kryton brown

i'm assuming that the regulator is an re60 type which means it has a two pin plug on it like a fuel injector.. the terminals are marked L and S for light and sense.. just hook your warning light wire up to the L teminal and the S to battery positive. if you don't hook up the sense terminal to battery voltage it will overcharge.. you can buy a genuine bosh part which comes with a new plug, rubber boot and terminals for a couple of bucks if you want to make it look pretty! Ashdowns, burson's or repco should stock them.. hope that helps

Use these calculations to work out pulley sizes.. When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised. The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection. To choose a setup you need to know :- 1. Engine capacity 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using. 3. Boost level desired I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14. 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62 CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio) Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi. if using an SC12 just substitute 1.2litres/minute instead of the 1.5litres/minute for SC14.. if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42litres/min! and even more so use the exact displacement of your engine eg. 3T-c is 1770cc.. Hope this helps.

it comes on because it earths itself through all the other ignition globes and components.. because of the voltage difference.. sounds weird but thats what happens.. like if you have a bad earth at your tail lighs, they might still work but will do all strange things when you brake or indicate..

To check the warning light just earth the warning light wire somewhere with the ignition on and it should light up.. with those denso internal reg alternators, they usually have a 3 pin plug with terminals marked IG, L, and S. the warning light is fed +12v from the ignition switch and the other side goes to the L terminal.. now the IG terminal needs an ignition supply which you can pick up from your old regulator wiring, and the S terminal has to have constant +12v for sensing.. this you can loop back to the bain batt. terminal on the alternator.. the alternator needs all these wires connected to turn the regulator on, if you do this and still no light, the alternator is faulty.. hope this helps..

*chuckles* well said..

Sorry i don't have any info but i'm keen to hear anyones ideas. i have been thinking about the rear springs in my ke30 for a while and don't know what direction to go in..

You can go blow through ok as long as you can seal where the fuel line and throttle cable exit the box and like ^ he said, you use a rising rate fuel reg..

i've had my ke30 somewhere over 160, the numbers ran out and the needle was pointing straight down.. it's got a 3T-c and 5 speed and weber from 2litre cortina..

although while i'm here, the crakling exhaust is usually from an air leak into the exhaut pipe.. you get hot unburnt fuel leaving the cylinder with the exhaust gasses, not much, but enough to ignite again when air is sucked in through a hole..

oops.. i stuffed that up.. disregard the last post.. haha

usually that sweet sweet noise only comes from double overhead cam engines.. i don't think you will replicate it from a 3k.. unfortunately

The T-18 had a low fuel warning light.. cas that have then just have a little switch inside the tank that is attached to the sender unit, when the fuel gets below a certain point it brings the light on. if you found a similar corolla with the same tank but with a low fuel switch you only need to measure the resistane of the two senders, even tho they might look different they are probably the same..

i pulled all the crap off my 3t and used a weber carby from a 2 litre cortina.. very basic carby.. i had to make an adapter plate but thats no big drama.. i let the jetting as standad, was a little rich but went like a cut cat..