jay_howie

Awesome, thanks, I will try those things and get back to you! Is there a good place to purchase vaccum line from?

Hey guys, Basically I got my car started for the first time the other day, and without comparing it to another running 4k, it sounds alot louder than it should probably be. It's giving off a sound that may be an exhaust leak. Symptoms: - Acceleration is fine - Starts fine without choke, but when choke is applied the rpm climbs as normal but quickly dies, or struggles at low rpm - When brakes are applied, idle drops to 500 rpm - When in drive, idle drops to 500 rpm, park is fine (its an auto) So my main question is, could all these small issues be related to an exhuast leak? and secondly, how do I go about checked for the leak without burning myself? If it is the intake and exhuast gasket, could it be affecting both (hence the lack of airflow when I tap pressure off for the brake booster)? Thanks

The diff ratio is just to match up to the new gearbox ratios, how Toyota designed it. To understand how it would affect your car, it would lower your rpm in every gear, by a small amount. This is much more benifical if your doing highway km's. For city driving I would leave it as 4.3

Looks great mate! Good to see someone doing the body repairs properly. Someone is going to have a nice 20!

Then use mild steel, it was just a SUGGESTION, but with the correct torque there should be no arguement anyway, just remember we are trying to help someone out, not fight like schoolgirls. Back on topic, most hardware places should be able to give you what you want, eg Bunnings. There may be better places with bigger ranges, but its always had what I was after. thanks.

First of all if you want this to be legal, 14" rim is as big as you can go, as far as width, I am not sure, but definately cannot poke out of the gaurds, 15x8 is overkill for any car that isn't pushing 200kw stick with a 6" rim, and you will be happier. going full lock in a carpark with no power steering and 8" wheels is going to suck big time. As far as the crossmember goes, you can make your own, or, which is much easier, weld a manual ke55 one to an auto ke55 one. basically side to side, so they are parallel. here is a custom one, thats what it looks like basically, all you want is the auto crossmember for the chasis mounting (4 bolts) and the manual crossmember for the gearbox mount (2 bolts) so if you use your imagination, and its strong enough, it will work http://www.rollaclub...ttach_id=106413 Do you know what else is needed? ke55 manual pedal box ke55 clutch cable ke70 k50 (preffered) bellhousing to shifter ke55 manual crossmember (if welding together) ke55 manual tailshaft ke70 4k flywheel ke55/70 4k spigot bearing ke70 clutch kit with thrust bearing/release bearing use your old speedo cable For consideration, change diff ration to 4.1 instead of 4.3 Hope this helps, Jay

Who cares if stainless is weaker, its sump bolts.... stuff all torque, and they won't corrode. I am very aware of the properties of stainless and other metals properties, its my job. However for what he wants it for, it should work well, if you want to pay heaps and get titanium or some crap, you can, but its a waste.

They shouldn't strip, someone may have done them up too tight and stretched the bolt or cross-threaded it. U should be able to replace the old studs with nuts and bolts instead. High tensile and stainless wont let u down! http://www.probolt-australia.com/

Ok, its an auto though so the reverse wiring is in the car next to the shifter?

that makes sense, its where a compressor would be if there was one, just want to make sure they arn't needed before I go driving it around

And the last one, this one is melted..

2nd photo

Hey guys, picked up this ke55 not long ago, and after doing a auto gearbox change I noticed two plugs that were just hanging there, and one emissions tube that was plugged (lol with a golf tee), I am just wondering what these are, and where they should be (connected to). I havent got a battery for the car yet, so am unsure whether these affect the normal operation. Thanks, Jay Edit: sorry the photos are large, so took 3 posts to add them all in! In reference to the photo below, its the rubber tube attached to the charcoal cannister, plugged with a golf tee

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40047-limits-of-ke20-wheel-arches/page__hl__%20ke20%20%20limits%20%20of%20%20wheel Might be some helpful info here -Jay

You should be able to use just the extension housing off a ke55 k50, but this almost always requires the purchaseof a whole new gearbox anyways! But as said, the earlier gearboxes will match the furthur forward shifter position you have

Yep!

So i will be looking at getting my car registered ie over the pits. How picky are they about older cars? Anyone had a pre 80 go over lately? Basically its a new braking system, all mechanic parts under car etc etc. But the interior is pretty shabby. Do they care if things like the seats are all split? Nothing safety related is damaged eg seatbelts. Thanks!

being an aero-tech by trade makes things easy. Access to sandblasters, de-greasing baths, presses, benders, tools etc etc Another surprise came in the form of my headlights, they appear to be h4 converted already, had an extra diff center in the boot too. Not many photos of the stripping, as its pretty boring, but I will upload a lot more as the build starts! Anyone got any ideas on how to clean out a fuel tank? and also where I can get a new filler neck from? Mines rusty! Can anyone guess the gearbox behind my k50 cross-member?

Anyone need a 2-2.5" exhaust (3" tip) to suit a ke20? The boot and floor pans inside have a bit of surface rust, will also grind back and por15 these, the spare wheel well is the worst. Found a place to do all my brake lines in steel with new fittings for around $100, which is pretty good. Have also ordered new flexible lines (front and back) and hand brake cables (forward and rear), so the entire brake system is brand new now. The diff exterior was covered in 3mm of mud and oil all over, scrapped it back, but will degrease it properly soon and por15 it. Any ideas on how to get the center out, it appears to have been silicone on :( levering isn't working and I'm just damaging the casing!

Good work so far mate! $30 for brake hose and $150 for tie rod end and wheel bearing kits (do both sides). While your there though you may as well rip the 4k out for access and put $500 into replacing all the bushings, joints, brakes, suspension etc on the front end.

Almost done stripping the driveline, suspension, steering etc etc. I have a couple of photos to upload too. I have alot of shagged out parts, almost all ball joints were ʞ©$ɟed, both brakes were rooted, drums were siezed, most bushes were rotten. Snapped 2 bolts so far on areas like the exhuast and leaf springs, but so far all good. Plan is to strip and grind back/sandblast everything removed, por15 it, then replace anything mechanic and put it all back together. The underside will be stripped of stonegaurd and also por15, and the boot will get por15, as there is alot of surface rust. All new brake lines are added to the list, the originals are ʞ©$ɟed, so I will go dual circuit with future ke55 rear/ke70 front upgrades in mind for the future. So I have all the mechanical parts now minus the front brakes, brake lines, master cylinder, swaybar links, front calliper overhaul kits, steering box bearings/seals and tailshaft uni's

So I have finally got the money I was waiting on and have gone ahead and purchased; 2 more axle stands, so now have 4 por15 to coat underside components Rear Brakes -Drums -Shoes -Cylinders Suspension and drivetrain -rear and front urethane bush kits -rear Monroe shocks -ball joints, tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms -rear wheel bearings and diff bearings engine and gearbox -timing chain kit -mechanical fuel pump -flywheel bolts -second hand engine crossmember (other one had 3sgte engine mounts welded on) -second hand speedo cable A few more bits left to get, and I will be bringing the rolla home, stripping it down and rebuilding the suspension and drivetrain and getting the engine, gearbox and tailshaft in. Unfortunately I wont be left with enough to rebuild all the front strut components right now. After this its just interior bits, wiring, exhaust and a few engine components. Pics to come!

No worries mate, I am going through a full rebuild currently, so if you are not sure where to buy certain parts, I should be able to point you in the right direction (pm me).

Ah perfect, thanks Andrew! If lowering by 2 inches isn't going to legal for rwc I may have to wait till after and keep the original gear in for now. Do you think this setup in your group N car would suit street use though (mainly as a daily)? Cheers

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65415-superpro-urethane-bushes-35-off/ Talk to ranko_87 (Andrew) He has full front or rear end Urethane Bush kits and also ball joint/tie rod end and idler and pitman arm kits available. Cheers