Taz_Rx

Haha you're starting to get it. I stated with the polished tappet cover as everyone does.... then the timing cover... thermostat housing.... the 7ke manifold (which must have been about 100 hours all up!).... alternator, dizzy housing, oil cooler plate.... intercooler, cooler piping... my ls1 coil brackets. Then I start making new bits like the thermo fan brackets.... it just never stops! 😉 Just like paint, a really good polished finish is all in the prep. Get it as smooth as possible. The actual polish bit should only be the last 5 minutes of work. Fyi, I prefer cream polish. I actually like to apply and rub it in with my bare hands. Just keep rubbing until your hands are nice and black. Wipe off the excess then rub as fast as you can with an old towel or the like.... or a buffer if you have one. I used the do a bit of casual work years ago at a place called 'The Car Artist' who was really busy doing all kinds of body kits back in the late 00's when fat and furious was popular. Most of my days were spent wet rubbing primed panels. I seriously did end up with bleeding finger tips, and yes... rarely had finger prints.

Haha nice work. The real shine come out with some 2000 wet until your finger tips bleed 🤣

Careful!!.... it's a slippery slope when you start polishing alloy 🙄😂

Oh and fyi, I don't run my 13b bridge port on anything more than 91 because the compression and timing doesn't justify anymore! She's an old school IDA job.

I depends a lot on the car and the market it was designed for also. My ex once bought a Peugeot 405 mi16. She ran it on 95 and used to get around 500km from a tank. Switched to 98 and started getting over 800km to a tank!! Should have known better from the start being a euro, but this was just as 98 was becoming readily available. My Caldina is also very specific about only running 98, being a Japanese import.

While still in the car?

Whatever the value is doesn't really matter... other than the fact that's your max advance because no ECU can see into the future 😉

Love this project! It's kinda like Binky... but way faster... and no funk.

I had to resurrect an old tank when I removed my fuel cell for mod plating. I used a 2 step process... 1 I put a good few hand fulls of blue metal in the tank with some petrol and shuck the shit out of it. That removed any loose scale etc. Put a while bottle of CLR (Yes the old tv ad stuff) in the tank and let it sit in different positions over a few days. That left it sparkling inside! Fyi looks like you're putting you're aftermarket level sensor in exactly the same place I did.

Oh, and I just got an SR cas plug off eBay for like $20...

I like the idea of machining up your own new housing to mount the sensor. That way it doesn't really matter what dizzy you use! I wouldn't do it to the electronic one you bought. Just find some old points dizzy some one will give you for free. All you really need is the bottom end of the shaft (and still able to drive the oil pump) and the boss where the whole thing gets clamped down. Then weld, or a nice machined slip fit housing to go over the top. Fit the sensor (that's not real hard there's pics of it in my build thread, I just made up a little adapter plate) and weld the top of the SR shaft to the bottom of the k one. Raid the pantry for a lid (the spun steel on mine is a coffee jar lid 😂) and you're done!!

Yes it was the bigger Bosch housing and I'm running a Wolf 3D v4. But old and antiquated but it does the job. My triggering is set up as dual pulse. The stock SR20 disc has 4 slots in it, which get bigger as it goes through a rotation. My ECU uses the leading edge of these slots (So it doesn't vary) with an additional hole I drilled in the disc at #1. That gives the ECU it's 'home' signal. Remember when using CAS/ camshaft trigger it's only 360°.

I used SR20 internals in the k dizzy housing. Looks just like the module pictured above. Never had the slightest issue with it since fitting.

Shortly mate. Shed cleaned up, car in position for some loving!!

Well here's today's load. Destined to become our next batch of planter boxes...

Good place to start... https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

Yep.... that's all it's about 😏 Hopefully it doesn't come to that. Although another full bottom end rebuild could correct my balance! ... and give me the opportunity to throw in the other new bits. Last resort.

So long overdue update. Guess I'll be doing what will become inevitable in a lot of backyard garages in the coming months (Hey let's look at the positives) and getting some work done in this!! Where to start... So shortly after run in and the initial tuning I started having some clutch issues. Wouldn't disengage fully making it hard to get into gear (especially grinding reverse) and would also want to nudge forward at the lights etc. Spent months chasing my tail with it getting new master cylinder, throw out bearings, having the fly wheel refaced etc etc etc. Finally worked out it was loose rivets in the brand new exedy pressure plate. Essentially the clamping part of the pp want disengaging parallel to the flywheel causing an edge to drag. After a pretty drawn out warranty process with exedy they finally decided to replace the kit. I can appreciate from there side though that this was: a TE72 clutch kit, mounted to a modified k series flywheel, inside a rare as rocking horse shit bell housing, using TA22 hydraulics behind a motor making about 4 times what it really should! 😂 There's still a little frustration around the situation as I spent a lot of time and moon by trying to find and fix the problem. Also that faulty pressure plate was the one that was balanced and indexed to my rotating assembly balancing for the rebuild. Anyway... I'll install that soon with another t50 I got recently as the current one likes to jump out of 4th sometimes. Head gaskets 🙄 I'm not entirely sure what's going on at the moment. When I rebuilt the motor I used a permaseal head gasket. About 500km or so in that 'blew' and I got the last 2 genuine 5k gaskets left in the country. Stuck one of those in (with the ARP's as well) and it went again not long later. When I say BHG... the only real symptom is when you start it first thing in the morning it'll run on 3... or maybe even 2 because of wet plugs where water has entered the cylinders overnight. Not heaps but enough. This is actually a slight problem a had a few years ago before I rebuilt three engine! I'm weirdly kind of 'hoping' this is a crack in the head, not really blowing gaskets! If it's not that, then it's a possible crack in the block... and that's harder to fix. Pretty sure that may have been found when the machine shop had the block for boring as well. Anyway watch this space. Things happening soon to 'help contain fluids' 😏 Oh and the contents of that cardboard box is a whole other side project!

Oh and I think st205 stuff is slightly different. There's all 4 different BC's and various other st215 coilovers available anyway.

Haha so true. The ones I got were just cheap universal ones from Repco for $75 and they only take 5 minutes to put on. I do need to get some kind of bike rack to put on them though because of the lack of tow bar situation. Speaking of which, apparently an avensis bar fits but I need to investigate and confirm. Recent camping trip. Boot and half the back seat full. I did manage to also squeeze an 18" park bike in there with the front wheel out hahaha. Only problem with putting the kayaks (or something equally as long) on is the top wing flips up near vertical and tries to snap itself off on your load if you forget and try and open the boot 😏

So I've been driving this thing flat out lately and loving it. Great practical car and I've got some roof racks for it that are quick to clamp onto the rails. It's had kayaks, pallets, ladders and dining tables thrown on top haha. Did have to replace the exhaust manifold gasket recently as it was a victim of the old #1 blow out that is a known problem on these models. I didn't realise but the exhaust manifold and turbine housing are all cast as 1 piece! Took me ages to work out how to get it all un bolted too... damn Toyota and there over-engineering with brackets on everything. Oh and now thinking coilovers could be back on the cards (funds dependant)... it drives well, but I have now bottomed out the suspension a few times with slightly more spirited driving. So it wouldn't just be cosmetic.

It still ends up too low for turbo. 3k head on a 5k with D's will give you about 7.5:1 CR. Take 100 thou off it and you still won't get it above 8.5:1. If you're using the D's just use the 5k head. Get it surfaced and give it a freshen up.

I wrote this up years ago... https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances

What suspension is in it? Looks like you've got some lows happening. When I get some new wheels under mine I might need to correct the ride height a little. Had a quick look at kings website lady week and they didn't appear to do springs for these. Don't really know if I can justify BC's. If you're wrecking the while thing I might also be interested in the windscreen add mine has a crack in it. I'm in no great hurry so just keep me updated as things happen 👍

I can get triple j fine now so I'll happy. Between the sub 90mhz tuner and a 6 stack in dash that would skip if you drove over a grain of sand I didn't muck around on replacing it all. Wiring kit arrived today so I'm currently half way through installing the reverse camera. This is what I got... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kenwood-DDX4019BT-Kenwood-CMOS-130-Reverse-camera-KENWOOD-WARR/123701247763?epid=18034415640&hash=item1ccd2b3f13:g:600AAOSwMs5drk8K Repco stock these. $462 for the head unit plus another $81 for the camera to that was a damn good price. I also got an eBay coupon that saved me another $30. Can you maybe pm me some pics of your interior? And are you just talking seats, or plastics too?