's topic in General Mechanical
your trying to run a neon which pulls 14 volts on start up off a system wire that runs what... 8 volts, yeap, you have a wiring problem now!! disconect the neon crap and replace the park light fuse (and any others you blew) check the fuseable links, hopefully you only burned out the wire to the bulb your tapping into so run along it till you find burned plasic coating and tape it up finally, post a question in the sterio section and someone will tell you how to wire in a relay and what to run it off -
i agree, i grabbed the 71 for the gearbox and was just tempted by the steering.
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i promise to make some kind of effort with the meetings, and i promise to wait longer in braddon for people to turn up, and i promise to get a new phone so i don't look like a rude bastard ignoring messages.... sorry geoff, that last text turned up lunchtime
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after all the ribbing ive seen for half baked ideas, thought id put myself in the firing line with this one, ke30/55 sedan with 4k and 5 speed on suzuki 4wd chassie and rolling gear???? fire at will
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ok, common sence kicked in and i didnt go ahead with this one, my car turns and if it aint broke don't fix it, BUT from looking about under there and you wanted to do it.... the ae71 x.member is wider so you would need to cut and shut the brackets onto the 55 x.member may need to trim a little off the rack ends to get the wheel alignment you would need to use the ae71 steering collom (hows that spelling!!) no idea how that would go under the dash and don't know if the 55 combo fits the 71 collom (my home made word again) or if you need to wire in the 71 unit I DIDNT TRY THIS I HAVE NO IDEA!!! but that sort of looks like how it goes
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same stud patern on 200b, gh to gk sigma, corona, celica for 14" steel rims, bluebird are a neutral offset but will fit wheel shops/repairers do make a outer rim to turn a 13" center into a 14" not sure bout a 14" center to 15" and any width or ofset you want but it cost about $130 ish a rim last time i checked you could buy mags for that
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that sounds heaps easyer, think i'll do that!! haha but its food for thought, you can buy 2 way unis to fit holden tailshaft yokes so stands to reason there would be one to fit the t50 yoke to a 30/55 shaft, if the bugger wasnt to long already
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feeling all warm and fuzzy now, :P
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bugger, that job just got a little more difficult then! thank for the feed back
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ok, ive developed a real complex now, is there a protocol with the posting of mechanical questions I'm not aware of or am i just lucky enough to be asking questions that have no answers? (kexx mech) haha :P
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i find the L20 to be a bit of a clunker, standard they leak oil past the valve seals so always smoking, just a big old boat anchor, you can get them going and cubes are always fun but for little light cars i don't think you need all that tork better to go for the revs of the smaller motors my votes the 1600, twin cam if the budget allows
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hey anyone, does the ke30/55 tailshaft yoke fit the ae71 5 speed? if not are the unis the same?
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3rd picture needs caption "when i grow up i wana be a centura" brings new meaning to misguided youth
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just finished a 200+ hp datto 1200 coupe, tore the rear rail in half first launch! haha its all fun when I'm not footing the bill! i havent sat down with all the books yet so specs are still sketchy on all the what fits what into my rolla
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why the bigger booster? it doesnt make the brakes work any better, just makes the pedal easyer to push, which in a small car or for sports driving means crap pedal feeling and easy brake lockups, not often you find any booster on a race car ae92 sedan... for a second i thought you where giving up on your car cos i had a bent chassy rail, then i figured what you where saying bout the springs
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hey tiger, I'm no expert, god knows ive asked a few questions myself on 55 brakes but i don't think id go dunnydoor brakes, the hub/disc is one unit so your stud patern is expencive to change, if you leave the 5 stud it will be hell to find a wheel small enough to fit (there are bearings av. to stick holden hubs to toyota so thats an easy) other thing, why go so big? sure if your planning to race bathurst and need to loose the heat but seems overkill otherwise if your in no rush, I'm giving up on the corona upgrade and looking at skyline/wrx 4 spots (yes they are the same) after market vented discs, and a disc rear, one day if it works it can all go in the FAQ
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early ke 30 senders mount on that 45 deg. part of the fuel tank drivers side, ke55 mount top center, they don't interchange, but i don't know bout the late 30s with the silver dash, should be the same as a 55 an easy way to narow down the problem is pull the wire of the sender and earth it to the body with the ign. on, if your guage goes to full, your senders stuffed, if it stays still your guage is stuffed if your stuck for parts the senders can be re... new copper wired what ever thats called, a good sparkie or appliance repair shop could help
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ALL motorsports are fun! and all the cars reguardless how they are built to race or what they are built to show take inspiration, dedication, and comitment, its the artform of the hands on person i'll have a go working on any car project but I'm smart enough to know id be a hazzard on a track so can you add a stuffabouter option?
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sounds like it corners like a ke30! i had one doing the same, fixed most of it with caster adjustment and a wheel alignment but one rail was 40mm shorter than the other so it was never great I'm guessing your cars a pig on left handers but fair on rights? last owner probably hit a gutter
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guess i better introduce myself to I'm steve, met most of you at the cruze/ photo shoot by the lake i have a mechanical background with time spent as a miner, welder, cabinet maker, construction worker, tow truck driver, and some others to boring to mention. these days I'm a materials handling consultant, I'm not sure what that means but my lower back thanks me every morning for not leaning over engine bays all week (it hates me on weekends but) i have a ke55 sedan, lowered, mags, 5 speed, 4k, and super charger going on now other car is a hi lux (at least its a toyota) with 302 windsor under the hood