Jump to content

Mechanical Sympathy

Regular Member
  • Content Count

    541
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by Mechanical Sympathy

  1. The engine was pulled down and it had spun #1 conrod big end. As a result the piston was tap-tap-tapping the head. And all the pistons were shot. A couple of weeks later, presumably after a clean and measure, I had the quote and gave the go ahead. The head will get a full recondion, custom forged pistons to suit the 'EU squish chamber head, and bottom end rebuilt and balanced with the flywheel. Standard cams, because I'd just like it to be punchy around town. Hopefully there's a lift in compression from the pistons & rebore & reface but I'll leave that to them. "Pump fuel". Should be good for 20+ years of Sunday driving! Forged pistons with a late/last model head is probably not the usual 2TG rebuild but I'm just going with it rather than try find an early head. Bit of a lead time on the pistons I understand haha
  2. Well it's out again. Time for a quick freshen up. I'll keep you posted if the scope of work expands. I've also given it it's first rub back since i painted it with 2000 grit and a quick polish, which took care of a lot of orange peel. Needs another rub in places and a decent buff.
  3. Oh I'd love me a KE17 Sprinter. Nice buying.
  4. Haha too high for mower blades #antistance
  5. Yeah that's it Dave. If it had "oil injection" it might be able to keep the compression up, but I haven't been able to keep it running on all four reliably. I am also hoping that it's basically fine, just needs a freshen. Seeing that pic on a desktop PC today highlights that I could give it another 2000grit/buff/wash in the meantime!
  6. Yeah I'm gunna pull it. Suspect compression ring on (at least) #1. Basic re-ring and re-bearing is what I'm anticipating. Gazzard Bros. the leaf spring kings will come pick it up and we'll take it on a Saturday road trip to Abbott's.
  7. I'm certainly trying to temper my excitement for the moment! I ran it for a good 15 minutes, until all the smoke cleared and I began to worry that the neighbours might not be as pleased as I was, that late on a school night. I'll reset the mixture screws this evening and "turn it around" in the street, then check the plugs and re-test. If it's good I'll pledge to honour my bets/clamp the battery/go crusiing in <month! So grateful for all of your input.
  8. Mat I think I owe you $5. 20ml of oil syringed down each plug hole with testing in the prescribed method and it blew this; So I set the timing and it fired right up and ran happily, as if the rings had come unstuck from the pistons. I hope that's it resolved. I should have posted my woes sooner. Thanks all! So, mod plate, roadie.
  9. Fair call - all and any help appreciated! No being a relative noob to engine troubleshooting, I pulled one plug at a time and didn't open the throttle. In hindsight there's probably not much to compress in a vacuum. Though at least the results were repeatable (and repeated). Back to the shed this evening then for a re-test... with some luck a bit of residual gecko egg will fall off a valve seat, or something along those lines.
  10. Whereas these were the plugs I pulled when I first got the motor (in 1234 order). They gave me some confidence that the motor had been ok.
  11. Yeah, short of fitting the special service tool / cam key the cam timing appeared spot on. Futhermore valve clearances (measured while at operating temp) were all to spec and within range. All of the shims spun freely with no signs of chatter. No water in the oil, no oil in the water. A few drops of oil before another compression test sounds like a good idea, to be sure.
  12. Bummer indeed. My $150 eBay long motor had been sitting for an undetermined number of years before I got it. While the seller offered no guarantees, he did say that it came from a pretty flash looking Celica and was only pulled to go SR20, and that he had indeed intended to use it but just never got around to it. For $150 I didn't push him on more details. I purchased the compression gauge specifically for this engine so I haven't tested it on a good runner. Certainly the results mirror the plugs, in that #1 seems to be the worst. I had to wind in 20 degrees advance to get the engine to move the car without bogging down. At first I thought it was the Webers but it was suggested to me that indicated a weak motor. On second thoughts, it probably hasn't deteriorated - moreso I've just leaned out the carbs and retarded the ignition back to normal settings. I'm using BP5EY plugs. The only other thing I hadn't tried was maybe a different range, but the (admittedly cool) compression test probably told me that was pointless? I'd love for it to come good... I think I'll just pull it.
  13. Kind gentlemen! Update time - I'd love to go for a cruise! I have issues. While I was happy when it fired in the shed, idled, revved (with some apparent tuning issues), it became obvious on its maiden voyage out of the shed under it's own power that something wasn't right. I checked the plugs and Lo and behold; Low compression on number 1. Actually low on all 4 1. 85 psi 2. 90 3. 100 4. 105 This was a luke warm test as compression seems to have deteriorated since the first fire and now it's hard to start at all. The good news is everything is set up to plug and play now, and my Weber tuning skills are probably OK afterall. I'll yank it out this weekend and have a reputable builder in mind to do a re-ring/re-bearing - nothing fancy. Oh the trials and tribulations! Thanks for your interest. It spurs me on. For so long I've put off house renos because I only wanted one project at a time, but I really can do both haha. You can see my shiny new roof above yay.
  14. After all this time and anticipation, I can't believe it's actually a goer. Once I had everything hooked up and turned it over it became obvious that the battery earth lead needed a clean up where it attached to the body. Then it cranked swiftly and fired then died. I plumbed a couple of vacuum hoses and now it starts immediately when I wave a key at it and settles down to a lopey idle. Those Webers work straight out of the box! I'll tie up a few loose ends and coolant leaks, final bleed the brakes then out for a lap - I mean rego. Rego first.
  15. I've also just done this tacho/backlight mod. SAAS make a nice little black 8000 rpm tacho that looks as near damnit oem as I'd like it to, and has a nice blue glow that matches the LED back lights. I skimped on replacing the indicators/high beam signals, as I was worried they'd be too bright at night.
  16. Pretty much lubed, plumbed and primed now. I've left wiring up the fuel pump, igniter and thermo fan until last. Mainly it was the igniter I was putting off thinking about, but now I've googled and hopefully sorted. I'll mount a Bosch BIM024 igniter on a decent heat sink and bust out the soldering iron. Then maybe I'll stick a key in it this March. An airbox/filter/s and a PCV system would be needed but can wait until after a few shed revs first!
  17. Nice looking car! Unless you're really committed to a full resto, I'd be inclined to leave it as is!
  18. I do so love a 2TG(EU) project. Maybe I'm biased. Hayden just thinking out loud - have you run a flexible line at all between your clutch master and slave? I can't quite see in your photo. If not, the engine will move when running and ultimately fatigue the hard line. I used a TA22 flexible line to the slave, and then ran a short hard line to the master via a cleat bolted to the firewall with two circlips on the flexible line so as to disallow movement.
  19. Thanks gents. P-clip sounds like a great idea. Speaking of P-clips I think I'm going to have to undo a few and drop out the rear hard line. Need to shorten and bend the end to route from the KE30 proportioning valve I had a crack at doing it in situ but there's too much engine in the way for my tool. My high school motor mechanics teacher would've done it by hand but I'd kink it for sure.
  20. And then I added some centre-cap bling to my 10 spoke Superlites to tart them up a bit;
  21. Fitting a new front gearbox seal to a K50 will be a challenge, as the gearbox has to be deconstructed to get at it i.e. it is fitted from the inside, not under a front cover like say a T50. This makes it uneconomical for all but the most hardened Corolla nut. For the price of getting a shop to fit it, you might be better off finding one that isn't leaking, or even finding a K-T bellhousing. However www.amayama.com will have them. Edit, unless you mean engine main seals. In which case Amayama, or Repco et al.
  22. Still plugging away and getting quite close now I hope. I've reconditioned the brakes, front and rear, all hoses and hydraulics. Converting to a KE30 master meant finding a KE30 proportioning valve and plumbing some hard lines (surprisingly satisfying) to suit, and to be clear of the carbs - which I had put off for aaaages. Once I have pedal pressure I'll finish installing carbs. Of course I really hate that the photo uploader rotates my photos.
×
×
  • Create New...