Mechanical Sympathy

Bummer indeed. My $150 eBay long motor had been sitting for an undetermined number of years before I got it. While the seller offered no guarantees, he did say that it came from a pretty flash looking Celica and was only pulled to go SR20, and that he had indeed intended to use it but just never got around to it. For $150 I didn't push him on more details. I purchased the compression gauge specifically for this engine so I haven't tested it on a good runner. Certainly the results mirror the plugs, in that #1 seems to be the worst. I had to wind in 20 degrees advance to get the engine to move the car without bogging down. At first I thought it was the Webers but it was suggested to me that indicated a weak motor. On second thoughts, it probably hasn't deteriorated - moreso I've just leaned out the carbs and retarded the ignition back to normal settings. I'm using BP5EY plugs. The only other thing I hadn't tried was maybe a different range, but the (admittedly cool) compression test probably told me that was pointless? I'd love for it to come good... I think I'll just pull it.

Kind gentlemen! Update time - I'd love to go for a cruise! I have issues. While I was happy when it fired in the shed, idled, revved (with some apparent tuning issues), it became obvious on its maiden voyage out of the shed under it's own power that something wasn't right. I checked the plugs and Lo and behold; Low compression on number 1. Actually low on all 4 1. 85 psi 2. 90 3. 100 4. 105 This was a luke warm test as compression seems to have deteriorated since the first fire and now it's hard to start at all. The good news is everything is set up to plug and play now, and my Weber tuning skills are probably OK afterall. I'll yank it out this weekend and have a reputable builder in mind to do a re-ring/re-bearing - nothing fancy. Oh the trials and tribulations! Thanks for your interest. It spurs me on. For so long I've put off house renos because I only wanted one project at a time, but I really can do both haha. You can see my shiny new roof above yay.

Looks like a beaut John!

Haha I'm keen for a blast up Mt. Nebo!

After all this time and anticipation, I can't believe it's actually a goer. Once I had everything hooked up and turned it over it became obvious that the battery earth lead needed a clean up where it attached to the body. Then it cranked swiftly and fired then died. I plumbed a couple of vacuum hoses and now it starts immediately when I wave a key at it and settles down to a lopey idle. Those Webers work straight out of the box! I'll tie up a few loose ends and coolant leaks, final bleed the brakes then out for a lap - I mean rego. Rego first.

I've also just done this tacho/backlight mod. SAAS make a nice little black 8000 rpm tacho that looks as near damnit oem as I'd like it to, and has a nice blue glow that matches the LED back lights. I skimped on replacing the indicators/high beam signals, as I was worried they'd be too bright at night.

Pretty much lubed, plumbed and primed now. I've left wiring up the fuel pump, igniter and thermo fan until last. Mainly it was the igniter I was putting off thinking about, but now I've googled and hopefully sorted. I'll mount a Bosch BIM024 igniter on a decent heat sink and bust out the soldering iron. Then maybe I'll stick a key in it this March. An airbox/filter/s and a PCV system would be needed but can wait until after a few shed revs first!

Nice looking car! Unless you're really committed to a full resto, I'd be inclined to leave it as is!

I do so love a 2TG(EU) project. Maybe I'm biased. Hayden just thinking out loud - have you run a flexible line at all between your clutch master and slave? I can't quite see in your photo. If not, the engine will move when running and ultimately fatigue the hard line. I used a TA22 flexible line to the slave, and then ran a short hard line to the master via a cleat bolted to the firewall with two circlips on the flexible line so as to disallow movement.

Damn that's conclusive.

Thanks gents. P-clip sounds like a great idea. Speaking of P-clips I think I'm going to have to undo a few and drop out the rear hard line. Need to shorten and bend the end to route from the KE30 proportioning valve I had a crack at doing it in situ but there's too much engine in the way for my tool. My high school motor mechanics teacher would've done it by hand but I'd kink it for sure.

And then I added some centre-cap bling to my 10 spoke Superlites to tart them up a bit;

Fitting a new front gearbox seal to a K50 will be a challenge, as the gearbox has to be deconstructed to get at it i.e. it is fitted from the inside, not under a front cover like say a T50. This makes it uneconomical for all but the most hardened Corolla nut. For the price of getting a shop to fit it, you might be better off finding one that isn't leaking, or even finding a K-T bellhousing. However www.amayama.com will have them. Edit, unless you mean engine main seals. In which case Amayama, or Repco et al.

Still plugging away and getting quite close now I hope. I've reconditioned the brakes, front and rear, all hoses and hydraulics. Converting to a KE30 master meant finding a KE30 proportioning valve and plumbing some hard lines (surprisingly satisfying) to suit, and to be clear of the carbs - which I had put off for aaaages. Once I have pedal pressure I'll finish installing carbs. Of course I really hate that the photo uploader rotates my photos.

You could potentially locate a passenger side mirror from left hand drive markets such as the Phillipines. Worth noting that there were (at least) two different mirrors - long and short stem.

Yes it was a very helpful thread before the links broke. I used it also! However given the age of the thread and the dropbox used I'd say you're out of luck. Shame though.

Ooh Triumph wheels? ADM KE55 front, looks good.

Aha, you've caught me out! It's currently serving time as a mobile grass killer but I really need to do something about that. A 6x9 shed has got to have room for more than one car - I just can't seem to make the space and still have room for man-caving. It might be time to pack up the little fellas' slot car set, or screw it down onto the collapsible-legs table so I can stand it against the wall when not in use. This is such a great little car to drive (around the yard) that I just have to do something with it. Fix some dents and respray a couple of panels and it will be perfectly acceptable for club rego. I also feel compelled to paint the house and build a deck though.. Projects and time! bah This weekend I'll get it in the shed. You've stirred my motivation!

Thanks mate! I had the technology just not the nerve (it was well after beer o'clock). I am quite certain a tungsten tip will slice through it like butter, and with my hands very likely to write a couple of big "S" or "J" letters across the top when it bites. Was feeling a bit miffed I have to carve into the shiny goodness so soon, but that tab really is as useless as a nipple on a singlet to me. Consider that warranty voided haha.

I procured some 40mm DCOE Webers and over the weekend started setting them up on the factory 2TG manifold. First task was to fit some extended studs, as the factory ones are too short with the addition of the soft mounts. Masters sell M8x50x1.25 studs for $3.50 each. The 2TG manifold has the carbs quite close together so I had to grind back a tab on the linkage that actuates the second carburettor. I am using an LP1000 carb mounted linkage kit. However an unanticipated consequence of the close carburettor spacing is that the ball of the linkage shaft fouls on this unused tab halfway through the down stroke, on the side of the front carb. I'll need to file it back.. but it's new!!! I'm not sure I want to!!! By this point I'd had my three beers so decided not to do any filing and look at it again later in the week with a clear head.

Cheers Mat, well met! All up it was a good morning down at the Power Parts store. Good luck, I'm sure you'll iron out the bugs eventually.

I think it was the same as my sedan sticker anyway..

Ahhhh! I did have, and considered taking/thought I had taken a photo of it when I was prepping the boot. Bugger I really did feel it was worth preserving at the time. Shoulda coulda woulda. I'll see if there's anything in the owner's booklet.

Haha really? I do remember looking at it at the time. Correct me if I'm wrong, but as I ran back and forward between cross members comparing them it didn't look very different. I was looking for obvious signs of welding. Coupled with a set of butchered TA22 mounts that were on the long motor, I assumed they'd done the usual crooked/twisted install on a KE crossmember. At that point I approached KE Conversions to make 2T mounts even though nobody was asking for them (cause the Internet declared Celica mounts work bro). He didn't take any convincing though as it was already on his list. I should clarify - I'm very happy with how the motor sits in the bay, just the tailshaft concerned me. One remaining niggle though is the exhaust was made to suit the shorter tailshaft arrangement, and so therefore is straining to sit an inch further forward on its mounts. I might fit some longer mounting rubbers, or when I'm up and running get a flange fitted to the exhaust to make it slightly longer. So I need new uni's! New brake hoses arrived. You only need to burst one, to never trust old ones again!

Haha! I can't believe I didn't check that. I used the tailshaft that I got from a wrecked 2TG converted KE, because it's universal joints were so much better. Evidently it was shortened to suit however they mounted it in the earlier conversion.