kryton brown

Yes. You can just connect the sense terminal to the battery + terminal on the alt. By connecting the sence terminal to the actual battery though, the alternator can maintain the battery at the regulator set point (overcoming any losses between alternator and battery).

This is normal. 0volts from the distributor indicates that the points are closed, and 12volts at the coil is what you should see with the distributor disconnected as it is an open circuit. You see a spark when you connect the two because you are effectively providing the electricity supplied to the coil with a path to ground. This is all normal.

This is a modern fusible link. They come in a few shapes and sizes for different applications. You can't buy the old style fusible link wire anymore, unless someone has some old stock. Apparently they don't make it anymore (According to my Auto Elec parts wholesaler).

Are you planning on driving this thing backwards? :hmm: Try putting a thicker bar in the front first and see how the handling feels, then if you think you need it you can upgrade the back (smaller bar than the front though).

Hold the rotor in a vice, undo the 24mm nut off the rotor shaft and remove pulley and fan. Then, either press the rotor out through the bearing with a press or, hold the rotor by the slip ring end, with rotor between a vice's loose jaws and the end plate resting against the side of the jaws, and belt the rotor out through the bearing using a soft faced mallet, thus allowing access to the screws in the retaining plate. The second method takes a bit of practice but is extremely effective if there is no access to a press. If it won't budge, it may need a few hours soak with some wd40 or similar. Good luck.

If that doesn't work, try this. If you look at the link, about 3/4 of way down the page, it lists the 18 pin socket pins. Pin 13 (white wire) is the engine speed signal. Connect this to your Tacho signal input on your dash. Check first that your ECU looks like the one shown.. and just do a test first to see if it will work before wiring it up all pro. http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/ECU%20Japan%20AE86%204A-GE.htm cheers.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This is another site that desribes similar methods to the one above. Running an engine in under load is not a crazy concept.

Older cars can get a build up of waxy deposits on the gears and synchros, stopping them from moving freely and causing clashing. Try putting some Redline MTL G/Box oil in for a while, it is good at disolving those waxes, if it's not completely shagged you should see a reduction in clashing in a couple of weeks. I put some in an AE95 i used to have and it worked beautifully. After i put the Redline oil in, the more i drove it the better it got. OR, it could just be shagged.. If you can't afford aother box or a rebuild then it's worth a shot, it's expensive oil but cheaper than a new box. (you can buy Redline oil at Burson)

I don't know if you have tried them but there is a crowd called Automotive Service Solutions which i have found to be good for random stuff EFI related. They have branches in most states i think. http://www.efi.com.au

It sounds like you've lost the ignition supply to your dash. Check your fuses, usually the one labled 'meter' goes to your dash. Otherwise when you were wigglin' wires, you disloged one from the dash.

The single terminal alternator has an internal regulator. The three pin one you have fitted is an external regulator type alternator. To use it you will need to find, or buy the regulator to suit said alternator and have it wired up properly. You would be better off sticking with the bosch alternator that was on it and having it repaired.

As said above, don't use the 13T head. They arent any good. Get yourself a 3T hemi head.

There are a number of things that control your air conditioning. Firstly, you have to have the heater fan switch on. If one of the speeds doesn't work it will either only work on the speeds that do go or only on High speed. Next is your A/C fuse, it supplies power to the A/C amplifier, A/C switch and A/C clutch and so on. Then there is a dual pressure switch, which is usually located on your receiver/drier (it's a tubular steel thing with two small pipes coming out of it, after the outlet of the condenser) this switch will have two pins, check it has power both sides with engine running and fan and A/C switch on. If power on one side only then it's either out of refrigerant or switch buggered. Although pressure switches rarely fail! If all this is ok, find the A/C clutch relay and with fan and A/C turned on check that the relay has a power supply to it (seperate fuse) and power coming out. If your not sure if it is on or not just pull it out and plug it in slowly and you'll hear it click. From the relay the wire goes directly to the clutch and goes to earth through the body or the compressor. hope this helps.. Ian

Well the KE30 and KE70 dash are the same width, i measured one the other day. I'm not sure how much modification is required.. you would probably just need to get hold of one and have a crack at it. I'm looking at doing something similar to my KE30 but fit a KE70 or T-18 dash.

I just checked some 3T-c ones i have.. overall length is: EX-215mm IN-170mm