andrew

shit thats on good. maybe the gates inside the gearbox for 4th are bent or worn for. if it is a borgwarner box, they are prone to this. if you get into total kaos with the box and it gets worse, i have a 4 speed you can have for free until you get the 5 speed fixed or get another. its there if you need it.

oh well maybe on the bbq cruise ay!

yes thats where i got it from but i don't understand why my injectors don't match any colours on the chart. so i cannot determan whether they are compatible with my ems

last night i found some injector specs on google for yoda modas engine / inj colour / cc/min / impedance 4ke / light green / 145 / 2.4 1g / green / 145 / 2.4 4age / dark grey / 182 / 2.0 3sfe / dark grey / 200 / 1.7 22re / orange / 200 / 1.7 4age / pink / 200 / 2.7 3sfe / dark blue / 200 / 13.8 22re / orange/blue / 200 / 13.8 4age / blue / 210 / 2.4 4age / biege / 213 / 13.8 22rte / yellow/orange / 250 / 1.7 4age / green / 250 / 13.8 4age / violet / 250 / 13.8 3sge brown / 250 / 13.8 22rte / pink / 295 / 1.6 3sge / green / 295 / 13.8 3sge / pink / 315 / 13.8 4agze / red/orange / 365 / 2.9 3sgte / black / 430 / 2.9 now. as you probably know there are two main impedance gruops. low resistance and high resistance. for example if your car ran 1.7 ohm injectors, you could fit injectors that run 2.9 ohms,as long as they are the same shape and size. hmmm 3sgte injectors in a 4ke.......oh yeah! anyway there are 2 different 22re injectors of the same cc/min, but the impedance is different, probably between year models 1984 and 1985. my prob is i can't tell what colour mine are, they are just plain white. and so are my spare 22re injectors. so i can't tell if my impedances match with the 4agze injectors i got off junior. does anyone know how i can overcome this problem? can injector specialists tell or test what impedance they are??? hope this info helps some of you out there

i hear my misses say it sometimes but i don't know what it means!! :) :D

probably not, but its a funny thought

xany: the head was a 5k head. sounds like your engine has similar work to mine. what have you done to yours??? jamie: yes it was cool too that i had most of the stuff lying around my shed. and the stuff that i didnt have i aquired from other motors (eg the celica pistons) and machined it all myself on the lathe at work. the work on the block i did at a mates workshop in rocklea as they have the actuall equipment to do that shit. and the idea of the 2 aisan carbs is a good one but i would use the slightly bigger 3t ones. correctly tuned it wouldnt use too much fuel. and yeah it did use a bit. but as it was in a panelvan i had extra room for fuel drums in the back eg for burnout comps/lap dashes etc. also 3ks do tend to rev better so they are good to do up. the only thing that lets them down is the capacity, but if u keep them in the lighter coupes/sedans rather than the wagons or estates they would be good. some of my 3ks youse to rev out to 9-10grand with no probs

oh yeah i still have the cam if anyones interested. nick: yes i discovered that the k's can go very very hard for a small pushrod engine

i built myself plenty of warm 3 and 4ks but my favourite was a 5k i fully worked. it was a 5k block which was acid bathed, bored, decked, fitted with a stroker crank, and celica pistons, a lumpy-ass cam, ported and polished head also decked and running approx 12-13:1 compression ratio. i hand fabricated a custom intake manifold which held 2 cortina webber carbs, and tuned length extractors into a 2 1/4 inch collectors then a 2 1/4 exhast through a lukey muffler. it went f@$ken hard. this was all installed first in my ke55 then it went into a ke70 panelvan with a cig locked diff. it was pretty sweet to drive. did i mention i am selling that head by the way?

too easy

go for it. it is a relativly easy thing to do for a bit better peformance. in the past i have also applied this technique to k motors and they respond really well to this.

ok cool. well do you want to meet there and i will bring the corona as they are currently on it. what time do you think you will be there????

deepending on what you want as i don't know what to offer you in regards to condition of the rest of it.

that could be cool. if you get some times i would be glad to attend!!! better than sitting around on my ass all day. get back to us with the times to meet at the yatala bp.

yes i made my own linkage for it. but first i had to take all the bullshit vac sec off and then drilled a hole in the primary linkage (3mm) and made a small linkage to go from there across to the secondary linkage where it connects to a bracket allready existing on the secondary valve that i modified slightly. i am very surprised how well it performs now and i havent noticed it using more fuel. i think the consumption may be a little less as i don't need to floor it as often anymore. it has so much more response and torque. :)

no that sweet. whats happening at macleans bridge??? :)

from memory my ke55 had a similar problem. i had a locker in mine and this made it so much harder to adjust. but even if you don't have a locker it can still be difficult. the problem i was having was that even tho i cleaned and re-adjusted everything, the wheel cylinders inside the drums were frozen, therefore holding the handbrake from performing its task 100%. new springs inside the drum also helped in fixing this, or even the springs have been put back on the wrong way. after that the were sensational. machining them could also be a good thing to do.

i agree. my ae71 wagon handled really well for a wagon. it sure suprised me as it had leafs. but i would also prefer coil springs

yes. it make for sweeeeeeeeeeeeet power all the time!!

i know a bit as a mate has a 4efte in a 93 starlet

the dp conversion means that in a way yes mechanical sec but both the primarys and secondarys open at nearly the exact same time. and yes even if i wanted to put a r motor like my white sedans 22re all i have to do is change the cross member.

i think the update front ke70/ ae71 are dead sexy

:) hah hah good one!

i have been thinking about that lately as it would be cheaper to register and comply and also one would assume that being a S series motor it would bolt straight up, would it not???

also very true. and check even that the tailshaft bolts havent rattled loose or the unis just mite be f*%ked. but they are easy to change. i experienced this several times with my stepmums shitbox commodore. it spit a tail uni once a month!!