Mechanical Sympathy

Sure! 11191-22010 probably available by counter jockeying at Toyota but available inexpensively from here if you can wait a couple of weeks; https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=315&q=11191-22010 Fitted to these vehicles; http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=1119122010&mG=on Good luck!

Also Corona, Pintara for 14".

It might be worth checking with your local purveyor of wheels and tyres if you can purchase some longer shank nuts?

Ahh of course.. that pole could just take the tach signal if I wasn't fussed about the priming function. Free stuff always demands consideration!

I can hear that there is one operating in my Echo - buggered if I know where to find it! I assumed it was driven by the ECU. Edit: there is indeed a $5 relay that actuates the fuel pump in an Echo, part number 90987-02012 but online wiring diagrams indicate that it is taking a signal from the ECU - which I assume is for the timing of the fuel primer. Reckon I'll order me a Gastech.

Thanks, that looks to be at least half the price of the Revolution Electronics tachometer triggered controller I was looking at.

I'm gradually converting a KE55 to run a 2TGEU engine with twin Solex carburettors. The 2TGEU does not come with a mechanical fuel pump though I imagine a 2T one would do. But I'm planning to drill a crankcase breather/baffle for the PCV system through the mechanical pump block off plate as the 2TGEU block is blanked off where the 2TG crankcase breather would sit. So I expect to use an inexpensive Facet style low pressure electric fuel pump and have been looking into fuel cutoff safety switch options and there would appear to be (at least) three different types. Which type have people had experience with and recommend? - An oil pressure switch turns off the fuel pump when the engine's oil pressure drops, but can be wired to prime the pump when the key turns to the START position. - A tachometer/coil triggered controller that kills the pump when there is no tach signal, but a microprocessor primes the pump for three seconds when the key is turned to IGN. Do LPG systems use a similar setup? - An inertia activated cutoff switch that disconnects the power to the pump with a big enough tap (not recommended for rallying!). - A combination of two or more types of safety switch. - Stick with a mechanical pump.. I'm curious to know what do others use?

Those Hurricane wheels will be absolutely fine. Grab them! They are a little trickier to refurbish/polish because of all the fins, but they will look great.

I'm sure some generic Weber parts could be adapted, but Rodger here makes a specific cable kit. http://www.rmcarburetors.net/Cable%20and%20Carburetor%20kits.htm I am yet to cross that bridge on my project, but I have purchased rebuilt kits from him previously.

Oh sure they're around. There was a pair for $40 on eBay the other week but they were interstate and I'm a tight arse. Actually I think the auction is still going. If you're spending the kind of money to consider new wheels, have you looked into Jaoanese auctions and sellers of old school wheels? I've seen classic modestly sized 4x110 wheels offered on Facebook groups for as "little" as $500 delivered worldwide from Japan. They just need a strip, polish and paint.

They look nicely similar to the old TA22 Celica GT / TE37 Levin/ TE72 T18 Corolla factory steel wheels that I lust after (but do not own, just saying, in case anyone has some..) A 7" rim with a -7 offset would have a 3.25" backspace which would be an easy fit under a KE30 (a KE30 can take 4" backspace no trouble) - but sorry to say I have no experience of KE20s. Someone will have! Having said that, your clear backspace is measurable with the wheel off using a set square & ruler. Just be sure to allow extra for the lip of the rim, and a bit more for the bulge of the tyre unless you intend to overstretch them (IMO don't haha) Shame about the PCD but I do like the wheel!

For that money, yes you could probably reasonably expect to get the whole lot done to a standard without doing any work yourself. In that case I reckon you should drive your car around to a few paint shops and see what they suggest. Hold your cards close to your chest (i.e. don't tell them you'd spend $4500) and get a few quotes. Is the car worth it? Remember that even after spending all that money on paint it won't drive any better. You could paint it yourself for a little over a tenth of that money. But of course the result probably wouldn't be as good. And you need the weather-proof space to do it for 1,2,6 up to 12 months...

How is the carb? It sounds like a maladjusted or inoperative accelerator pump circuit leaning the engine out.

What is your budget for the body work and respray? That will often be the main determinant in figuring out the best way to proceed. Refinishing a car is 95% prep work and 5% painting. So like anything in this country that typically involves tradesmen, labour is expensive - but neither is it rocket science if you're willing to have a crack yourself.

Fitted the rest.. I had to "oversize" a couple of holes but meh - no one will ever see it.

That looks incredibly easy. I've ordered one.

Looks fantastic off the gun!

Have you checked out http://www.brdracing.com ? I get most of my parts from these places! http://www.amayama.com http://www.ebay.com

Oxley? Brendale.. I always get those two confused.

Any naturally aspirated engine will benefit from; an increase in compression (whether by changing pistons or shaving the head, or both) , increased camshaft duration and lift, improved carburettion (or injection) and a freer flowing exhaust. How much you gain is directly proportional to how much you spend. All of those things need to be considered in conjunction with each other.

Toyodiy lists part numbers to suit a KE55 hardtop 5 speed 31126-10030 (06/1976 - 02/1979) 31126-12040 (03/1979 - 06/1981) Amayama lists both as "upon availability", though Phils Rotarys list their "KE70 fork release rubber" as part number 31126-12040 so that may well suit a 5 speed. http://www.ebay.com....=item1e9e906b22 I went out one day last year and purchased one to suit a 4 speed and Phil did ask me at the time if it was for a 4 or 5 speed - so I assumed he has both!

^ Wait - that website lists billet crankshafts for K engines? And IDF Weber manifolds?..

Wow that would've been scary. Thank goodness you missed all the trees.

It all came up not too bad at all. Just little nicks and scratches that should come out with a rub back now but there's maybe half a dozen dimple spots - around 1 per panel - that need a light skim over. This morning I've done a loose first test fit of a flare. The gasket popped out at the back but I don't want to tighten up the rear nyloc nut just yet. It works! So I'll crack on with the others.

The incredible progress you're making with this project gives me the motivation to keep going on my own, while simultaneously making me feel anxious about the lack thereof!