demuire

Yes, insurance purposes.

Mel: I'm doing East Coast Targa (assuming I get all my shit together, today I went window shopping for a race suit and new boots and stuff (my race boots aren't FIA approved and aren't fireproof). If I get everything together (no stupid court case on the day, I get time off work, I manage to buy all the gear I need, I manage to get my licence in time etc...) then I'll be nav'ing in the Sherrin Hire Mini Cooper S. YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Can I do the observed test without first deciding if I'm going to get an NRL? I've done the rally lecture too (ages ago) but didn't have my CAMS licence yet so didn't get anything signed... Maybe Sheridan remembers...

Interesting Trueno... I like wheelsl :) WTF? Is that a NSW plate? I think this Trueno is in Malaysia... Convertible?

I'm thinking of doing the Khanacross... I might be getting an NRL so need to do an event that can be used for the observed test thing... I wonder if the Test & Tune will qualify?

And you didn't put it in the dwarf??? :P

Diff is back, started to reassemble it last night: Does anyone have access to a Bluebird TRX? Clever me forgot to take a photo of the drum brake setup before I took it apart, and now I can't remember how to put it back together... I know roughly how it goes together but can't remember which way the springs are meant to sit, and where the adjuster thing is supposed to go...

Putting bigger rims on your car doesn't mean you have to upgrade your brakes, so I would say that you were told a crock of shit.

Fred Puhn's "How To Make Your Car Handle" doesn't appear to say much about scrub radius (or at least I can't find it), but it does say this: It then later says this: And, later:

Yeah... I think spacer plates and running more offset wheels etc is good for increasing your track and in that sense making your car handle better, but it will make your scrub radius worse...

Hmm. Irokin: Measuring it is pretty easy. You'll need to draw 1 line, and make 1 point. First line from the pivot point of the top of your strut (where the strut top bearing is) to the pivot point at the bottom of your strut (where the ball joint is). Extend this line until it touches the ground. Now make a point where the middle of your tyre is, on the ground. If the line crosses exactly where the point is, then you have zero scrub radius. If it is "inside" the point, you have positive, and if it is "outside", then it is negative. Now, what to do with this? I don't really know :P As far as I can understand it, there are 2 main things about scrub radius: First of all, zero scrub radius is bad, because it causes "squirm". What this is, is when you turn the steering wheel, the tyre will pivot around an axis in the middle of your tyre. This will cause the part of the tyre on one side of this axis to try to twist in the opposite direction as the part of the tyre on the other side. This is bad. So from my understanding of this, having scrub radius that puts the line on either side of the tyre (whether neg or pos) is good. Secondly, scrub radius affects the "levalage" the tyre has on the stub axle. What does this mean? Well when you're driving, there are forces acting on your wheel all the time. Forces to slow the wheel down when you're braking, forces when you hit a bump etc, and in a FWD car forces when you accelerate. The larger the scrub radius, the more levalage the wheel has to turn the wheel, so the more force it will transfer back to the steering wheel, and to the rest of the car. This is why FWD cars typically have negative scrub radius, to minimise torque steer. In fact, I can't really seem to find any benefit in having positive scrub radius, apart from maybe amplifying the effect of castor? Not sure.

Something I thought was interesting... True it has to do with gokarts and not cars, but I think some of the principles would still apply to cars esp if you have a locked diff or a very tight LSD... Kart Steering, Physical Forces and Setup - Theory and Practice

Something I found that I thought explains scrub radius relatively well... Scrub radius

But if you only put them on the back then the front/rear track ratio would go all funny?

Do remember that too much offset can be a bad thing... Something about scrub radius, something I don't really understand yet, but making your wheels stick out too far past their pivot point is apparently a bad thing...

Rob: Yes, you told me about them, but for some reason it never occurred to me to see if they had a website...

I've discovered the Demon Tweaks website. Oh Wow. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk I could so easily become so majorly bankrupt...

The thing is... Celica TA22 and KE Corollal suspension is very similar in design... Craig with the green Datsun1200 also has a complete S13 front end in his Datsun...

Isn't 3rd October the same day as the GCTCC Khanacross @ Parklands and the Ironman? Otherwise, sounds good :P Do you have any more info about it?

Another pic :P And I was wrong about the rear end on that Celica. If I'm not mistaken he's using the rear axle out of a Lancer A175? Whatever that is... And he tells me that putting the S13 lower control arms, discs and struts into the Celica was a fairly simple ordeal, not much modification needed...

Too much skin? Is there such a thing? :P

And the Celica is running... 1JZ!!! Front suspension is S13 Cusco gear, rear suspension is AE86 KYB, running power steering from an S13, front brakes out of an S13, and the rear brakes out of a Lancer GSR???

Big wheels?

KE25 is running an SR20DET... Madness!

PM me, I may be interested :P Although I think it won't be as fun because I'll have to run my normal street tyres which are A LOT more grippy... My motorkhana tyres are pretty much bald :)