Hurricane

hmmmm....this i like :D

umm I'm getting there lol, this week if i get time

i will next week, flat out for my interstate parts and road trip this week/end

yeh still building wagons scott, 1uz sitting in one, lookin at getting a 1jz this weekend for another, and ones is soon to be a daily with 3tc

yeh ill get onto it, ive got stuff on toymods so ill just copy and paste it over

wow ive done so many things since my last post. brake upgrades, made an R31 diff and now turbo 3t with custom injection.

does any one know the weight diference between a SR20 and RB20? and seeing as he has not told us the aim of what hes trying to get out of it and what he wants to use it for (that i can see) i don't seen why at this point it matter if the motor choise needs to be light and go around corners well! i agree with what he said, the 6 would looks cooler and sound better :P dan.

scott is his name, hes had a fuw straight 6 ke20s over the years. fire wall cutting is a must. whats ur use goin to be? eg; street car, burnouts, etc. i beleave in nsw somewere a fuw years ago there was a RB26det in a ke20, never rego'd and did runs from cops a fuw times for fun lol

i beleave that it will bolt straight on i think that all the 2tc and 3tc head have the same cc chambers so if I'm right comp will not change. I'm pretty sure it is only the 2tg head that have smaller chambers. dan.

i know of some one with a genuine te27 so ^^^^that one can't be the only one.

well i guess at the end of the day when it comes down to it cut in not legal, so its upto the owner to way up wether they will do it or not. to me the way i do it i can't see why it would cause any harm, apart from being to low, but that can be the same with proper made springs any way.

most of them looked like LHD? well if it is a real te27 you would be a fool not to get it, but even more of a fool not to let me get it :jamie:

12k and up easy for a real one I'm pretty sure. if its a mock up not sure?

i had 2'' on my worked 3tc when i first built it, went ok, but went a hell of alot better after i built my 2 1/4 zorst with one straight through muffler on it, didnt do any dyno testing but would never run under 2 1/4 again, and on my bro datto 1200 with a L18 2ltr it was the same deal but he went to 2 1/2 stainless that we made. the only thing is it alwasy getts lounder, on all my cars i run a straight through offset muffler and it always seems to work best for power. only real way to tell on your motor is to play around, but will still depend on headers, cam and motor spec's

me and my bro have only ever ran cut springs, i can't see any reason why its bad if its done right, yes cut stock springs will bottom out easyer and may fall out if cut to far for the shocker. what we always do is cut stock spring with shorter shocks, to start with, then run a stock heavyer spring cut down out of another car with the cut coil of the spring flattend out to sit in the pearch like stock ones, then run shorter shocks to keep them captive, or make spring holders/tags at the bottom spring pearch like 4wd's use. the shhhocks always are better though. also not all aftermaket lowered springs are heavyer than stock, so really you run into the same problems as cutting stock springs. ive seen it lots of times. i would just cut them if your only droping a small bit, they should even still be captive. hope this helps cheers, dan

pintara diffs are weak, only 25 spline, i would get a R31 diff and cut it down to sute, its the same deal really just r31 is wider and 28 pline axles. me and my bro do it, never had any problems, will hold up to some good power, and you can still run the pintara 4.11 - 1 diff gears if you like. i guess it really depends on the motor your goin to run?

yeah i would run 2 1/4'' or 2 1/2'' for an N/A motor ive really found the bigger ive gone the power only gets better on my worked motors but i guess for a stock 3t 2'' would be fine

i can dig up some of my cam specs but Wade Cams make some good ones, just tell them what you need it for and what your plans are.

Most of the vac hoses you will not need, not sure what ones but will not need all off them, might only need 2, 1 for dizzy advance and 1 for map sensor if you go that way? you will need coolant temp sensor, then a map sensor or air flow meter, and then its depends on the ecu that you run to what others you will need/use. cheers,dan

i used to run a 200b carby on my ke20, should be pics in my members ride thread? cheers,dan

i ran a diesel turbo off a 3lt landrover on my stock 3t, it ran 10psi most of the time and reved to 8000RPM

i had a 4k with a 2inch with a muffler and a ressy. it made more power and rev'd better running it straight outta the extractors than throght the pipe, and know it wasnt blocked, but i was running a dato 200b carby on it. wich bolt straight up. as for the corner troubles, i would say its more a fuel issue. because if it was the zorst it would do the same in a straight line. start with cheacking your fuel fillter, then the operation of the accelerator jet making shore it is spraying fuel into the carby, then set/cheack you float levels also one of my bros mates has a datto 1200, it had a 2'' zorst on it, then went to 2 1/2 and it made so much more power, even got it dyno'd but i can't remeber what it made? and its was still a 1.2litre, but it did have cam, head and carby work

why do you need 235 when useing a ke20 diff? if you need 235 for traktion then you will break the ke20 diff. mine alwas breaks with 215's runing my 3t. but with the right ofset you can run 225's in 13's i guess 225's in 15 as well?

had to finish off some worn tyres, so did a lil skid to night and took a pic after we had finish :P

well havnt been on hear for some time now, so best get every one up to speed with the rolla? finish off the turbs motor, blow a new head gasket in the first 4 hrs of driving it LOL so droped the psi back to 5 and its was all good, but then when drining in town the front oil seal in the turbs started to leak heaps, and we used 2ltrs of oil in 2 hrs!! so pulled the motor out and its now sitting in the shed ready for the next turbs setup to be finished using blow thorw webers. the motor went ok wheel spin any time ya wanted in 2nd and some times 3rd. Then i got a race cam for the N/A motor, 470 valve lift with 245 duration, wasnt to bad, but the motor wasnt setup for it at all and it got a lil shitty to drive so pulled that out and put the old cam back in and painted the extractors white. also went to darg track when i had the race cam, and i snap the right hand side axle in the first stageing burnout HAHA so never got to see what it did? Also just resentlly made a new zorst for it, 2 1/4 all mandle bent with a straight throw muffler at the rear, sounds really good, throught it might of been a little to lound but the muffler really works well. the motor can now breath now LOL had to also mod the gearbox x member to fit the pipe , as the old one ran over the top of it and it was a pain in that ass to remove. oh and it might look weak but its not, hold an hell of alot of weight. only f@$k up one bend, could of made it a lil better but it will still work ok. well thats it for now, ill post up more as i go.